A3 8p creeking steering - any ideas?

guysy

Registered User
Hi,

Warmer weather etc my steering has developed an annoying creak, I have a double issue I think, the steering is creaking stationary although less noticeable when driving.

I also have what seems to be a left side CV joint issue which I think has come about after changing the front wheel bearing that side (flopping the CV about may have disturbed something?)

please see attached video for noise some of it is brakes squeaking as I'm on a sloped drive but the issue is there.

Recent work: 2 new front drop links (rubber bushes perished), outer track rods less than one year, lower ball joints changed (left side had to remove control arm completely to cut seized threads off) could this be an alignment issue ?

Thanks

 

guysy

Registered User
I have narrowed it down to top mounts, having someone turn the wheel slowly left to right I can see the spring vibrating and juddering.

Am I right after googling that there is a top mount and then a bearing ?

Does anyone have any part numbers please? or advise if I should change just the bearing or the top mount as well?

Thanks
 

samisnake

Registered User
I have narrowed it down to top mounts, having someone turn the wheel slowly left to right I can see the spring vibrating and juddering.

Am I right after googling that there is a top mount and then a bearing ?

Does anyone have any part numbers please? or advise if I should change just the bearing or the top mount as well?

Thanks

top mount bearing on mine disintigrated a couple years ago, exact same symptoms. check that the spring hasnt snapped at the bottom.

part numbers
bearing 1K0412249B
top mount 1K0412331B

prices from audi for those are £21.36 each for the bearings, and £43.12 each for the top mounts.
i went with a set from skf
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/skf/1363452

the top mount itself isnt that big of a deal, its just a piece of hard rubber with some nuts fixed in. on one of mine, the nut had come loose, meaning the old bolt had to be cut away. so while its all apart, its worth changing.
i personally would go for either skf, lemforder or fag bearings/kits. lemforder use fag bearings in their kits iirc, but theyre pretty much used by vag for most of the suspension components. skf and fag are 2 of the biggest bearing manufacturers out there, so id recommend either of them.
 
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guysy

Registered User
top mount bearing on mine disintigrated a couple years ago, exact same symptoms. check that the spring hasnt snapped at the bottom.

part numbers
bearing 1K0412249B
top mount 1K0412331B

prices from audi for those are £21.36 each for the bearings, and £43.12 each for the top mounts.
i went with a set from skf
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/skf/1363452

the top mount itself isnt that big of a deal, its just a piece of hard rubber with some nuts fixed in. on one of mine, the nut had come loose, meaning the old bolt had to be cut away. so while its all apart, its worth changing.
i personally would go for either skf, lemforder or fag bearings/kits. lemforder use fag bearings in their kits iirc, but theyre pretty much used by vag for most of the suspension components. skf and fag are 2 of the biggest bearing manufacturers out there, so id recommend either of them.

Thank you for the reply, and the part no's.

Good info cheers I will get hunting for the new parts, will be changing the left side outer CV joint as well by the sounds of my turning full lock right!
 

guysy

Registered User
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/cv-joint-rant.385613/

Also had the same issue from the left cv joint. Worked out better in my case to change the whole driveshaft, as the only joints for my car were **** brands or a really expensive dealer visit.

Thanks I will look into this, I cant rule it out yet as the CV joint but I was testing the noise today and weirdly I wont hold my breath but the creaking at full lock feels like it could be top mount related and possibly top mounts alone possibly lower control arm (not CV related at all - I will find out). I am going to change the top mounts first and see what happens (just thinking out loud).

There is no clicking i.e. CV related noises, but the steering left to right is juddering and creating a noise full lock.. I will report back once changed.

Thanks
 

samisnake

Registered User
outer cv joint gone will make a repetitive click click noise when moving with the wheel on full lock. if it makes the noise while stationary, it wont be the cv.

the top mount bearing gone will cause the spring to twist and groan.
on mine the spring had snapped, so when i went near full lock, the spring would jump on the shock and cause a loud banging noise as it bounced off nearby metal.

i would definitely get the alignment done after all this work. mine was driving sideways like a crab till i had it tracked
 

guysy

Registered User
outer cv joint gone will make a repetitive click click noise when moving with the wheel on full lock. if it makes the noise while stationary, it wont be the cv.

the top mount bearing gone will cause the spring to twist and groan.
on mine the spring had snapped, so when i went near full lock, the spring would jump on the shock and cause a loud banging noise as it bounced off nearby metal.

i would definitely get the alignment done after all this work. mine was driving sideways like a crab till i had it tracked

Yeah definitely, I am lacking the clicking I've changed a few CV's on different cars over the years, but no expert on certain noises, its definitely a bushing noise, I have new top mounts arrived so I will get those swapped out soon and report back.

Full lock right I kept testing for noise and even when just stopped i.e no CV movement there was just one bushing groan at the end so its either me disturbing the lower control arm when I had the lower ball joint bolts seized cut off or the top mounts. Hoping the top mounts cure it!.

Cheers
 

Badger-a-s

Registered User
Mine is exactly the same, creaking on lock when slow or stationary.
How do I check what this is? Shine a torch in the arch while someone goes lock to lock?
Cheers.
 

guysy

Registered User
Mine is exactly the same, creaking on lock when slow or stationary.
How do I check what this is? Shine a torch in the arch while someone goes lock to lock?
Cheers.

I had someone turn the wheel slowly left to right I put a torch in the wheel arch and I could see the offside spring stepping and juddering not moving freely, the nearside is the worst noise for me, hopefully Ill get them changed as soon as poss and report back.
 

guysy

Registered User
Definitely keep the thread updated with how you get on.

Which top mounts and bearings did you go for in the end

I went for febi, wanted SKF but I've used febi a few times before with good results quality wise, parts are in my garage they seem of decent quality so fingers crossed.
 

guysy

Registered User
So to update, I tackled both top mounts and the right side lower ball joint (I did the near side a few months ago and had murders with rounded threads- luckily the drivers side lower 3 bolts came straight off, even though I found it hard to split the joint with my thin jawed splitter) anyway...

Lower ball joint off each side and shock end drop link bolt off > not easy but with a combination of tapping the shock out with vibration, and the jacking up of wood through the top drop link hole and the top of the wood resting on the lower spring mount with a jack at the bottom (effectively jacking the whole strut up slowly) eventually I had both sides done.

Both bearings fell apart in my hands. I gave the shocks a clean up and a spray of black paint and the noise is gone.

I’d sat there is very slight creak to the full lock left and right but I’d say lower control arms are at fault for that and I’ll change at some point.

I made my own special tool which you can buy to spread the shock knuckle - whilst it worked it did ping off a few times when I could have done without it.

6ed5eb5cb27834296763d165ee489671.jpg

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Not much to see other than I bought a long set of Allen sockets to go into the threaded strut recess to hold it (7mm) and had a 13/16th deep socket (21mm) modified so I could slide the Allen through it and use large adjustable grips to undo the nut.

And this did cure my problem noise of a bad grinding when turning full lock right.
 
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