Wow, this thread is great...good work on the project. I am rather excited to see the dyno'd engine!
The CF interior bits are skinned original parts, why do you ask? Are you going to do the same?
Done so mate, been working on them the last month. Just wondered if somebody had actually done moulds etc as i just skinned my parts also.
Doing some more parts soon.
Good work! Its not easy though is it! But practice makes perfect. The one thing that I found helps more than anything is the temperature your working in, if its cold or humid then your ********. Have you noticed any milky patches in your finish?
Not easy at all mate, very time consuming also but i love the stuff!
True with the temp also, had been doin mine in the garage there but with it being so cold i had to do some of it in the house.
Managed to complete everything without any milky patches, i found using a hairdryer after each application of topcoat helps to clear the small air bubbles which cause the milky appearance. Also, i tend to apply one or two more topcoats than is advised, this gives more material to rub down at the end to flat parts out and more chance of sanding away any air trapped near the surface. Get some more pics up of your other stuff, looks good. Mine are in the thread in the project room if u want a butchers!:thumbsup:
Very time consuming indeed! All that flatting back will eventually make you insane.
The milky appearance is caused by the excessive moisture in your working environment which reacts with the air and the epoxy obviously its known widely as an amine blush, proper nightmare really. I made a small oven out of a cardboard box with a single 60 watt bulb in it, insulated under some blankets (sounds dangerous I know) but this works a treat, leave everything to cure in there and jobs a good'an. I will be sure to check out your progress in your thread and i will post up some pic's of some of the stuff I've done later, need to clean the car! I quickly moved away from skinning because of all the sanding, working from moulds is the way forward i think as the carbon looks so different out of a mould. I intend to re-do the parts I've done at some point by making moulds for everything. Which epoxy system do you use?
Well grab those proper light bulbs while you can! Someone somewhere decided to stop making them. They don't seem to last that long either and go a bit brittle after getting pretty hot so watch those fingers! Next your gonna want a vac pump and some moulds! Checked your thread out, shits looking good fella.:thumbsup:
I better get my finger out!
Diagram for which bit?
All the sections are seperatly shown in ELSAWin
You got the part numbers of the uprights, i can check for you. I am sure there is one 82mm one, but will check for 100%. As i had an odd 75mm one on my old car ???
The cams can be removed easily enough without the tensioner thingy, refitting won't be so easy without it.
Give jason at AllGermanParts a call.
Spot on bloke and has sorted me out a few times.
There are only two bearings 75mm and 82mm, you need the larger ones.
4B0498625A
wheel bearing with mounting parts
82MM / AJL,APR,AQD, ATX,APZ,ARJ, APS,AFB,AKN, AGB,ATJ,AMX, AZB
"Thoughts" if your car was originally a TQS it will have been equiped with the larger bearing which means your TQS shafts will be fine to use with the S4 uprights, direct fit !!!