2.5 TDI issues

[glottis]

Hi everyone,

I am new to this forum, as I became a "happy user" of a 2000 A4 2.5 TDI Quattro (automatic) 'AKN' which has been introduced to my life by my new girlfriend. The car has all sorts of issues, some of which we have fixed but it's still a long way to go. I've been messing around the forums and found lots of possible solutions to the problems we have with the car, but thought i would start my own thread on the major forums out there, give a shout out/bore you to hell and see what happens(-:
To start with, the car has been parking for a year due to engine failure. When I took the baby home, and started her up, a couple of cylinders actually fired up, but it sounded like rolling stones in there and smoked like crazy. Upon inspecting I saw major mess in the camshaft department. Ordered the camshaft set (lifters, seals, etc.), timing belts, tensioners, fuel/air filters, water pump and had a mechanic do his magic.
Compression was tested by the mechanic and all cylinders are around 26-28 bars, however one has only 24 bars. I don't know if this was tested cold or hot. Now after this long intro, here are my current symptoms.

Issue number one: Car starts fine. There is/was some air issues in the fueling but the car always started up sooner or later. Right after start white smoke starts pouring out of the exhaust and engine is ticking pretty loudly, also shaking as if on cylinder is not running. Smoke is thick and smells diesel. Water levels do not drop. Oil levels do drop a bit, but there are oil leaks here and there.
As the car starts to warm the smoking issue stops, and engine sounds perfect and shaking stops also. Power is great as well.

Issue number two: When i drive the car with engine warmed up, at steady (only!) speeds, there is a minor shaking/vibration present. Not the wheel it's like if the engine was shaking. I would guess that the fueling is not constant. No similar issues when acceleration or deceleration.

Issue number three: I see oil dripping under the turbo where the oil pipe is attached. I have checked the intercoolers and they are dry.

Issue number four: The little fuel pipes connecting the injectors together seems to be losing fuel.
Things I gathered from this and other forums as possible causes (except for the oil leaks):

Water temp sensor.
Mass air sensor.
Timing is off.
Faulty injector(s).
Bent rod.
Low compression.
Faulty glow plug(s).
Air in fuel system.
Faulty turbo.
Faulty ECU.
Faulty fuel pump.
EGR.

I know that I need the vag-com stuff to start with; it’s on its way. The mechanic said he checked the car with vag-com and found all in order, but I don't trust mechanics.
Is there some easy tests to rule out some of these from the list (without the vag-com), like unplugging stuff, ohm/voltage measuring?

Any other thoughts and suggestions on the possible causes and fixing?

Thanks in advance,
Peter

 

[PAULF]

Unfortunately with these cars, you need VagCom (now VCDS)

You are as well buying a genuine lead now, as if you need to work on it, you'll probably want one later.

So, get some form of VCDS (or get somebody from the map to help)and scan the car, clear all the codes, and run it for a bit.
Scan it again and check the pump timing and tell us the results.

You need to sort the return pipe leaks - try rejuvenating or replacing the copper washers and the rubber hose.
The turbo sounds like a seal - probably both done when your cams were done

 

[glottis]

Thanks!

It seems that i wil have to wait for the VCDS to arrive than. Until than i can work on the fuel/oil leak problems.
Will post results as soon as i can.

Cheers.

 

[spartacus 68]

Agree with PAULF. You can spend a small fortune in chasing and replacing faults, however until you've had codes read, you're pi**ing in the wind so-to-speak.

Erratic idle, smoke and vibration all point towards timing being out. I'm assuming the mechanic had the right locking tools when attempting this job?

Diesel return pipes deteriorate with age. Straight forward job, and pipes can be cut to size to fit, etc, (could be your source of air in system).

Regards glow plugs. I would like to clean mine and to check them (144k) however and herein lies the danger... if it breaks when removing, then you're looking at removing head to drill out, etc. if you're a gambling man, then by all means go for it. Spray with Duck Oil Penetrating Release a few days before attempting the job, and get the car to operating temperature first.

Injectors? Could be faulty, or possible carbon build up. Run a can of Forte diesel conditioner through it (straight into fuel filter) and drive hard in 2nd and 3rd gear. Will smoke initially and then clear. Renew fuel filter afterwards and top it up with fresh diesel before installing. Check air filter and renew if in any doubt about condition. Any indication of advisories or MOT fails on emissions?

Keep us posted on the outcome of the scan.

 

[glottis]

Will do them tests via VCDS first, it hasn't arrived yet Thanks for the warning about the glowplugs, i wont touch tem as of now than.
I did run some injector cleaners (STP) through the fuel tank, is that sufficient?

cheers,
Peter