anti-lift is used on the tt/a3 to add front caster, which increases steering self-centre, and adds more negative camber on turns, which helps front end grip and therefore reduces understeer.
widening the front track (relative to rear) and fitting a stiffer rear arb or stiffer rear springs also...
dont waste your money on anything like an air filter or exhaust - they dont add anything at all.
if you go down the hybrid turbo route, then decatting the factory downpipe is almost free and helps to improve the turbo spool-up, and its a lot cheaper than any type of aftermarket cat or exhaust...
did mine a3 pd140 to 230-240hp on a dsg box - hybrid turbo, decat downpipe
dont need panel filter, uprated injectors, air filter or uprated intercooler for this
you will need a clutch after a while unless you have a dsg box, but the dsg would benefit from a remap as well to up the torque limiter
wider track or wider tyres at the back is going to create more understeer as well so maybe not the best idea - the rs3 has wider front tyres for a reason
if the errors come back once cleared, then there may be a real problem - the haldex valve error is a common problem - the pressure sensor fails and the car drives in 2wd mode instead of 4wd - a new pressure sensor is about £45
its useful to check that the paper mot certs you may have are not faked - the online version is what was recorded at the time of the mot
have you checked with a dealer to go through their history record as well? - make sure that their records match the paper service book as these are often...
the mileage is stored in the cluster and ecu (and dsg gearbox) but both can be modified easily and dsg mileage can be reset - the combined service/mot histories shows what has been done in previous 6 years so i guess you should have 120k plus whatever happened in the last 2 years
not good - the haldex system is about 5% closed even under cruising conditions, more when you are pressing on. if there is a difference between front and rear rolling radius then the haldex clutch has to be slipping to accommodate this - dont do it unless you can be sure the front and rear...
I would stick to oem except for the front bottom arms where you can use polybushes to increase the caster (superpro) this increases the self- centering and dynamic camber on turns, which tends to improve the steering feel, reduce understeering by increasing front end grip and reduces the audi...
mileage is stored in the cluster, an approximation in the ecu and in some cars the gateway and the dsg box
it can be directly changed in the edc15/edc 16 ecu and cluster, and the gateway and dsg mileage can be reset to 0 easily
some of the very latest cars are storing the distance to service in...
theres no advantage to going to 245/35/18 over 225, and if you get et45 or lesss offset wheels then 245 tyres may catch at the rear.
the 225 width is more than enough, there are lots of choice and they are cheaper - its a win-win
if you change wheels then an et45 will fill the arches nicely at...
it depends if there is an ecu update/upgrade from audi for your particular model - these are pretty rare to be honest, but if audi flash your ecu then yes you will lose your remap
when the car goes in, get them to write on the job sheet that they must contact you before ANY software updates...
this hardware/software is a pig to use - there is no help coding and no long coder section so you have to know exactly what you are doing.
if you really only want the vcds recoding/error checking then you should look at getting vcds - preferrably a legit one too :-)
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