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The ASV is right behind the inlet for the EGR and some oil and soot tends to accumulate around there gumming up the flap in the valve, or sometimes the motors do go bad with age (but rarely). It's fairly easy to clean if it happens again and you're that way inclined .

600-650 is about right when it's hot. They tend to idle at 800 when cold. On a CCWA (or any TDI) a P0638 will be for your anti shudder valve. If it's sticking it'll restrict the intake and cause the engine to die. But it does a full sweep every key cycle so would explain why it fired up fine after.

The bottom lip trim slips over the top of a support in the bumper, it's held on by 3 push pins (underneath) and four torx screws (from the back, accessible after removing the undertray). The grey part can then be slid off forwards.

Yeah it's 8k0807899.

That piece (the three plastic drop downs) can be bought separately to the bumper and just screws in with 6 screws.

Check the plastic levelling sensor arm attached to the bottom wishbone on the passenger side. It can break or unscrew leaving the headlights thinking the car is fully loaded. (This is based on the fact the lights used to be aligned further ahead of the car, the system could be fine just the...

They're actually really simple to do. Just be careful pulling the door cards off as they're easy to break, the proper trim popper tool really helps. Get some new clips just incase you break a couple. Once you're inside its a couple of screws a wire connector and the door pull, pretty easy.

None of the subframe bolts are stretch bolts, they should be threaded all the way. If you already have them I'd be tempted to put them in. You'll probably be charged a restocking fee when returning them.

There are different reasons for the bolts being "Replace and renew". Some actually are stretch bolts so really do need to be replaced for example the engine mounts. I know of very few indys that replace them and you do occasionally hear about engines falling. Other bolts (subframe) aren't...

Just use the audi emissions checker, it'll give you the vin of any Audi from the reg. https://www.audi.co.uk/owners-area/emissions.html Click check your car

3.0 CCWA I think removal is probably the way to go but if you could keep them for not much more it'd be worth it

Having some trouble with my swirl flaps now and looking at refurbing the manifolds I've heard that the quality of some of the kits available isn't great, but now you can get a set of refurbished inlet manifolds for ~£160 Has anyone got any experience of these? Are they any good? The last...

The part number for the sound insulator on its own is 8K0 863 829 The suffix for your car should be E but suffix N will also fit.

Is "this" the firewall bowl that covers the exhaust? Do you want the whole piece? Just the padding? What year is your S4?

Like Chez says the contacts and motor brushes get dirty and the whole mechanism jams up. They're pretty simple to take apart, clean, and put back together for a free fix. TPS sell the mechs for £120 ish + VAT or you can get copies very cheaply on eBay but they aren't always up to spec There...

Vag dpf doesnt support any 3.0 TDIs

Carista can also do it with the paid for version. On some cars you can reset the oil service in car settings on the MMI, but this will only do time/distance servicing not variable.

The cooling system on these is needlessly complicated and depending on spec has different types and number of thermostats, so understandable if they're confused but the computer should sort that at their end. Is it a manual or auto? and does the plastic housing have 1 hose coming off it or 3...

The minimum parts alone are £400+ for a decent quality kit, so depending how friendly you are with him £1000 isn't miles out. You might even get away with just replacing the top tensioners like others on here, but you won't know until you're in there. Once its sorted with proper oil changes...

Do you know your gearbox code? It'll be on the build sheet if not