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When you carry out the paint correction you are effectively polishing out defects. You could, although defintitely not advised(!!), go in with the harshest polish and the most aggressive pad you can find and remove the swirls and some of the scratches (some may be too deep) but you would...

You may find the baby blue is a slightly softer paint than the black and so a bit easier to remove defects. Audi paint is supposed to be quite hard but there are always exceptions hence the often given advice to start with the lightest combination of polish first to see if that works. To the...

I have a das-6 pro which I'm more than happy with. I did have a udm a few years back which eventually died and at the time I thought, no worries the car is how I want it to look I wont miss it. However I don't just use mine for correction work, also applying glazes, sealants, cleaners etc. makes...

General rule is to start with the lightest combo first (pad/polish) then if that does the job you have removed the minimum amount of paint. Practice is the key, if you can find a scrap panel then have a play on that then it doesn't matter if you damage it.

Lepsons in Gillingham Kent are supposed to be pretty good, not had to use them myself though.

My first try would be a paint cleaner as mentioned above, or a finishing polish, something with mild abrasives. If they are not lacquered (I don't have roof rails) then autosol. You also say about polishing with zymol, what zymol products do you have? What carlack product did you get?

I had a megs brush and couldn't get on with it, ended up with the EZ brush pictured in CMD's post which is much better. The bristles seem to be a bit softer so less flicking of brake dust all over you and they also clean better as well. A lot of people have had them snap at the base but you have...

Hi John, what pads would you recommend for audi paint?

Do you mean using the pad to do your car then using the same pad to do your mum's straight after? You can use a pad on any car, just start with clean pads so your not rubbing any dried polish into the paint (!!). Audi paint is generally hard but always assume it isn't and start with a light...

The last question threw me for a bit but then I thought about what you are doing. Assuming paint is not required, and you are not down to primer/metal, the reason you would see a scratch or a swirl mark is there is an imperfection in the surface and the light catches it, particularly as it is...

As said the super resin polish is great for hiding swirls but you'll need something to go over the top like a sealant,eg extra gloss protection, or a wax. The srp needs to be worked for a bit to get the best out of it to allow the fillers to break down and fill the swirls and removal of the...

I would definitely try a different drying towel. The first one I tried I could not get on with at all then I discovered online purchasing! You don't need to go mad with it but a drying towel and a couple of microfibre cloths to remove product should help. What sort of cloths were you using? Some...

For me, if you can feel it trying to remove it completely could be pretty tricky and maybe a little dangerous. My first steps would be to clean out the scratch using polishes by hand. At the minute you will have rough edges to the scratch which will catch the light making it more visible and...

Having just got a black car (September) I thought about this and have tried a sealant instead of a wax, the theory being a sealant has better sheeting properties rather than beading properties. I'm still experimenting but have some wax on there at the minute and I can't really see any difference...

Once polished up would a generous treatment of a pre wax cleaner help, are they supposed to be rich in oils and non abrasive?

Agree with all the above and the SRP and HD wax is a good combo. To get the best out of the SRP it needs to be worked into the paint for a bit, not just a wipe over (like I used to do). It contains fillers which need to be broken down to go into in swirls in the paint, then the wax on top to...

@Wozski, might be worth giving Autobrite a call, very helpful chap

@Cabbyfan, yes the wax can be used on the bumpers and door trim. I guess as long as it's smooth plastic and not textured like some of the older non-colour coded bumpers it's ok as it will buff off again. As for the wax I have a sample pot of purple haze and it's very nice to apply and buff off...

I would start with a drying towel instead of a chamois. Then get some clay in, I find products put on after clay seem to go further as the paint is nice and smooth, probably all in my head though lol! Then if you are on a budget maybe a glaze, something that is filler heavy to mask swirls, black...

I would wash it again after the claying to get rid of any clay residue. You have a choice with your last step product. You have waxes and sealants, waxes have natural products in and sealants are synthetic. Your friend is right EGP will do as a last stage product as it is a sealant, you can then...