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Could there be a problem with a sticking piston on the driver's side rear or does the caliper definitely release after you press the brakes? Just wondering if you might have tested with applying the handbrake and thinking it was releasing fine but it could be sticking when you use the brakes?

Could be worth bleeding them, but I'm no expert to be honest. I read in the Haynes manual for the A3 that they should be done in a certain order but not sure how important that is. Are you using a pressure bleeding kit or getting someone to give you a hand?

+1. I have to give a bit of help with the handbrake to clear the surface rust of the back discs if the car has been sitting for the week and that's with recent rear calipers, discs and pads. Don't think the rear brakes do too much under normal braking to be honest.

Not sure if this is the right thread but my car never gets above 70 on the temperature gauge, can anyone help?

Might sound ridiculous but I had a similar problem after having the back axle off to do the bushes. The brakes came back into their own after a couple of days driving. Maybe some air was trapped somewhere?

Unless there is a fault and Arthur Daley has got Terence to disconnect the bulb:detective2:

It's my money I'll do what I want with it :moa: Not in my nature to push someone out of the housing market and then steal half their wages at the end of every month:)

No buy-to-let allowed :no: Right, I'm off to get my Monopoply scratchcard, wish me luck:)

What would you rather have? A million pound tax-free lump sum or 50,000 before tax per year for life?

You haven't lived mate.

The dealer will try and sell you the whole pipe as the washers are pressed on when new. I didn't have any luck with B&Q so ordered ten size 12x16x1.5 from this seller: eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

I read somewhere that the "active ingredient" in the Mr Muscle is sodium hydroxide which is the same as what makes the Innotec fluid work. The Innotec kit has a "Turbo Clean 2 is a specially developed rinse agent to neutralise Turbo Clean 1 and to rinse it together with the carbon and dirt...

+1 I'm considering doing this clean up and wonder if it might be better to suck all of the used cleaner out from the turbo using a piece of silicone tube and a large syringe? Could the turbo then be cleaned by refilling with something like diesel, or any other suggestions, and emptied in the...

That's a shocking price:(

Are you sure it's £50 from Audi? Last time I bought some it was about £30 from VW. What about a Skoda or Seat dealership, maybe they'd be cheaper if you live close to one. If not then these guys are really good for mail order VAG parts: Quantum Oil Range - Synta, Longlife, Platinum

Last time I bought tyres online for the cheapest price I could find. I was out when they arrived so had to go and collect them. Found a garage who wanted £15 per wheel and went back at an agreed time and they kept me waiting for an hour. In the end it worked out £5 cheaper than the price I can...

Are you going for the genuine part from the dealer or TPS to minimise the hassle of doing it all over again further down the line? It's well worth disconnecting the oil cooler pipes and also the thermostat and giving the engine and radiator a right good flush through with a hose to remove any...

Apparently Pagid make the pads and discs for Audi. I've not ordered anything from them yet, but these guys seem to do really good prices on Pagid stuff with free delivery which seems good: eBay My World - carpartssaver

Hi there. I'm running a 110 TDI at 148k miles so in a similar boat. On the oil front I really can't see past Quantum Platinum from the dealers and a genuine oil filter and sump plug which I change every 6k miles maximum. For all the saving in price, I'd recommend original air and fuel filters as...

You're right, didn't read the stalling bit, sorry.