Search results for query: *

Hi Thinking of selling my s3 but im not sure what price to ask for it, its a silver 2000 pre facelift with 88, 000 miles Mods are; •Td05 18g turbo •tigart underslung mani •550 injectors •miltek exhaust •fully hidden welly cooler •scat rods •supertech valves •solid...

So does this not work on the me7 narrow band?

If the rod snaps and puts a hole in the block it can set the car on fire because of the engine oil going on to the hot exhaust. Forged rods can be done for around £400 if you diy them

ye you can get the uj and rubber gaiter seperatly and its around the 100 quid mark

i dont think the first garage have done much wronge, at most they have missed a broken spring 1, shockers have to have oil dripping off them to fail, not just misting 2, the power steering pump leak, again has to be dripping and if your car has a undertray fitted then you cant see it anyway and...

im not 100% sure what the turbo is originally for but i think evo?? its the same fitment/flanges as an ihi vf34. my mani is the same as this http://www.tig-art.com/inc/sdetail/897

i will try put my dyno graph up later, but i have a td05 18g turbo mapped by jabba and i get full boost by around 3100 rpm in 3rd gear or higher. The best way i can explain it is if you give it full load at say 2000rpm the boost gauge will be at zero then slowly get up to 12 psi upto 3000rpm...

no, from wakefield and got a silver s3 with bbs ch wheels

i've just had my wheels done by metal magic in barnsley and fitted kumho tyres, they have done an amazing job.

i'd agree with that

TBH if i was in you shoes, i would get the car logged by some one who knows what there doing to see if the injectors are working flat out and if a upgrade is needed. Then cut your losses with custom code and get a proper custom map from somebody else.

go revo cause i think its only £50 to upgrade to stage 2, CC will cost you an arm and a leg if decide to upgrade to stage 2 in the future.

i think its near the steering coloum. its a little box about 1 inch by 1 inch and will click when you turn the ignition on then click again 2 seconds later. if i was you i would buy a new one and try it, they are about a tenner i think.

i would be looking at the fuel pump relay (j17) and wiring because the fuel pump relay sends power to the fuel pump, injectors, lambda, maf and n75 boost control valve

i would guess either voltage supply relay or water in the ecu

gutted for you mate. can you stick some pics up of the damage? and why is your insurance so expensive?? how old are you?:sign_pics:

if you have replaced piston rings and what not, it needs to be run in on cheap mineral oil so the rings bed in and the bores dont glaze. millers running in oil is supposed to be good stuff if you can get hold of it, or just use any 10w 40 mineral oil...

i did a couple of vids in the car but non of them sounded anything like it does in real life:shrug: this vid doesn't sound much like the car but you get the idea (non res) http://http://s928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/homer_s3/?action=view&current=DSCI0005.flv

i'll give it a go tomorrow but might have to be a phone video i no what you mean, the reason i got milltek is because the local exhaust fabricators near me dont understand ''not too loud'' and the quietest silencers nearly burst your ear drums!!

The Milltek resonated is quiter than standard, the non resonated is perfect, its still fairly quite on idle and on part throttle then gets louder on boost