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You need to change the adaptation for the light indicator. The value from 7 to 0

In addition, byte 28, bit 2 and bit 4 should be enabled. Bit 2: auto hold message Bit 4: auto hold BAP

The heat elements are just two coils/resistors in series. Obviously you read 0V on the output (which is earth). You should measure the potential over the in and output and see 12V. If not, your earth point isn't good (such as the 1st post shows, it's incorrect!!).

220k km on the clock and none of this fits my 1.4TFSI (150hp). The injector ticking is present, but it's not even as loud as the EA888 gen 1 engine, so I guess it's fine on my part. CoD works fantastically, can't feel a difference when it's turned on/off. The turbo is sweating, but no oil...

Congo activator on a5oc forum for mib 2 highscale

No offense, but if the original xenons from the 8V (even the 8P) aren't bright enough for you to see, then you should really get your eyes checked. It's bright enough to see far enough. Halogens from the past were a lot weaker!

To me they look fine

The nightbreakers are around the 4300K mark, very comparable to OEM. For me it's white enough. 5000K type of bulbs are too "blueish" for night time for me.

Don't forget to change your ABS coding. If you select 54 for Byte 4, Byte 17 will be 2A If you select 68 for Byte 14, Byte 22 will be 16 If you select 69 for Byte 14, Byte 22 will be 96

I recently replaced mine with the Nightbreaker Next Gen (+220%). I don't see much difference with the original Philips Xenstart bulbs. According to some tests, philips bulbs lose intensity after an hour, whereas the osram nightbreakers stay at peak brightness.

Poor grounding. Use the ground points at the door sills like you should according to the proper instructions. Do not route the loom through the center console, but through the door sills.

MHS2 has different maps and a different patch. Check a5oc forum user Congo

https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/hold-assist-via-vcds.296879/page-3#post-3714561 From post 56 do not do step 3 (byte 23, 25), refer to the post mentioned above (post 98).

Manually code the changes, do not copy (abs) codings you see online. In the linked thread at the last page (conveniently already linked to the right comment), you'll see what long coding you have to do. In one of the other pages you'll see what else to change. Read from the newest post backwards...

It can be enabled only with a 5Q0 ABS module. 3Q0 ABS module needs the button. Button can be found for 15 euro, loom from AliExpress for 20 euro. https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/hold-assist-via-vcds.296879/page-3#post-3792193

Stage 1 tune file for PCM Flash. It's a fairly safe tune, shouldn't really get over the advertised 170hp/320Nm. Attached with it is the original tune (latest sw version) in ODIS format (can be converted to binary with WinOLS). The tune is applied to the original file supplied.

Definitely not the same. Different lengths

You can use the golf mk7 usb port if you want it on a budget.

It is possible to activate, you just need to swap the USB port, change the wiring and coding. The USB port is expensive. Use more incredible bash to unlock. (And mib helper for more stuff).

Check from the red menu. Hold nav/map + radio for 10 sec while you're in the main menu. Other ways, if you can write on the rotary button, MHI2. If you can't write and the two buttons adjacent to the rotary button are silver, MHS2.