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So I took it back. Said i wasn’t happy and it was working before. They said they’d get their diagnostic fella to take a look since they aren’t a vag specialist. Turned out to have water corrosion on the unlocking latch causing the motors to sit and wait for a signal that never came. So purely...

Mine has 220k on it currently and drives lovely. It’s just the bodywork and alloys that need love. Interior is damage free and freaky hides it’s age. I just had a clutch and dmf done that wasn’t cheap but hey ho. I guess I’ll keep it now

When I worked at Audi they said 75k or 5yrs... no one’s forcing you to change it. Let us know how many valves bent if it snaps though

I had one on my mk2 golf with a 1.8T 20v fitted and couldn’t of been more happy. i also asked a different power flow Place if they could move my exhaust hanger and they were less than unhelpful. Couldn’t be ***** with me basically.

5yrs or 75k just put the 2nd one on mine due to 5yrs even though it’s done 105k

I had issues with mine where I had to restore basic settings on my abs module before the power steering came back. This was after a long time with the battery disconnected. When I fitted cruise I missed the coding on the engine despite seeing the stalk moving on vcds. Sorted it now

Is the only issue the re-circ one? Otherwise it’s shave, plug and play? what about the change from econ to a/c. Does the light show on when the a/c is off on a pre-fl?

A white led bulb of the same fitment should do? p21w

I fitted a cheap set to my mk4 golf and the ride was horrible. I think those were FK street £200 ish. One of the dampers failed shortly after fitting and I returned them and paid the extra for FK high sports £400 ish. Much better.

Euro car parts only show one that mounts with 3 bolts yet list 2 options. 1 has the driveshaft bolt and 1 doesn’t. Could this be the 4th bolt? easiest thing would be to jack up a corner, remove the wheel and have a look. You can probably see just by lying on the floor once it’s jacked up.

If I had to guess I’d say a wheel speed sensor is misbehaving and telling the ecu porkies. would need to plug in to confirm.

Passed the mot after being off the road for 2 years. 1 advisory for a slight play in track rod end grrr

Pretty sure the tank is empty now so using the output test must transfer it from 1 side to the other. New fuel filter and some fresh v power tomorrow. Cheers.

Weirdly now my gauge is reading empty. Must of been the cycling of the ignition or something that zero’d it

Is there a way with vcds to make it transfer the “other side” of the tank over? in engine on output tests I activated the fuel pump and drained it down to 1/4 on the gauge but now it’s stopped and I can only assume the passenger side of the tank still has fuel in it. i wanted to drain it...

I have the powerflex anti-lift mounts and the adjustable front bushes to go with them. Any suggestions where I should set the front ones ahead of the alignment? I’d rather do that bit myself than tie up the alignment bay faffing around with it.

Got it built back up and went for a shakedown. First time I’ve driven it in 2 years woop. Cleared off all the issues causing lights on the dash ready for the mot. A few basic settings applied and steering calibration done. Funny how the power assist just comes back online while you’re doing...

Comes from being a heavy plant mechanic by trade. asked my lad to pass me a 3/8” extension today while I was under the car. After a while he came back with a 12” 3/4” extension... I think we’re a bit off that lad. Maybe something a bit thinner?

I used oxyacetylene on mine... once it had gone cherry red I let it cool a bit before turning it out easily. But I’m aware not everyone has bottles available

The original clocks went back in shortly after. Everything works fine now. I just wanted the white instead of the red. No problems at all with the car