Our 2018 SQ5 was inspected and not affected. Audi did advise prior to the inspection that parts would be required (trim /panel covers) if the car needed any remedial action on this recall and they had done this for some vehicles they had previously inspected.
Noticed our SQ5(FY) 2018 did not have the rear DRL's active.
Searched high and low for the VCDS coding on the web and no clear coding.
Older Q5 models advising byte-2 bit-7 of '09 Cent Elec' module but this setting was not valid for the FY.
Tracked it down to byte-2 bit-3 ('sl_at_drl,active')...
Here on offer is my Genuine ROSS-TECH HEX-USB+CAN cable.
This was originally purchased from ROSS-TECH directly from the United States and is an unlimited VIN cable with regard to use on compatible VAG vehicles. This cable is immaculate with no signs of any obvious wear, and has been used for...
The components you suggest look spot on apart from item #4 the supply cable - I am sure you can probably source the correct plug from somewhere - maybe worth a quick query with Audi and get some repair wires and make up your own correct plug.
Mine are still going strong - never had one single...
NO not for the correct OEM set-up - see post #16 for the circuit. The signal to the headlight washer motor comes straight from the "Central Electronics Controller" unit. I have had a pump fail in the past requiring replacement.
First thing I did when I got it was to try it on the car - and it fits fine. I have also used it to get a puncture repaired after arriving home and a rear went flat. My nearest KwikFit is around 8 miles away so got me there OK. A colleague has an A4 TDIe Avant 163ps with the same alloys -...
Scan your car with VCDS - it will tell you exactly what has set the alarm off. You may have a faulty switch in one of your doors - had problems previously with VW Passats with tailgate alarm switches in locks.
As requested - What is the part number of the original switch so I can determine if you are Hi-Line or Lo-Line circuit spec.
This will reveal how the car is wired as there are a set of circuits for each.
At least we have established the replacement switch is the same as the original.
I think this thread is pretty complete if you read all the posts - check all the wiring.
Get a replacement control unit (located behind glove box - see previous posts for picture location) - come up on Ebay quite alot - paid a few pence couple years ago. Seen them recently for around £40...
If you leave it too long the internal alarm battery acid will leak and destroy parts of the alarm siren circuit board - this can lead to unpredictable results. Caught mine just in time - one cell was just starting to leak.