Correct.
Is the car mapped? If so, replace the sensor first then get your tuner to update to 0060 and g247 will be fixed.
If it’s a stock car replace the sensor and it may be ok.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2.5TFSI/permalink/801055520094357/
I have copied the link to the thread but not sure if you will see it your end. May have to join the group. But search G247 and you’ll see the thread and update comments from myself and others.
...on the RS3 8P. Replace the sensor once the car has been sat for a day or two. Word of warning that sensor to do in situ is a right pain in the a**e!! I’d recommend removing the upper inlet manifold for access.
Myself and few others found out G247 could actually be down to a software update...
RS3 8P is the longest car I’ve owned - it ticks all the boxes. Love hate relationship but if you do all the preventative maintenance and resolve the common issues then you should have less of a headache. Find the right spec though.
I always update my 8P with the latest models to keep it as...
The oem shocks are awful. When they fail you can literally compress the shocks by your hands. So that’s why it’s so bouncy being the weight of the car is all on the spring with no rebound. Also another reason why the springs break as they can’t handle the weight for too long.
If your after a...
It’s a bit like my Powervalve turbo back system. The actuator at the rear is tapped into the manifold to be boost operated. So the S button is redundant but no biggy to turn it on for a ) the light is a pleasing visual and b) for throttle response as mentioned above (although I’m still not sure...
Finally replaced the lights today as I had respray my FMIC as it started flaking.
The Philips are obviously a much cooler light in comparison. Obviously haven’t gone anyway to prove what visibility is like but it’s an improvement
No the bottom photo is the Philips D3S bulbs and the top image is the Philips D3S bulbs with the boosters which are £135 delivered.
As I say the Philips are 4800kelvin and the oem are 4300k however with the boosters it will bring the Philips back down to 4300k so same colour just better...
I’ve been so busy doing other bits. Not forgotten, I’m planning to attack this week definitely.
I also messaged trups and he said that a booster can be applied to these D3S bulbs which takes away some of the whiteness and makes it back to oem brightness but it’s 20% better performance. See...
I’ve been down the TTE route for 2 years and now running the TTU510s hybrid which is more low end power so better for daily drivability. TTE was top end. With all the hardware your looking about £5k then mapping
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