Car Pro C Quartz UK

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Donners_99

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• Jun 5, 2020

• #1

Hi All,

Has anyone applied Car Pro C Quartz UK to their car ? How did they find application and durability ? Any pictures of the results ?

Thanks

 

Bristle Hound

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• Jun 5, 2020

• #2

@Donners_99 - I know this product review/video is for CarPro CQuartz Lite but it may be of some help
https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=420291&highlight=carpro

 

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DW81

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• Jun 12, 2020

• #3

Applied it to my rs3 last summer and my TTS prior to this.
Found the product extremely easy to apply and wipe off. Just first off concentrate on smaller areas.
As the cars are left outside all year round and was used quite a lot in all westhers I reckon 12months is pretty much where you are going to be on this product before you would need to look at re polishing and applying.
I don't honestly believe these products last anywhere near as long as the manufacturers say they do unless you keep the car permanently garaged and rarely drive it.
However I would go through the process again as it definitely lasts longer than a wax.
These are just my experience views on this.

 

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RS03_SEN

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• Jun 13, 2020

• #4

Donners_99 said:

Hi All,

Has anyone applied Car Pro C Quartz UK to their car ? How did they find application and durability ? Any pictures of the results ?

Thanks

Click to expand...

Apply a couple of layers. I love the stuff.

Sent from my GM1913 using Tapatalk

 

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JWAM

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• Jun 14, 2020

• #5

I used it on my (winter) wheels, few coats and a couple of coats of the gliss topper. Outlasted the Gtechniq G5 on my summer wheels by miles. Very user friendly to apply as long as you stick to instructions. I reckon you'll prob get between 12-24 months out of it (with good surface properties) if car is left outside and you keep up with 'topper' product application.

 

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Donners_99

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• Jun 14, 2020

• #6

JWAM said:

I used it on my (winter) wheels, few coats and a couple of coats of the gliss topper. Outlasted the Gtechniq G5 on my summer wheels by miles. Very user friendly to apply as long as you stick to instructions. I reckon you'll prob get between 12-24 months out of it (with good surface properties) if car is left outside and you keep up with 'topper' product application.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply mate, what topper products do you mean ? Using reset as a shampoo and applying reload monthly or applying additional layers ?

 

JWAM

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• Jun 15, 2020

• #7

Donners_99 said:

Thanks for the reply mate, what topper products do you mean ? Using reset as a shampoo and applying reload monthly or applying additional layers ?

Click to expand...

No worries. Toppers I was referring to being reload, or any other si based lsp over the ceramics. I use sonax bsd in the winter as I found it lasted longer than reload with slightly better hydrophobic properties (and cheaper!), but it is a bit grabby on the paint and doesn't leave that slick feeling to the touch some like...
Honestly, the application of the 'diy' ceramics is very straight forward. @X3man has a very nice and detailed thread of coating his new car here on these forums (using gyeon products) and is very helpful if you wanted to reach out for any more advice. Good luck!

 

DW81

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• Jun 16, 2020

• #8

I reckon that my cquartz coating as pretty much perished now and the only thing giving the gloss and water beading is P&S beadmaker that I apply on top of this.
Washed it on Sunday and felt quite a bit of contamination on the paint work.
Probably due a quick refresh with the clay mit and polisher again.

 

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123Quattro

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• Jun 16, 2020

• #9

DW81 said:

I reckon that my cquartz coating as pretty much perished now and the only thing giving the gloss and water beading is P&S beadmaker that I apply on top of this.
Washed it on Sunday and felt quite a bit of contamination on the paint work.
Probably due a quick refresh with the clay mit and polisher again.

Click to expand...

Have you done a full decontamination? It is remarkable what maintenance can bring back. The coating is susceptible to being clogged up, especially if toppers are used and if you have hard water. If you were to look at ceramic under a microscope it would be rough. and bumpy and full love peaks and valleys. It is this surface that causes water beading. These valleys get filled with toppers, and contamination and level out which means no more hydrophobic effect even if the coating itself remains (and is still providing a hard surface and protection). Toppers bring back the effect for a while, but of course don't last. A clean out with a strong wash of reset, ironx, tarx, spotless and another heavy wash to remove any chemicals and you will likely see some return in performance if not then it'll be time for a clay and polish and a new coating, but worth going though the motions first as you may be surprised what remains.

 

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