Disconnecting battery to add CTEK

TC18

TC18

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Hi

Just looking to see if someone else has added a ctek charging point to their cars? I usually add one to all my cars when I get them, but I’ve never got round to doing it on this one.

when disconnecting the battery does the car require any reprogramming after? Radio codes etc.

my wife’s Renault never likes to be disconnected, it will through all sorts of errors and requires a radio code, so thought I’d check before going ahead.

thanks
 
Afraid I can’t help.

I didn’t see the need as the connection points are so easy to access under the bonnet of the S4. Just went with the crocodile clips option as in my case the car gets relatively frequent use.

My old Porsche was a different story as it sat for weeks without the key being turned.
 
I use AMP superseal plugs:

RS3 CTEK conns 1



Amp


Same for all my cars - RS3 shown: one end a permanent fix and easy to couple to and a much better connection then that CTEK provide

£1.86 each on eBay
item number: 321418356615
 
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TC18 said:
Hi

Just looking to see if someone else has added a ctek charging point to their cars? I usually add one to all my cars when I get them, but I’ve never got round to doing it on this one.

when disconnecting the battery does the car require any reprogramming after? Radio codes etc.

my wife’s Renault never likes to be disconnected, it will through all sorts of errors and requires a radio code, so thought I’d check before going ahead.

thanks
Click to expand...
Why are you wishing to disconnect the battery, just follow the advice in the A4 manual and connect the charger to the points under the bonnet....
Screenshot 20200416 114810 Adobe Acrobat
 
Sorry, was late when I posted, completely forgot about the points under the bonnet!

It wasn’t until I opened the bonnet I had seen the error of my ways :laughing:

I do like @45bvtc solution though..
 
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I disconnected the battery a few times to retrofit a reversing camera, and generally no harm done.
I didn't realise there was points for charging in the bonnet, worth remembering!
 
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TC18 said:
Sorry, was late when I posted, completely forgot about the points under the bonnet!

It wasn’t until I opened the bonnet I had seen the error of my ways :laughing:

I do like @45bvtc solution though..
Click to expand...

Did you end up using the ring terminals to connect your charger? I've just been out to have a look at the positive/negative posts on my A4 and I can't decide on the best place to attach my terminals - I'm hoping someone else has done it and can share a photo! :happy:
 
Jack Rayner said:
Did you end up using the ring terminals to connect your charger? I've just been out to have a look at the positive/negative posts on my A4 and I can't decide on the best place to attach my terminals - I'm hoping someone else has done it and can share a photo! :happy:
Click to expand...

Yes, ring terminals at the engine-bay car-post connections for me on the TT and RS3. On the SQ5, however, I used ring terminals direct to the battery and ran a 15-inch flying lead into the 'above' space - so as top connect without removing the luggage floor - to the CTEK coupling/connection.

Just too easy; same female connections on each car and just the one male on the CTEK - or whichever way around suits you... :blink: :whip: Sorry...

The CTEK connections are sh!te by the way so best go use something that's dependable and I sure do find these AMP superseal plugs (post #3) both cost effective and dependable.

STAY SAFE... :racer:
 
45bvtc said:
Yes, ring terminals at the engine-bay car-post connections for me on the TT and RS3. On the SQ5, however, I used ring terminals direct to the battery and ran a 15-inch flying lead into the 'above' space - so as top connect without removing the luggage floor - to the CTEK coupling/connection.

Just too easy; same female connections on each car and just the one male on the CTEK - or whichever way around suits you... :blink: :whip: Sorry...

The CTEK connections are sh!te by the way so best go use something that's dependable and I sure do find these AMP superseal plugs (post #3) both cost effective and dependable.

STAY SAFE... :racer:
Click to expand...

Ahhh! I was worried about direct to the battery as some people have suggested that the current flow should pass through the sensor attached to the negative terminal?

I couldn't find any posts relating to this on the B9 platform, but there was a bloke on YouTube with a B8 who recommended using a negative connection off the body ground in the spare wheel area and then direct to the positive terminal on the battery because of this.

I know I'm not currently using the car due to the current situation, but I just don't want to turn it into a very expensive paperweight by frying something! :whistle2: But maybe I'm just being overly cautious and overthinking something that's relatively simple... :happy:

I'll take a look at the AMP plugs, I've actually ordered a NOCO Genius5 instead of the CTEK, but I imagine the connectors it'll come with will be of similar quality so thanks for the tip! :thumbs up:

Once everything has arrived I might post my female-on-female/male-on-male/male-on-female, equal-opportunity-connector installation for everyone to see! :blink::whip: :haha:
 
I have been using a CTEK CT 5.0 Start/Stop on my A4 for the past two weeks. The clamps are up to the job and everything works dandy...
 
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Hi Chaps,

I've just put a CTEK MXS 5.0 in the classifieds.

Brand new, never been used.

£50 delivered secure signed for package.

Any questions let me know.
 
I've also found out you can lock the car as normal with the bonnet slightly open without the alarm going off...
 
Charger arrived today, I did a test-fit of the lead in the A4 and it could do with some shortening. I definitely don't trust the rubber bung on the connector either so I will be ordering some AMP connectors in the future and making up a short, fused lead myself. :happy:

Some pics from the test fitting:

Size comparison of the lead - I clipped the ring terminals to allow for easier installation
20200422 165854. 20200422 173132

An 18mm socket was needed for the negative post and 10mm for the nut in the positive distribution box. You can just about get the cover off of the positive distribution box without removing the air filter if you gently twist it towards the font of the car.

20200422 173706

In the end I reverted to using the clamps until I've made up a lead. I could have used some zip ties on the NOCO lead and left it semi-flapping about under the bonnet, but the other half has to use the car and I don't fancy a "I broke down and the car smells of electrical burning" phone call when they're doing the weekly shop! :racer:

I didn't seem to have that much clearance under the bonnet of the A5 for the positive clamp so I looped a tea towel through the eye to stop the bonnet latching and give me a few more centimetres of clearance. Poor A5 was reading 11.8v on the multimeter:

20200422 183035 20200422 183201


Thanks for all of the tips and advice people! :thumbs up:
 
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