P0087 error code - advice needed please

Eren S3

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Hey all,

Apologies in advance for the long post! I have done some searches of threads and has increased my knowledge of this issue somewhat so apologies for the new thread here.

Scanned the car yesterday and came up with this code:

000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
P0087 - 002- Too Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 001000010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset Counter: 255
Mileage: 222461km (138,230mi) (Current mileage is 138,938mi)
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2020.03.13
Time: 17:35:38


I've had the car remapped to somewhere between stage 1 and 2 and I am still running the factory fuel pump. My question here is: is it time for a new fuel pump completely or just new internals?

Before all that, I am about to change the cam follower as a preventative measure. It was changed approximately a year ago although in that time I have only driven 7000 miles. The last 1000 miles or so were since the remap. I have noticed a very slight hesitation at high RPM on high throttle and a slight fuel smell outside the car after a drive (currently not inside the car). I will check the cam follower today and post results of that but I will hold off changing it unnecessarily in case I do decide to upgrade the internals. What wear am I looking for on the lobe itself if I can see it?

How would I know if I just need to upgrade the internals of if it is time for a whole new fuel pump? I am familiar with VCDS so have access to scans but I have limited knowledge of live readouts and values etc so I would need some guidance with that if I needed to find a value.

Thanks in advance!

Eren
 
Hey all,

Apologies in advance for the long post! I have done some searches of threads and has increased my knowledge of this issue somewhat so apologies for the new thread here.

Scanned the car yesterday and came up with this code:

000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
P0087 - 002- Too Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 001000010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset Counter: 255
Mileage: 222461km (138,230mi) (Current mileage is 138,938mi)
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2020.03.13
Time: 17:35:38


I've had the car remapped to somewhere between stage 1 and 2 and I am still running the factory fuel pump. My question here is: is it time for a new fuel pump completely or just new internals?

Before all that, I am about to change the cam follower as a preventative measure. It was changed approximately a year ago although in that time I have only driven 7000 miles. The last 1000 miles or so were since the remap. I have noticed a very slight hesitation at high RPM on high throttle and a slight fuel smell outside the car after a drive (currently not inside the car). I will check the cam follower today and post results of that but I will hold off changing it unnecessarily in case I do decide to upgrade the internals. What wear am I looking for on the lobe itself if I can see it?

How would I know if I just need to upgrade the internals of if it is time for a whole new fuel pump? I am familiar with VCDS so have access to scans but I have limited knowledge of live readouts and values etc so I would need some guidance with that if I needed to find a value.

Thanks in advance!

Eren

Has the hesitation and the smell been there since the remap?
If so where did you have it remapped and what engine do you have?
 
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Eren, have you checked around the rear wheel arch on the drivers side (UK) where the fuel filter sits? It may have a slight leak (hence the smell) or it could be clogged if it wasn't changed recently.
Fuel pump is the last thing to think about checking after looking at the cheaper/easy access options first.

Ref' the Cam follower, I recently changed mine after approx 30k since the last change and it was showing signs of wear, but not excessive to warrant a change (but I changed it anyway as that was my intention). This was after it had done approx 20k on R-tech stage 1.
 
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Has the hesitation and the smell been there since the remap?
If so where did you have it remapped and what engine do you have?

I can't be sure when the hesitation came. Perhaps a hesitation is a bit too strong of a word. It felt like the boost tailed off but I was in high gear, high RPM and reasonable speed. I know there will be a peak RPM etc so it could be that. The smell could possibly be disregarded too, I did also install a decat downpipe so could this be what I'm smelling? There's the usual startup smell which is similar to this.

My engine is a BHZ.
 
Eren, have you checked around the rear wheel arch on the drivers side (UK) where the fuel filter sits? It may have a slight leak (hence the smell) or it could be clogged if it wasn't changed recently.
Fuel pump is the last thing to think about checking after looking at the cheaper/easy access options first.

Ref' the Cam follower, I recently changed mine after approx 30k since the last change and it was showing signs of wear, but not excessive to warrant a change (but I changed it anyway as that was my intention). This was after it had done approx 20k on R-tech stage 1.

I will check for the fuel leak round there. As I posted above, I may have been mistaken with the fuel smell as I did decat the car so the startup exhaust smell could be what I am smelling before and after a drive. I will check however just to be sure. I changed it around a year ago. It was recently serviced as well but I don't think that was changed.

I will post a picture of my cam follower as I've just checked it, it looks reasonable to me?! I'll also add a photo of the cam lobe and fuel pump internal.

Thank you both for your responses!

Please excuse the filthy engine bay...

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Cam follower looks fine, I'd only worry about that when you see silver through the black coating.
Have you checked the DV? it might explain the power issue?
 
Cam follower looks fine, I'd only worry about that when you see silver through the black coating.
Have you checked the DV? it might explain the power issue?
Thanks, I'll bear that in mind. I'll attach some photos of the DV. It's the Rev G
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You need to inspect the rubber diaphram and make sure there are no tears or splits in it.
Hard to see from your pic's.
 
Ah ok then I'll do that as well. I took a few more photos but only of different angles such as what I posted. I'm not sure if they would be of much use. I know the DV is around 2 years old so could be worth a change as a preventative measure, I'm not entirely sure of the lifespan of those.

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Ah ok then I'll do that as well. I took a few more photos but only of different angles such as what I posted. I'm not sure if they would be of much use. I know the DV is around 2 years old so could be worth a change as a preventative measure, I'm not entirely sure of the lifespan of those.

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I'm not sure of the lifespan either, but it will probably be reduced if it's running extra boost from a remap.
it might be perfectly fine, but it's worth have a gentle prod to see if any splits or tears have developed.
 
I'm not sure of the lifespan either, but it will probably be reduced if it's running extra boost from a remap.
it might be perfectly fine, but it's worth have a gentle prod to see if any splits or tears have developed.
I will do, definitely worth a check even for my own piece of mind. After checking everything today and clearing error codes, the rescan didn't show anything which is good and odd. I'll keep the thread updated in the mean time with ant developments.

I'll post the results from the measuring blocks I did today with the guidance from the Ross Tech website. Seems the idle is within parameters at least of between 35%-55%
The throttle test as well proved successful, the pressure increases with throttle.
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That's good news.
I tend to scan my car every couple of weeks and if there is a fault code I take a note of it and then clear them all down and do a new scan after a 10-15 mile test drive. If the fault returns I assume it's current and look at what the problem could be. If it stays away then I put it down to a temporary issue that resolved itself but keep an eye out for it returning.
Hope fully you won't see that fault again.
 
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That's good news.
I tend to scan my car every couple of weeks and if there is a fault code I take a note of it and then clear them all down and do a new scan after a 10-15 mile test drive. If the fault returns I assume it's current and look at what the problem could be. If it stays away then I put it down to a temporary issue that resolved itself but keep an eye out for it returning.
Hope fully you won't see that fault again.

Yeah I think I will start scanning more regularly. I usually do it every month or so but I think every few weeks is a better idea.

I've been pointed to the low pressure fuel sensor (06E 906 051K) which could be sending false readings, could this be the case? If this could be the case of replacing this, would I just de-pressurise the system as I did when looking at the cam follower or is there another way?
 
I would take it for a nice drive somewhere and get the engine up to temp and push it through the boost range, then run a new scan.
If the fault has vanished then it could have been down to something as simple as low battery voltage (I had loads of faults on mine for a while and then the battery dies, and since replacing it the faults have stayed away).
 

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