Facelift Known fault with FL RS3 - ticking exhaust valve..

So there are 2 problems, appears i have both. I will explain both below but are all related to the back box!. My damn phone ran out of charge so couldnt get photos this time round.
1) The exhaust Valves are loose - If you put your finger underneath the Pipe coming off the backbox, just under the valves there is a little circle that sticks out. This is the pivot where the Valves sit on. My right hand side one moves alot and the rattle exhibitts out the tailpipe, more so under throttle. Holding your finger over it with pressure and revving it goes away. There is some foreign guy on youtube shows this, but wondered if it was legit and it is.
Example for this one is noise is (this isnt my car just an example)


2) The Exhaust Internal Plates are loose - This is the sound most annoying and exhibitted more with a decat as more pressure and noise passing through them. Inside are a few different plates including some gauze, bit like a maze which is used to reduce drone on a motorway. These are making the ticking noise me and a few others are experiencing all the time but more so on the cold start whereby the cold start high revs take place. Guessing some are worse than others.

Unfortunately we didnt have time to fix any of this because it needs a decision from myself as to which route i take.
1) Seek Audi under warranty, but this could happen again AND they could be twats about the fact i have a decat despite it being a bigger issue than just me. Quickest appt i can get with Audi locally is 24th April and im away anyway.
2) Weld the Valves or take them out and try stiffening them up using a tighter spring. then remove or re-weld some of the internal plates so they dont rattle / cause the ticking.
3) Get an aftermarket exhaust. and send my Audi one back to them covered in dog **** :)

I would rather the Audi solution as it costs me nothing and gets them to realise they have a defective product, going to have a ponder but at least we know its the backbox.
 
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That aint good considering how much you paid for your car with exclusive paint & loaded with options.
Such a shame Audi don't treat these things seriously and look after us customers.
It does make you question buying another Audi when you experience things like this.
Jesus ... rusty hubs / squeaky brakes / exhaust rattles / tyre outer wear / flaking exhaust tips ... there is an extensive list now.
Good job they are such good cars otherwise :icon thumright:
Unfortunately I dont think the quality is better anywhere else. Audi in the late 90s and early 2000s when I first looking at them, the quality of materials was fantastic, these days not so good, more is the pity. Probably still the best out there but not against previous Audis of yester year

Volume, volume, volume of sales seems to be the only thing to ever increase the billions of pounds of profit per annum
 
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That aint good considering how much you paid for your car with exclusive paint & loaded with options.
Such a shame Audi don't treat these things seriously and look after us customers.
It does make you question buying another Audi when you experience things like this.
Jesus ... rusty hubs / squeaky brakes / exhaust rattles / tyre outer wear / flaking exhaust tips ... there is an extensive list now.
Good job they are such good cars otherwise :icon thumright:

It is rubbish! I chased Audi for a reply to my issues and it took 3 weeks. In the end my Dad called because if I did, I’d have wiped the floor with them!!! They reply was total dismissal.

My car bogs down nearly every time the haldex kicks in and holds back like traction control, their response to HAVING EXPERIENCED THIS... was that there were no fault codes so nothing to fix :lmfao:
The centres are absolutely laughable, not an ounce of usable mechanical skill in the ones I’ve had experience of. If the computer says no, that’s all you’re going to get. The car doesn’t always know when it’s broken.

I have yet to reply because I’m giving myself time to calm down, then I will reply. I’m going to sort it all myself, Audi can uhum themselves. I’m extremely unlikely to take it there for servicing, I don’t trust them as far as I could throw them. Seeing my specialist going out on test in my car leaves me with total reassurance it will be treated properly.

When my exhaust was replaced, it was a cold start rattle. On the dashcam footage, the technician started it.. put straight into dynamic and revved the nuts off of it to the stationary limiter for a good minute or so with it stone cold. Made me want to cry. I didn’t mention this, because it only gives them more grounds to switch it off in the future which they said it is their policy to do so. They have already switched it off once without permission. I’d rather see what’s going on and keep quiet providing it isn’t horrific, than not.

Their explanation for the constant ticking is that a heatshield is cooling and heating, yes they do this when switched off. But they don’t start nearly the instant you start it and continue throughout the drive for hours on end. I have been enjoying it in some lanes the last 2 days, all 4 windows down and even at full throttle you can hear this loud disconcerting clicking! Best way I can describe it is a high pitch metallic noise like a stone stuck behind the disc. It never did it before the new exhaust, it’s started ever since.
 
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It is rubbish! I chased Audi for a reply to my issues and it took 3 weeks. In the end my Dad called because if I did, I’d have wiped the floor with them!!! They reply was total dismissal.

My car bogs down nearly every time the haldex kicks in and holds back like traction control, their response to HAVING EXPERIENCED THIS... was that there were no fault codes so nothing to fix :lmfao:
The centres are absolutely laughable, not an ounce of usable mechanical skill in the ones I’ve had experience of. If the computer says no, that’s all you’re going to get. The car doesn’t always know when it’s broken.

I have yet to reply because I’m giving myself time to calm down, then I will reply. I’m going to sort it all myself, Audi can uhum themselves. I’m extremely unlikely to take it there for servicing, I don’t trust them as far as I could throw them. Seeing my specialist going out on test in my car leaves me with total reassurance it will be treated properly.

When my exhaust was replaced, it was a cold start rattle. On the dashcam footage, the technician started it.. put straight into dynamic and revved the nuts off of it to the stationary limiter for a good minute or so with it stone cold. Made me want to cry. I didn’t mention this, because it only gives them more grounds to switch it off in the future which they said it is their policy to do so. They have already switched it off once without permission. I’d rather see what’s going on and keep quiet providing it isn’t horrific, than not.

Their explanation for the constant ticking is that a heatshield is cooling and heating, yes they do this when switched off. But they don’t start nearly the instant you start it and continue throughout the drive for hours on end. I have been enjoying it in some lanes the last 2 days, all 4 windows down and even at full throttle you can hear this loud disconcerting clicking! Best way I can describe it is a high pitch metallic noise like a stone stuck behind the disc. It never did it before the new exhaust, it’s started ever since.



That is total rubbish mate BUT ...

Your mica pup does look amazing & easily my fave Audi colour in a stunning car (most of the time) :icon thumright:
 
That is total rubbish mate BUT ...

Your mica pup does look amazing & easily my fave Audi colour in a stunning car (most of the time) :icon thumright:

I know the car is great around the problems! Especially with windows down until you hear, click click :lmfao:

Oh well I’m hoping a PFL Sports Exhaust will fix the problems and perhaps even improve sound not that I can see how it can be improved :p
 
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Have you tried a session or two really giving it the beans? I have to say (2 cars in now) I have had no issues with brake squeal and just the normal cold start nonsense. The gearbox has a 'learning' function which may need addressing by putting the car through the loops - I would have thought the issues you are talking about are far more gearbox related than the Haldex.
 
Have you tried a session or two really giving it the beans? I have to say (2 cars in now) I have had no issues with brake squeal and just the normal cold start nonsense. The gearbox has a 'learning' function which may need addressing by putting the car through the loops - I would have thought the issues you are talking about are far more gearbox related than the Haldex.

I quite regularly drive it fast, most times it’s out.

My brake squeal hasn’t happened for a while as a consequence of that but it’s still a problem just being masked by my driving.

How does the learning function work?

The Haldex is definitely a Haldex issue. The gearbox is silly smooth slotting into gear then when the rear wheels have to get their act together the engine note drops and gives you a kick again on start, like a learner slipping off of the clutch kind of kick.
 
Not sure if mine is rattling after the cold start. So hard to tell unless I get someone else driving it.

One thing for sure, after a blast and getting the exhaust hot it likes to pop and sound awesome.


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Not sure if mine is rattling after the cold start. So hard to tell unless I get someone else driving it.

One thing for sure, after a blast and getting the exhaust hot it likes to pop and sound awesome.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They do rattle low down in the revs under load, I notice it at low speeds around town.
 
Audi TPI video clip of Flap Rattle on RS3 / TTRS

 
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Hi All, new here have the new RS4 and the new RS3 sportbak, noticed on the RS3 Sports Exhaust pain the matt paint inside is flaking off and has only 350 miles on the clock, not driven hard as of yet as always like to run them in gently as per manual. Wouldn't mind have had previous Audi RS4 sold at 15k miles no flaking, previous R8 V10+ none on that, new RS4 2.5k miles fine on that, R8 V10+ current version none on that....just wondering if anyone else has had this issue and what the out come was. Seems stupid the end caps are connected to the whole system what a load of landfill!
 
I'm afraid the flaking exhaust tips are another common fault added to the list many owners have.
 
Thanks for the reply, mins is on the internal matt stuff. Be interesting to gauge feedback on who Audi are dealing with this
 
Don't cars have 10yr paint warranties? It's a paint, albeit on an exhaust. It should be designed to handle the higher temps.
 
Thats good then. Hopefully the replacement has a thicker coating on it.
 
Thats good then. Hopefully the replacement has a thicker coating on it.
I'm pretty sure it's exactly the same as the original and you just pulled the short straw if your exhaust has flaking issues.
 
Yes it's same exhaust. Just looked it up in audis parts catalogue.
There is no updated exhaust with a new part number.
They've been the same since summer/fall 2017 :/
 
Good evening people. I have a iroz downpipe and milltek catback exhaust. Rattle Is still there. the rattle is here for good
 
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Fair enough they swapped the exhausts and unfortunately the new one out of the box (that they didn't see) was flaking from brand fire new....
 
Here's the official document

Wastegate Rattle
 
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Great post, again, T-800!

It clearly says that noises shouldnt occur after the ~20 sec. warm up phase. Although Ive clearly heard light ticking on rs3s driving past me on the street :smirk:

And changing to catless downpipe enhances this sound as well.
 
RS4 doesn't do it, weird that one RS is "wired" different to another.

TX.

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Great post, again, T-800!

It clearly says that noises shouldnt occur after the ~20 sec. warm up phase. Although Ive clearly heard light ticking on rs3s driving past me on the street :smirk:

And changing to catless downpipe enhances this sound as well.

Noticed last week when the wife was driving the RS3, car had been well warmed up and driven several miles, as she accelerated away from standing start clearly noticed the ticking from the car, sounded terrible.


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RS4 doesn't do it, weird that one RS is "wired" different to another.

TX.

Sent from my BBB100-2 using Tapatalk

V6 though @terminator x ..............different set up, probably utilises a different way of catalyst warm up.


I had a discussion with a Turbo specialist last week about the warm up phase..........

When i gave him the turbo serial/part number he was quite impressed with the set up, called the set up a 'reverse rotation'

He explained how the waste-gate arm(picture below gives you an idea) inside the housing is ever so slightly a 'loose' fitment on the pivot arm and that when the gate is 'open' it's only by a few millimetres.

Turbo

I asked him why did the rattle noise stop when putting the car into dynamic during the warm up phase, his thoughts on this were that it may be a combination of the waste-gate closing slightly and the back pressure changing if the exhaust flaps were in an open position because the car was in dynamic.


He went on to say that the BMW rattle is different to what we have with our cars, as it's a rod adjustment issue that owners/BMW dealers usually undertake to stop it and it's only ever on 1 of the turbo's (BMW rattle is 'usually' on twin turbo cars he said)

The only other cars he knows have turbo troubles are the Mitsubishi Evo's, in that they have a poorer turbo waste-gate design/Manufacture, over time he said they start to rattle and when they do it's time to get them modified by replacing the pivot arm assembly for a better one.

One other interesting point he brought up was on the Ford 2.5 engine, when owners modify the engine/exhaust for big power he said some were coming a cropper by making a switch to 0w-30 Oil thinking it would be better for the engine, not so he said, because the oil is thinner and any 'freer' flowing exhaust mod that went with an engine power upgrade would mean that oil could seep past the turbo shaft clearance, because the change in back pressure in the exhaust wasn't keeping it in check, i.e stopping it, when the owners changed to 5w-30 the issue stopped.
 
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