Tapping 2.7

Billy0090

Billy0090

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hey guys!
New here and new to the Audi world! First post asking for help sorry!
Had my Audi a few weeks and I’ve notices a metallic raspy tapping noise only under partial acceleration between 30-45 mph. It doesn’t occur under full throttle , just when I’m kind of feathering at quarter.
I’ve been told it could be poor oil causing the followers to tap - oil change is due next month so I’m doing that tomorrow with good oil.
Also been told it could be the weld breaking off the exhaust guard between the front sections

Any help or advice appreciated thank you

It’s an Audi A4 2.7 auto 140k miles
 
Its really hard to tell what it might be.
Could you get someone to help you by sitting in the car while stationary and trying the throttle at different positions while you are in the engine bay trying to narrow down the location of the metallic tapping?
 
got my mechanic on it now, he found the exhaust bracket which is spring loaded missing 2 nuts, hes hoping its just that.
how ever it had an engine warning light come on this morning with the below fault codes, mostly relating to glow plug circuit, he advised i might have the swirl flap issue?

could any one elaborate ?

Fault codes;
P210500 - INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER POSITION SENSOR
PO67200 - CYLINDER 2 GLOW PLUG CIRCUIT
PO67300 - CYLINDER 3 GLOW PLUG CIRCUIT
PO67300 - CYLINDER 5 GLOW PLUG CIRCUIT
Also clylinder 2 but cant read the code as its blury.

thanks
 
Billy0090 said:
got my mechanic on it now, he found the exhaust bracket which is spring loaded missing 2 nuts, hes hoping its just that.
how ever it had an engine warning light come on this morning with the below fault codes, mostly relating to glow plug circuit, he advised i might have the swirl flap issue?

could any one elaborate ?

Fault codes;
P210500 - INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER POSITION SENSOR
PO67200 - CYLINDER 2 GLOW PLUG CIRCUIT
PO67300 - CYLINDER 3 GLOW PLUG CIRCUIT
PO67300 - CYLINDER 5 GLOW PLUG CIRCUIT
Also clylinder 2 but cant read the code as its blury.

thanks
Click to expand...
That one does look like a swirl flap problem.
 
Yeah P210500 is the swirl flap issue.
I cant tell if that is the left bank or right but better to replace both at the same time. Get the part from audi direct, unbelievably its cheaper from them than anywhere online!

You'll see a lot of guides that say that you need to remove all sorts of bits to change the rods but I've managed it a few times now without having to remove much. Drivers side is most definitely the most challenging but I used a nifty cable tie trick that I read on this forum and it makes it a doddle to replace. The only issue I've ever had is initially getting the metal clip off of the manifold side. It just wouldn't come out first time I did it. I ended up breaking the whole plastic ball (luckily the plastic was quite brittle) and then one side of the metal clip and this enabled me to get it out.
 
Ok next questions
How much are the parts and how long would a garage quote to do it? I’m not going to do it myself.
Ball park cost for job?

Isit best to just remove them and get them mapped out ?
 
Also I just spoke to a garage who advised the flaps are metal and what they do is just remap the ecu to permenantly keep then open!? The cost of this is 220. Sound right to you?
 
Billy0090 said:
Also I just spoke to a garage who advised the flaps are metal and what they do is just remap the ecu to permenantly keep then open!? The cost of this is 220. Sound right to you?
Click to expand...
That's roughly what I paid in 2012 to map out the fault on a B7 3.0TDi, so the ECU wouldn't report a problem. But that was in the days when the only repair was a complete new manifold at £450 per side, plus fitting. These days, you can get a repair kit for about £20.
 
I think the repair kits are about £12 per side now from Audi so not expensive at all.
I would imagine a garage would probably charge for half a day? I would think that they will deem that all sorts of parts need removing to replace them (technically they do but there are ways around removing parts if you're doing it DIY).

The swirl flap rods have metal shafts but plastic ends. Its the plastic ends that connect with each other and cause wear which then throw the EML.

Remapping them out is a good option. You will lose some torque in the low end but I don't think you'll notice that. My warning went when I replaced the rods. If it came on again I would probably get them mapped out.
 
kanecullen89 said:
I think the repair kits are about £12 per side now from Audi so not expensive at all.
I would imagine a garage would probably charge for half a day? I would think that they will deem that all sorts of parts need removing to replace them (technically they do but there are ways around removing parts if you're doing it DIY).

The swirl flap rods have metal shafts but plastic ends. Its the plastic ends that connect with each other and cause wear which then throw the EML.

Remapping them out is a good option. You will lose some torque in the low end but I don't think you'll notice that. My warning went when I replaced the rods. If it came on again I would probably get them mapped out.
Click to expand...
Of course, if you combine the mapping out of the fault code with a power remap, (which is what I did in 2012) you won't miss any lost torque because there'll be more torque. :)
 
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Guys you’ve all been great really appreciate the advice. I’m probably going to get them mapped out ( perm open ) and get a power map done. Been quoted 240 for this at a place in London. Does any one know any places around the West Midlands or midlands to get it done ? I’m based in Shrewsbury , I will drive to London if I have too
 
Last edited:
@Billy0090 , welcome to the forum, mate; glad we've helped you, it's what we're here for and why the forum thrives. :).

As to a location for your remap, have a word with @Rick @ Unicorn Motor Dev. I don't know his exact location but it's Cheshire way if I remember righttly, so surely nearer to you than London. He's a forum sponsor and mapping guru.
 
Cheers :)
I’ve read that if you map the flaps out it’s going to block up the DPF a lot quicker ?
 
Billy0090 said:
Cheers :)
I’ve read that if you map the flaps out it’s going to block up the DPF a lot quicker ?
Click to expand...

No I don’t think that’s the case. If you map out the egr valve then it will destroy your dpf real quick but the swirl flaps have no effect on the dpf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
thanks guys :) - drove car for about an hour last night, no warning lights and all fine, no rattle either after exhaust bolts replaced :)
getting a friend of mine to do an engine and gearbox remap, and also map the flaps out just to be safe at the end of the month:)
 
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