Stock speaker confusion

Andy_M · Mar 9, 2016

Hi,

Apologies if this should be in the I.C.E. section but it is 8P specific...

I have a 2007 8P 2.0TDI and my build sticker returns the following code:
8RU = Sound system with subwoofer "branded"

I have the double DIN Concert head unit (I think it's the ConcertII+) and reading around the consensus seems to be that all A3's of this age came with a subwoofer/amp setup.

However, I've just checked the boot and there is no obvious subwoofer in the side pods of the boot lining from what I can see, no grille/exit or anything. Is it a stealth system or does my car in fact not have a sub/amp at all? Very confused. I've had a google for images and can't find a clear photo of what it should look like in situ.

I'm trying to work it out as I'm weighing up either:

a) Doing the AUX mod on the stock head unit just to get my phone connected
b) Spending some money on an aftermarket unit so I can use bluetooth, handsfree and easy dash charging

However I'd like to know what I'm getting myself into as I've read that the stock subwoofer/rears setup can cause some hassles with third part units and I don't want to fork out the cash if it's going to be a hassle getting it all working.

Happy to post up some photos if it helps.

Cheers,
Andy

Orange225 · Mar 9, 2016

It's behind the trim in the boot, left hand side

audismart · Mar 9, 2016

Have you got the Bose system? will be on your front door speakers. Not the sub I might add just the make.

SootySport · Mar 9, 2016

Turn the volume up more than normal. You should be able to hear the sub banging away on the left, when you open the rear hatch

Andy_M · Mar 9, 2016

Thanks. I did exactly as you suggested when I got home and can hear it's there. Cheers for the help. Need to check which adaptors I need now.

And no, not got the Bose system. Half tempted with a retrofit if it's going to be a big improvement though.

SootySport · Mar 9, 2016

Bose is not all that it cracked up to be. retrofitting it is a big, big job. You're be better off with the stock version like me and adjusting the tone controls to suit.

I've recently fitted a Dynavin HU. It's a bit expensive at £520 and the sound quality improved over the Concert 2. Has all the toys like ipod and iphone connectivity, Sat nav, Bluetooth and no coding to the car required. Just slots straight in and no fitting kit to buy.

The OE Audi rnse is a bit more again and a couple forum users can set this up for you.

The Cheaper HU's about £250 to £300 have been used by other forum members, radio reception is pants but they do work with the sub woofer in the boot, the fader has to be adjusted to lift the volume of the rears and sub. I know. as I tried the cheaper one before and didn't like it, luckily got a refund.
You get what you pay for I guess.

Chrisk1993 · Mar 9, 2016

Andy_M said:
Thanks. I did exactly as you suggested when I got home and can hear it's there. Cheers for the help. Need to check which adaptors I need now.

And no, not got the Bose system. Half tempted with a retrofit if it's going to be a big improvement though.

From what I've read Bose retrofit isn't worth it in the slightest as it's a full re-wire from speakers to amp from amp to stereo all with the oem wiring, and i think it runs a different module too, to equalize the sound then code it all in to the stereo.

Just upgrade the speakers, I changed all mine to JL Audio and it made a huge difference, even compared to my friends with bose.

Chrisk1993 · Mar 9, 2016

Soot1 said:
Bose is not all that it cracked up to be. retrofitting it is a big, big job. You're be better off with the stock version like me and adjusting the tone controls to suit.

I've recently fitted a Dynavin HU. It's a bit expensive at £520 and the sound quality improved over the Concert 2. Has all the toys like ipod and iphone connectivity, Sat nav, Bluetooth and no coding to the car required. Just slots straight in and no fitting kit to buy.

The OE Audi rnse is a bit more again and a couple forum users can set this up for you.

The Cheaper HU's about £250 to £300 have been used by other forum members, radio reception is pants but they do work with the sub woofer in the boot, the fader has to be adjusted to lift the volume of the rears and sub. I know. as I tried the cheaper one before and didn't like it, luckily got a refund.
You get what you pay for I guess.

Someone has found the fix for the rear speaker and subwoofer and aerial problems for the cheaper models it's on the forums somewhere, but they are a pain to setup the android part but once it's done they run really well, so i've heard.

Andy_M · Mar 10, 2016

Thanks, that's certainly scratched the Bose off my list of possibles!

Currently weighing up three options:

a) AUX mod into my Concert II+ and work out the charge wiring (probably hardwire something in) and forego handsfree altogether
b) Do the XCarlink install and keep the Concert II+ for a stock look but gain iPhone connection and hands free
c) Get a mechless digital media aftermarket headunit (with BT hands free and charging on board) and an adaptor to work with the rears/amp

I'll attack the speaker/sub setup later on as I need to keep the spend down initially (I have a new baby) and actually the stock setup sounds better than I expected to be honest.

Sayam · Mar 10, 2016

If it were my car I'd fit AUX to the standard head unit and keep it

Andy_M · Mar 12, 2016

Sayam said:
If it were my car I'd fit AUX to the standard head unit and keep it

I'm inclined to agree with you, certainly the aftermarket is starting to sound like more hassle than it's worth and I like the stock unit's looks/sound enough to retain it. Only think I'm thinking is if I go for the XCarLink BT version I can get the best of both worlds with the hands-free functionality too (bit pricey compared to the straight AUX though).

mister.c. · Mar 13, 2016

This time last year I was considering upgrades to the sound in my A3 which does not have BOSE. In the end I went with new front speakers (keeping stock head unit). I also felt the relatively high level of noise of my A3 wasn't helping. I'd not driven it for a couple of years (was driving the wife's car) so came back to it a bit like a new car.

So a little different to your needs but one thing I learnt doing that which you might want to do is sound deadening in your doors. Costs relatively little and might lead to you never 'attacking the speaker set up', as I'm sure you'll hear improvements by doing it. I got it done during the install but it seemed relatively straight forward to do diy. I also read a few posts on here where other people had done it and noticed improvement. Myself, I also put deadening and insulation in the boot and choose quieter tyres when they needed doing last Dec. All made a small but noticeable difference too. And it means I'm much happier all round, with audio and other sound.

Andy_M · Mar 13, 2016

Cheers. I think I'm going to go down a similar path to be honest. Think I'm going to put a pair of Focals in the front (or look at fitting my KEF KAR comps which are old but amazing!) and stick the with stock setup elsewhere. Great shout on the sound deadening, I've done it in most of my previous cars and it always is a benefit.

illogik · Mar 13, 2016

I did a full Focal 165 replacement with a JL w6v3 6.5 mini-sub upgrade for the boot. Sounds amazing, and there's plenty of power in the stock amps (headunit and boot) to cleanly drive the set.

One thing to note - because the Focals sound so good, you'll instantly note how muddy the stocks in the rear are (especially because of the driver's seating position). Options are to replace the rears too (which is what I did), or disconnect the rears (but lose half the sound stage).

Andy_M · Mar 13, 2016

illogik said:
I did a full Focal 165 replacement with a JL w6v3 6.5 mini-sub upgrade for the boot. Sounds amazing, and there's plenty of power in the stock amps (headunit and boot) to cleanly drive the set.

Ah! I didn't know the JL was a like-for-like swap! I'll probably do that as well then. I haven't got one but they are popular in the MR2 Owners Club too as they are small enough that you can fit them under the dash (and therefore actually get some pressure in a convertible). Thanks for the tip!

illogik said:
One thing to note - because the Focals sound so good, you'll instantly note how muddy the stocks in the rear are (especially because of the driver's seating position). Options are to replace the rears too (which is what I did), or disconnect the rears (but lose half the sound stage).

Fair point. I'll probably just do the lot when the time comes then.

Think I'm going to order basic Connects2 aux box for now for the headunit and then see how I get on, I'm due the new iPhone in September and rumour has it that it will no longer include a 3.5mm headphone jack which means I'll have to go for something with A2DP anyway.

Sayam · Mar 14, 2016

illogik said:
because the Focals sound so good, you'll instantly note how muddy the stocks in the rear are (especially because of the driver's seating position). Options are to replace the rears too (which is what I did), or disconnect the rears (but lose half the sound stage).

All you have to do is disconnect the rear tweeter - the offending item - as it's location high up in the door means you hear it first.

mister.c. · Mar 16, 2016

Andy_M said:
I'm inclined to agree with you, certainly the aftermarket is starting to sound like more hassle than it's worth and I like the stock unit's looks/sound enough to retain it. Only think I'm thinking is if I go for the XCarLink BT version I can get the best of both worlds with the hands-free functionality too (bit pricey compared to the straight AUX though).

I suppose I'm a bit old school - the thing I wanted was better sounding audio. Not amazing, but better. I didn't want/need Sat Nav. Or anything linking to my phone for any reason other than phone calls. I'm happy with the 16GB memory stick in the glovebox set up & the CD player the Concert has. So whilst I'm no lover of the Concerts looks, I like the DIS, multifunctional controls, the strong radio reception and the physical buttons. And when I looked at some of the looks of the non sat nav headunits, the Concert didnt look too bad!

And like you mentioned, when I looked into all the many threads on after market Head Units, I saw a lot of confusing stuff and lots of tails of woe. I consulted a specialist who fitted the kit and after a bit of thinking then the speaker upgrade and sound deadening made sense. They also recommended an amplifier but didnt go for it. 9 months on I'm still occasionally tempted to tinker with a head unit or a amplifier but I think thats just my modification tourettes!

Keep us informed with what you do - might give us an idea or two!

Boud · Mar 18, 2018

Andy_M said:
Thanks, that's certainly scratched the Bose off my list of possibles!

Currently weighing up three options:

c) Get a mechless digital media aftermarket headunit (with BT hands free and charging on board) and an adaptor to work with the rears/amp.

Is there anyway that someone tell me about that adaptor. I’m struggling a bit since I changed my headunit for a new Pionneer Avh-2300 NEX. No sound came from my rear speakers. I now understand that my rear speaker are driven by an amp, but how do I connect them to my new headunit.

I’m trying to find where it is explain on the forum, but can’t find it...

Thank you guys

Andy1.8T-- · Mar 18, 2018

Boud said:
Is there anyway that someone tell me about that adaptor. I’m struggling a bit since I changed my headunit for a new Pionneer Avh-2300 NEX. No sound came from my rear speakers. I now understand that my rear speaker are driven by an amp, but how do I connect them to my new headunit.

I’m trying to find where it is explain on the forum, but can’t find it...

Thank you guys

I could do with knowing this too. Ive put a Sony head unit in my turbo but ended up with only front speakers working? Possibly hard wire them in? As well as some 6x9s on the shelf?
2x12" enclosed subwoofers in the boot. That should do it. Lol.
Thats my sound plans.
Keep us posted if you find out to do them rear speakers!! Tia

Sent from my LG-M160 using Tapatalk

Boud · Mar 18, 2018

Andy1.8T-- said:
I could do with knowing this too. Ive put a Sony head unit in my turbo but ended up with only front speakers working? Possibly hard wire them in? As well as some 6x9s on the shelf?
2x12" enclosed subwoofers in the boot. That should do it. Lol.
Thats my sound plans.
Keep us posted if you find out to do them rear speakers!! Tia

Sent from my LG-M160 using Tapatalk

Just to add a little bit more, I use the Maeastro Rr from iData Link to manage my steering wheel and it is also link on my obd2. Can I keep that part even if they say that they do not retain the OEM amp or I will have to remove it from my audio setup?

Thank you again!

leonwilliams · Mar 19, 2018

Andy1.8T-- said:
I could do with knowing this too. Ive put a Sony head unit in my turbo but ended up with only front speakers working? Possibly hard wire them in? As well as some 6x9s on the shelf?
2x12" enclosed subwoofers in the boot. That should do it. Lol.
Thats my sound plans.
Keep us posted if you find out to do them rear speakers!! Tia

Sent from my LG-M160 using Tapatalk

Hi I have 2011 sportback none bose but amp and sub I got and android system. No issues with rear speaker it came with all the correct connectors. I believe you need a control wire to switch the amp on. Back in the day we would use the blue wire that turned the amp on .check for this wire

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Boud · Mar 19, 2018

leonwilliams said:
Hi I have 2011 sportback none bose but amp and sub I got and android system. No issues with rear speaker it came with all the correct connectors. I believe you need a control wire to switch the amp on. Back in the day we would use the blue wire that turned the amp on .check for this wire

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Wich harness have you used to make this work?

leonwilliams · Mar 19, 2018

Boud said:
Wich harness have you used to make this work?

I have a pumpkin head unit with quadlock mate. I did so much research before I bought my unit from pumpkin audio. I actually bought a extra lead prepared for the worse but it was ok. Halfords sell the lead it's about £20 quid I think. I already knew about the sound issue.

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Boud · Mar 19, 2018

https://forums.audipassion.com/uplo...9(1).JPG.58e21392f62dd98b8d569f54da61db1b.JPG

Here os the diagram of the OEM radio!

Is Halfords a company from UK? Never heard of this since I live in Canada

I’m sure that if I can find the right wire to plug... Anyone knows here?

leonwilliams · Mar 19, 2018

Boud said:
https://forums.audipassion.com/uplo...9(1).JPG.58e21392f62dd98b8d569f54da61db1b.JPG

Here os the diagram of the OEM radio!

Is Halfords a company from UK? Never heard of this since I live in Canada

I’m sure that if I can find the right wire to plug... Anyone knows here?

Hi yes it is a company in the UK. Might have in Canada. I had a quick look and you have a blue wire which is amp turn on. When you go from factory to after market it does alter the configuration if the wires. To get a just of what I mean Google make of your car and issues IE a3 8p rear speaker issues that should fetch up loads m. Also put your headunit up with issues that should help mate.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Boud · Mar 19, 2018

leonwilliams said:
Hi yes it is a company in the UK. Might have in Canada. I had a quick look and you have a blue wire which is amp turn on. When you go from factory to after market it does alter the configuration if the wires. To get a just of what I mean Google make of your car and issues IE a3 8p rear speaker issues that should fetch up loads m. Also put your headunit up with issues that should help mate.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Thank you for your support LeonWilliams: I'll keep in touch when the problem will be solve

The worst part in my situation, is that a paid an installation shop for 3 hours to install my headunit, unable to make it work, did it all again by myself, went a bit further with the problem, but I'm stuck here...

I have never seen a radio that hard to install in my life!

leonwilliams · Mar 19, 2018

Boud said:
Thank you for your support LeonWilliams: I'll keep in touch when the problem will be solve

The worst part in my situation, is that a paid an installation shop for 3 hours to install my headunit, unable to make it work, did it all again by myself, went a bit further with the problem, but I'm stuck here...

I have never seen a radio that hard to install in my life!

That's so strange iso connectors are so easy. Most just plug and play. Feel your pain mate pay for job to be done. And they can't get it right I would be screwing. Bet they still charged you for it. Hope you get it sorted.

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Boud · Mar 19, 2018

leonwilliams said:
That's so strange iso connectors are so easy. Most just plug and play. Feel your pain mate pay for job to be done. And they can't get it right I would be screwing. Bet they still charged you for it. Hope you get it sorted.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

FOR NOW... NOOOOOO. I just need to send some signal (rca) to the back amp and a signal to turn this amp on and that will be it. But wich one is the good wire, I don't know

Andy1.8T-- · Mar 19, 2018

The blue remote wire or power antenna wire would be the one to run to the amp. Trace the colour wire from the amp in the rear to the front or feed a wire fron the amp to said remote/power antenna wire.
Should be problem solved mate

Sent from my LG-M160 using Tapatalk

leonwilliams · Mar 19, 2018

Andy1.8T-- said:
The blue remote wire or power antenna wire would be the one to run to the amp. Trace the colour wire from the amp in the rear to the front or feed a wire fron the amp to said remote/power antenna wire.
Should be problem solved mate

Sent from my LG-M160 using Tapatalk

Well said mate I looked at back of his unit dishes and there is a remote blue wire.

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Boud · Mar 19, 2018

Andy1.8T-- said:
The blue remote wire or power antenna wire would be the one to run to the amp. Trace the colour wire from the amp in the rear to the front or feed a wire fron the amp to said remote/power antenna wire.
Should be problem solved mate

Sent from my LG-M160 using Tapatalk

There is actually a blue "remote" wire that goes from the back of my unit...
Do I plug it there?
What about the signal from the rear speakers? Where do I send it?

leonwilliams · Mar 19, 2018

Boud said:
There is actually a blue "remote" wire that goes from the back of my unit...
Do I plug it there?
What about the signal from the rear speakers? Where do I send it?

The blue wire connects to the amp it's a remote to switch the amp on. If you are unsure go to an audio shop ask them mate there usually quite good and will possible do a small drawing for you

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Boud · Mar 19, 2018

Super, I’llngo there tomorrow then.

Thank you again guys!

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