Engine rebuild

You may want to be a little more specific about your requirements before speaking to Bill of course...

Are you doing just a bottom end rebuild or planning to refurb the head too? what is the aim of the rebuild? are you rebuilding just to 'refurb' or looking to increase power? if increasing power what are you looking for power wise?

This makes a difference in the approach to sourcing parts... I have documented my engine build fairly well in my build thread...

Rebuild could be anything from new rings, shells and seals to a full on stroker with reboring, ARP studs etc...

When I rebuild the bottom end on mine I replaced everything...

My parts list was something along the lines of:
bigend shells
mains shells
rods
pistons (inc rings and pins)
oil pump
oil pump chain
oil pump tensioner
TFSI crank (stroker)
crank bolt
oil squirters and oil squirter bolts
front and rear crank seals
ARP mains studs (would use them over OE bolts on any level of build tbh)
Head bolts
head gasket
water pump
timing belt kit
oil and filter
oil filter housing gasket
cam cover gasket set

Then if adding in a head refurb:
stem seals

Machining stuff that will be required:
Rebore (83mm is normally more expensive as it needs to be done in two passes)
Reface block
valve guide replacement
maybe seats recutting depending on wear
reface of head

There are a few other things that tbh I can't remember off hand (like new flywheel bolts etc)... not going to be cheap either way to do it right so work out what you need from it then spec accordingly

<tuffty/>

DaveS384 said:

Ok so that link isn't working for me so I'll have to have a look when I get home from work, but thanks for the info. I'm just getting to the point where I might just rebuild it to solve my misfire/boost problem whatever the hell it is.. just gonna try another new maf coz I think the one I got is dodgy.. ****** cars ay... lol

Click to expand...

https://www.facebook.com/Badger5Ltd

Try this link...

<tuffty/>

Bill has just done an engine rebuild on an S3 that came in for just rods... ended up having the head refurbed and a bottom end build...

Ironically that had a misfire which turned out to be a combo of oil being drawn in through very tired valve guides/stem seals and badly worn bores...

Bill did the head refurb initially as it was in a pretty bad state and this highlighted the bore issues

If doing a refresh type rebuild then I'd advise the following:
rebore with new pistons to suit size, rods, oil pump + pickup, oil pump chain tensioner (they are plastic and go brittle) and a head refurb consisting of new exhaust guides (inlets tend to be ok) with new stem seals and lapping valves in

Obvs you will still need all the bolts, shells and gaskets etc I listed.. you could get away with OE mains bolts on that level of build but tbh for the price difference I would use ARP mains studs... use OE head bolts though as these are fine for the level of power you are at...

<tuffty/>

antwan64og said:

Tufty I don't suppose you know at what power:
are ARP Head bolts recommended?
is a fluid damper recommended?
is a crank girdle recommemded?

Click to expand...

Its power/torque and application you need to consider...

I have used OE head bolts on my previous setup (circa 400hp/320ftlbs) but with the stroker build and larger turbo I have now then realistically ARP are a sensible choice although arguably the way I plan to sort the mapping and its use (a road car) I probably would be ok on OE head bolts.. high cylinder pressure will ultimately dictate if the head lifts or not and this is normally from high boost/timing advance applications and sudden onset of load etc...

That said I would say if building an engine for 400+ I would be recommending ARP anyway... I just used OE bolts as I was tight...

Fluid damper is application/spec based IMO... Bill runs one on his Ibiza but its a blueprinted engine thats fully balanced with cams and can rev to 9k... most BT builds have a limit of around 7.8k as most are on std cams and they typically make peak power around 7k... no point on having a rev limit beyond the power your engine is capable of and the std damper seems up to the job... if you plan to be in the higher RPM's most of the time (like Bill's is when he is racing) then there are advantages to using a fluid damper... the stock one is essentially a lump of rubber and is therefore prone to degradation over time (as all rubber things are)... don't entertain these stupid alloy 'power pulleys' though as the crank NEEDS a damped pulley of some description

Girdles tend not to get much use in this country... the yanks love them of course for whatever reason but again if you are building an engine for extreme motorsport use then they have a place... particularly on a 4WD high boost/torque drag setup... on FWD you would just spin torque onset away until you had enough grip so there is less stress on the components..

Point is there is no set figure for this type of kit... you build the engine based on power expectation and use... all the kit above (with the exception maybe of the ARP stuff which while on the subject I am a fan of ARP mains studs over OE bolts on any build if you are in a position to change them) is optional depending on what the intention is with the package

Its easy to spank money on a build but its pointless wasting money unless the application warrants it IMO...

<tuffty/>