Recent content by SmithyAG

Who knows, it was going to fail either way. Funny you should dig this thread up, as it's replacement snapped it's turbine shaft last week, so now on turbo number 3.

Underboost is usually a leak, but if they cant find one then it shouldnt be that. You should also now be able to rule out the MAP sensor (the boost pressure sensor they replaced). I'm not sure if it could be the cause but it could be worth unplugging the MAF and seeing if the issue persists...

Not normally local, I'm from Manchester but took a new job with a company based in Nottingham, so during my training/induction they've got me a flat on Mansfield Road, and a car parking space at Huntingdon Street car park, and i was just thinking the other day, all the car parks round here seem...

Out of interest which car park was it @notta3 ?

Set them the same first then hold auto for minimum 2 seconds, should mean that the drivers temperature control then controls both sides.

CV joints click when they are on their way out. I change the inner and outer nearside joints on mine and it improved/went away for a while and now it's back to as loud as it was before. I can only think mine needs the offside joints changing too or it's the top mounts that are actually making...

Which engine, 140 or 170bhp? 140 does suffer from a few culprits for coolant loss, EGR cooler is most common followed by pouros/cracked cylinder head. At that age the rad could be suspect too, as they corrode in the corners and start to leak coolant. Alternative view could be that it is...

They can apparently be more rattley at idle. Also read horror stories of cranks snapping due to being improperly balanced with SMF where a DMF should have been used. No idea if there is any truth in that though.

5 mins may be a tad long but I wouldn't worry about it, air needs to flow over the radiator (air con condenser). There is only so much air the fans can pull through when you are stationary, driving massively increases the airflow.

The mg/h is fuel flow correction, so mg/H iirc is milligrams per stroke. It is the amount the injector has varied it's flow to keep it running as smooth as possible. So a negative amount just means it has allowed a little less fuel through to smooth it out, and a positive the opposite.

Fan controller is located in the large fan, however when it goes it usually causes both fans to run full speed constantly even after engine shut off (well mine did at least). I also found no replacement fans available separately, had to replace the whole lot.

Hopefully it's just one of those things, least you're getting sorted.

The S3 needs 504.00/507.00 oil, one is not "higher" than the other, they are just the relevant numbers for petrol/diesel. 505.01 is the older oil (generally 5w/40) which the pump-duse diesel engines were originally on, most of which were revised to be on 504.00/507.00 (5w/30). 505.01 is not...

You will hear every answer you can imagine about DMF's. In reality you won't know if you need to replace it until you remove the gearbox and measure run-out and end float. The reason people advise replacing it when the gearbox is off is if it fails after you fit a new clutch it takes the clutch...

Anyway of inspecting the pedal mechanism? Can't say i've ever looked at one in any detail, might be worth a try.