Recent content by hardhitter

Thanks for the replies. VCDS is proper copy and I've two key remotes. Can you clarify the last part of the coding sequence Aragorn ? It looks different to other methods I've seen online.

Hi, I've just replaced the central locking control unit on my brothers A4 1.8 TQS. It's been replaced with the same part number (the one ending in E) but I can't code the keys to the replacement module. I've got VCDS and using the method of going into central locking adaptation as per this...

Managed to sort it using a long piece of clear pipe up into a can of fluid above the reservoir got most of the air out with power bleeder and then pumped the air out with pedal. Found the method on youtube. Might be useful for anyone else who got nowhere with a power bleeder alone.

Having trouble bleeding my clutch after fitting a new one. Tried pressure bleeder at 10 PSI, then 5-7 PSI (seem to work better) and letting the air out naturally. Got a bit of pedal there, then it went again. Used over 1.5L of fluid and seem to be getting nowhere. Should I try a one way bleeder...

I believe the 5 and 10 teeth are the starter motor's and so have to have the corresponding flywheel ring so they mesh. It goes on chassis number, which you can see on ECP. They are a lot cheaper than Audi for the LuK part. Make sure you get the CSC (concentric slave cylinder) too.

It had rusted to the base plate on the trailing arm (well the broken part did !) anyway I did free that off and get it out. Maybe it needs a bit of lubrication on the plate and I probably need to apply more pulling force if that's the case... If I manage to get the old one out, I can't see me...

I'm trying to replace the o/s/r spring on mine and can't do it by just unbolting the shock/droplink and pushing down on the trailing arm. Can't get the spring compressors in there either. Do you need to loosen the driveshaft nut when taking off the tie arms from the rear hub. Are the tie arms a...

Can anyone tell me the bolt torque for the manifold to turbo bolts ? Cheers

Ok, would I need to take the turbo out and tighten them up on the workbech ? Or can they be done in situ. Mine is blowing and looking at tackling it this weekend. Anyone got the turbo to manifold bolt torque ? Cheers

Does anyone know the torque required for tightening the inserts, also the bolts ? Cheers

I may have found something: KOBSERT® threaded bushes for metals - Böllhoff They do an M10 internal thread with M14x1.5 outer thread. Just depends on the shoulder size as you would want the insert to bite into the housing. If these work, do I get a prize ? :cool:

Because of the way the back box is on these Milltek's (for the 8L S3 anyway) they are quiet and not boomy as a non-res system. There was a pic on the forum somewhere where someone had cut open the rear silencer to see what was inside. The perforated pipe goes along the silencer and loops back...

Sounds like another casualty of the long life service, such a shame. Taking the sump off and checking and cleaning the pick-up pipe isnt a massive job. Hopefully you don't need an engine rebuild.

Don't drive it until you have found out what the problem is. If there isn't already engine damage you may do some by driving it. If the oil level is fine, check the oil pressure. As mentioned above a culprit for causing low oil pressure is a clogged up oil strainer pickup.

That's the last time I go on the M60 !