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RNS-E & Bluetooth Module Installation

Discussion in 'A3/S3/Sportback (8P Chassis)' started by max69vk, Jun 27, 2012.

  1. max69vk
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    max69vk Active Member

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    [Jun 27, 2012]
    Now that I've got the car back I'm getting cracking with installing all of the parts I've bought for it. First job on the list is to install the RNSE 'G' unit & a Bluetooth 'H' module at the same time.

    As a sense check can someone confirm that I've got my wiring instructions correct before I go splicing anything (or even start coding). Also what is the co-ax type cable from the module for, should this be joined to the RNSE aerial (see bottom pic)?

    (wiring from BT unit, to...)
    Red cable - pin A15
    Brown cable - pin A12
    Violet & Black cable - pin A11
    Pink & Black cable - pin A10
    Pink cable - pin A9
    Grey cable - pin C12
    Violet cable - pin C6
    Blue cable - pin B5

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2012
    #1
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  3. max69vk
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    max69vk Active Member

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    [Jun 27, 2012]
    Ok, so no ideas then.... Any clues about the co-ax cable?
    #2
  4. areeb1
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    areeb1 Member

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    [Jun 28, 2012]
    Hi,

    I am not sure if you have sorted this by now but here goes

    I had the exact same harness. The coaxial cable connects to the microphone and the inside wire is positive and the outer wire is the negative. If you have a coaxial cable, chances are your microphone doesn't have a plug on the end of it. Therefore solder the positive of the coaxial cable to the positive on microphone and likewise for the negative. Thread the cable to the light fixture first then solder.


    On the top of the RNS-E there is a wiring diagram, with the connectors blocks labelled. USING THAT DIAGRAM and not the one you have, the cables should connect as follows,

    RED- goes to rnse PIN 15 D
    BROWN- goes to PIN 12D
    GREY- goes to PIN 12C
    GREY WITH BLACK - goes to PIN 6C
    BLUE - goes to PIN 5B
    VIOLET WITH BLACK - goes to PIN 11D
    PINK - goes to PIN 9D
    PINK WITH BLACK - goes to PIN 10D


    Hope that helps !

    Regards,
    Areeb

    Also don't use scotch clips, big mistake. Solder the cables as they are very small/thin and the clips might not make a good connection.
    #3
  5. max69vk
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    max69vk Active Member

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    [Jun 28, 2012]
    Cool, thanks for the info, I'm guessing the mic cable (co-ax) is only needed if I activate SDS via the RNSE? I was pretty sure all A3 8P's had the wiring loom for the roof mic installed even if the mic wasn't?

    EDIT* Looks like I need to buy some cable for the mic, anyone know if a a particular type of cable is required & where to get it from? Im guessing I'll also need the connector for the mic connection too anyon with ETKA got the part number?

    Pretty good fitment guide here:- http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10357287/guides/Retrofit Audi OEM Bluetooth.pdf
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2012
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  6. max69vk
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    max69vk Active Member

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    [Jun 28, 2012]
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2012
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  7. a6_chris
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    a6_chris Well-Known Member

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    [Jun 28, 2012]
    You could've bought a plug n play unit from eBay which I have and does the job 100% with no wiring needed except coding.
    #6
  8. max69vk
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    max69vk Active Member

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    [Jun 28, 2012]
    I did apparently....

    Mind you the kit I bought was £100 cheaper than any of the others available & for the sake of a £3 piece of co-ax & a bit of soldering I think I can live with it. :blush:
    #7
  9. VWAddict
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    VWAddict Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 28, 2012]
    I did this a few years ago, when there were no plug-and-play versions for sale that would ship to the USA...

    They shipped me a wiring harness with it that had sticky labels on the wires... but the adhesive wasn't very sticky, and the labels were very 'springy' and almost all of them straighened themselves out from their 'folded-over-the-wire' position, and detached, or gummed themselve onto OTHER wires...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I tried emailing the seller, but heard nothing back. (actually they had been trying to reply, but the origin was a polish arrdess, and my spam filter decided that it wasn't having any of it, and had been deleting them all) In the end I found the wiring code online and was able to fit it.

    Oh yeah... USE TOWELS when soldering/fitting. They're GREAT at preventing scratches, and also for catching any little 'spits' of rosin flux before they burn themselves into the surface of the center console area!

    [​IMG]

    A couple of the wires (like the power ones) have to be 'tapped-in' to existing, occupied pin locations. Do this the RIGHT way. -No 'vampire-taps' or suchlike... solder and heat-shrink. -Always.

    [​IMG]

    Once it was all over, I found that I could hear the caller on the other end, but they couldn't hear me... -Still no email replies from the seller, but I found that by REVERSING the microphone pins... it worked.

    Be mindful of WHERE you revers the pins. -ALWAYS have the braided/lapped shield on the correct pin at the head unit, and -if necessary- reverse it at the MICROPHONE end. -It's VERY important that the shield is connected to GROUND and not bearing the signal, since you'll be highly susceptible to interference otherwise.

    The microphone had a white-plastic 'Molex' type connector instead of the original black-plastic right-angle connector which the factory fits... I have NO idea why this is... but if you find yourself with no signal from your microphone (i.e. you can hear them but THEY can't hear YOU) then you'll need to reverse the connector at the microphone end.

    If you've got the white/translucent type connector at the mic end, then you can actually 'MAKE' it plug in the 'wrong' way round, and just have done with it. -It's not like you'll be disconnecting and reconnecting it ever again... so that's the easiest way of doing it.

    Let us know if you encounter any similar problems!

    Keith
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  10. areeb1
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    areeb1 Member

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    [Jun 30, 2012]
    The coax cable has to be soldered to your mic regardless of sds as otherwise nobody will hear you when on the phone. As for existing wiring, there was none in my car. The slot for the mic is there in the lighting fixture but no cable. I threaded the coax cable up the a pillar through the roof lining and out at the lighting fixture. You don't seem to need to buy anything more as you have everything, it just needs soldering.

    Send me a pm and I can run you through the entire install
    #9
  11. max69vk
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    max69vk Active Member

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    [Jul 3, 2012]
    Thanks for the info guys :)
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  12. alfredjunior12
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    alfredjunior12 New Member

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    [Jul 8, 2014]
    Hi areeb1 please can you help me with what you wrote above in relation to the colour wires that connects to the Bluetooth kit end?

    For example : Brown pin 12D = what PIN number on the Bluetooth end?

    Thanks if anyone can help as my cable colours are rubbish thus only if I follow these pins from both ends will I get it right.

    Cheers
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  13. alfredjunior12
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    alfredjunior12 New Member

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    [Jul 8, 2014]
    Sorry, cable Red to RNS-E 15D = to where(which PIN number at the Bluetooth 32 pin end of the connector to Bluetooth unit)?
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  14. alfredjunior12
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    alfredjunior12 New Member

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    [Jul 8, 2014]
    Hi Max69vk, if you can help with you own cable locations on both RNS-E and Bluetooth 32 connector I will be very grateful.
    #13
  15. alfredjunior12
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    alfredjunior12 New Member

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    [Jul 8, 2014]
    Guys see Bluetooth end connector form
    [​IMG]
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  16. alfredjunior12
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    alfredjunior12 New Member

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    [Jul 8, 2014]
    alfred 2 .jpg

    alfred.jpg
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 8, 2014
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