Window motor problem

clem2192

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I have recently been having problems with my passenger side window (A3 3.2). Seems to be slower on closing and makes a kind of cracking noise when it nears the last few inches.

I have tried the reset (hold the button for a few seconds when closed) to no avail.

I recently got hold of a replacement window motor, thought I'd give this a go before giving it to my mechanic to have the regulator checked and it diagnosed properly.

I purchased a motor with exactly the same part number as my existing motor however when I came to fit it at the weekend, the windows worked in reverse (i.e close was open and open was close) on both the drive and passenger switch.

Does anyone know why this would be and how if possible I can sort this problem out?

Nice One!

Ryan
 
You don't say what year your car is but it sounds like you have a motor for the drivers door not passenger door. According to the parts catalogue the number for a 2006 model should be :-
8P0 959 802 H.
Drivers door should be 801 H
Only other suggestion would be to try and swap over the control wires in the connector. Find which is live when going up and which is live when going down and swap them !

Good luck !
 
Sorry it's a 2003 (53).
I have matched the part numbers up from the one that is already in the car (8P0 959 802 A). I am confused as to how this problem exists if the part numbers match!

Ryan
 
Although it's a 53 reg it could be a 2004 model year. Is it an 8L chassis or an 8P chassis ? Is it a 2 door or a 4 door ?

We need the VIN number to identify from the parts catalogue exactly which motor it should have. Probably PR numbers will also be required. Unfortunately there are numerous different window motors so best to check what it SHOULD be first, then try and effect a cure.
 
its an 8P chassis (2dr model).
I can understand what you're saying but I have taken the door card off and got the part number on the existing one. I haven then found a replacement with the same part number so how could these parts differ if they have the same part number?!
 
Got this info from electronic service manual ( Elsawin ). Try this and if no joy I'm sorry but I've run out of ideas !!

After installing the electric motor and attached wiring, first turn the ignition on and then off again. Then raise door window as far as it will go and keep window lifter switch pulled for approx. 2 seconds. The window lifter is now in the basic setting and the opening/closing function is activated.
A57-10030.png
 
I did try the old reset trick but to no avail!! Thanks anyway. Just cant get my head around the fact that I have a replacement part with EXACTLY the same part number as the original and the windows work in reverse!!!!

On another not, I believe my window problem is to do with the the regulator rather than the motor, as the slow closing was still apparent when the new motor was installed.

Does anyone know if Audi do a window regulator repair kit or do I need to replace the whole regulator?

Also if anyone else has any ideas as to why this new motor works in reverse would be great as it is really doing my head in trying to work it out!!
 
All I can guess is that it has been tested to see if it works not connected to the car and maybe the internals have gone too far with nothing to stop it & it popped round making it work in reverse? You might have to open both and compare/look at the cogs inside.
 
That sounds like something I dont want to be getting involved with!! I would rather have one working motor than two in bits :)

Thanks for the information though
 
Just thought - if you take it off and connect it to a 12 volt battery/supply you will be able to see if it runs so far in one direction and then reverses or something ! Clearly there must be a stopping system somewhere inside otherwise it wouldn't stop at the top ! Maybe clutching at straws but anything's worth a try if you can do it easily.
 
I'm not sure how that would help me. It works in both directions when its on the car they are just oppsite from the norm.
 
Because if it hasn't been reset properly (there will be an internal changeover switch somewhere ) perhaps there is a way to do it that would become more obvious if you had it in your hand.

Alternatively you could do what I suggested in my first post and reverse the 'up and down' connections somehow
 

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