is this the wrong oil for my whip ? Says approved for VW codes 505 01/ 502 00/ 505 00. Can't remember what codes apply.
Castrol Edge 5w-40 fully synthetic
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46TheDoctor
Valentino Rossi A.K.A The Doctor
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Neil_S
Registered User
That is for fixed mile servicing, which is fine if you are on fixed mile servicing.
The relevant spec is VW 505.01
The relevant spec is VW 505.01
46TheDoctor said:
I lived in the US for years. All the rappers called their rides whips. Since I am a famous rapper I should too. I know it's 5-30w but really whats the difference ? It is a Castrol fully synthetic after all. My best friend is a mechanic and he says I/car won't know the difference.
I lived in the US for years. All the rappers called their rides whips. Since I am a famous rapper I should too.
EEEERRRRRRRMMMMM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
EEEERRRRRRRMMMMM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
james0808
Registered User
You lot should know by now all the famous rappers,emimem,snoop,dre,fiddy all have A4 TDI Avants,called whips.
james0808
Registered User
james0808
Registered User
The viscosity of the oil,the 30 grade will flow around the engine faster than a 40 grade as its thinner.evo2audi said:
Much better for your engine.
Some reckon it can help with economy too but i havent seen a difference,not saying it cant though.
james0808 said:
That statement about 30 being better than 40 is only accurate if you cover a lot of miles. If your journeys are relatively short or your annual mileage is low then a 5W-40 is better suited than a 5W-30.
Tendaimwari said:
How exactly. If you only cover short distances then your engine will never warm up properly. A 30 grade oil will have a lower viscosity and will pump/flow easier than a 40 grade oil whilst the engine is warming up. therefore oil flow to areas such as the cam shaft etc will be better with a 30 grade oil. A lower viscosity oil will also flow better into the tight clearances in bearings etc so lubricating them better.
One oil isn't better than the other. Synthetic oils are preferred by dealers to maximise drain intervals and help improve fuel consumption. That's very optimistic. I've used Millers 5w40 XFE-PD for years and have little oil use. I drain every 6 months with a new filter.
I used to have a lot more rattling at startup with the 5w30 than I do now. I use the 5w40 purely because of my fixed drain intervals.
I used to have a lot more rattling at startup with the 5w30 than I do now. I use the 5w40 purely because of my fixed drain intervals.
james0808
Registered User
Marko said:
Not sure what you are saying here,are you saying that all oils are the same?
Thats weird because they both have the same cold(start up)viscosity 5w?Marko said:
enda1 said:
If you do high miles and long journey then 30 grade oils are better suited. Hence why you willl always find that AVS, longlife service intervals, oil specs are either 0W-30 or 5W-30. Fixed service interval, low mileage - short runs, oils are 5W-40 or 0W-40.
The important part of the oil grade wrt starting is the "W" part meaning winter. At higher temperatures, seen on long journeys, the 20, 30, 40, 50 and even 60 part of the oil grade comes into effect. I hope this helps.
james0808
Registered User
Tendaimwari said:
Annual mileage has nothing to do with it.
30 will flow better than a 40 as soon as normal operating temperature is reached.
james0808 said:
OK not looking to into any arguments over this. But some food for thoughtr.
If annual milkeage has nothing to do whether a 30 or 40 oil is used. Why does Fixed (40), low mileage intervals, and AVS (30), high mileage intervals, services use different types of oil?
At the end of the day you choose what you use. I am more than happy to use a 5W-40 in my 4.2L engine, which does a low number of miles annually.
james0808
Registered User
Tendaimwari said:
Could it be that the 30 is a much better synthetic oil so doesnt break down as quick?
james0808 said:
Ah the Magic Word synthetic. The important thing with engine oils is the shear stability; the much hyped synthetic or mineral nonsense is a red herring. Sexy marketing speak. The type of oil that is likely to give trouble after low mileage is a light viscosity, your beloved 30, type with poor shear stability, either mineral or modified mineral based.
It is really important to change oil regularly if the engine covers a low annual mileage made up of slow, short run. This is being cruel to the oil and the engine! The oil, regardless of its quality, gets full of fuel and water vapour, and never gets the chance to evaporate it all off with a long fast run. This is even more with "thinner" oils. The consequences are corrosion, ring and bore wear. It is essential to do a change at least once a year, even if the recommended mileage hasnt been covered.
Give Guy at Opie oils a ring and he can explain the differences between oil even further.
james0808
Registered User
You say slow short journeys like an engine doesnt get warm when going slow,it does.Tendaimwari said:
So do you think a mineral will outlast a fully synthetic oil?
It is really important to change oil regular if you do low or galactic miles.
james0808 said:
What is a synthetic oil? Is a "fully synthetic" actully 100% synthetic?
There is no chalk and cheese difference between mineral and synthetic based oils. After all, the chemical compounds which make mineral engine oils so much better are themselves synthetic.
Synthetic lubricant bases are stepwise improvements on mineral oil, with more desirable properties and fewer undesirable ones. The second important point is that there's no one thing called 'synthetic'! There are several different types of synthetic lubricant, and to say something like: 'the Supergrunt GTI TURBO must have a full synthetic' is meaningless unless the 'expert' explains what sort of synthetic he means.
Equally, to imply that dreadful things will happen if the 1970 RV8 is run on anything other than good ole mineral oil is ridiculous. It may not need a 2007 synthetic, but it isn't going to come to any harm if the owner uses a 2007
synthetic!
The most basic type of synthetic is really a special mineral oil. Known as 'hydrocracked' bases, these are made in oil refineries by putting certain types of mineral fraction through special processing, so they cost more than the usual mineral types but not much more. They are useful because they resist evaporation at high temperatures. Although used for years for genuine technical reasons, they are now popular with marketing men because the magic sexy word 'synthetic' can legitimately be printed on the label without spending much on the oil inside the can!
Yes, all low-cost 'synthetics' contain anything from a few percent to 20 percent (i.e. 'semi-synthetic') of special mineral oil. Using fairly simple chemical compounds or gases from oil refineries or other sources, it is possible to 'synthesise' or build up tailor-made lubricant molecules which have very desirable characteristics, such as great resistance to cold, heat, evaporation losses or excessive thinning as they get hot. These are the true synthetics, and the two that are used in engine oils are PAOs (poly alpha olefins) and esters.
Neither is cheap! PAOs are related to mineral oils, and are the ideal carriers for all the chemical compounds used in mineral oils. Because they do not gel at very low temperatures, all genuine 0W-something oils have to be based
on PAOs to pass the 0W test at a sub-arctic -35C.
Esters were originally made for jet engine lubricants, and to this day all jet oils are ester-based. Although similar in performance to PAOs, they have a valuable extra trick: they are good lubricants and help to protect metal surfaces. Esters help with transmission and valve train lubrication. 100% fully synthetic oils are actually quite rare, probably because they are very expensive to make, and even more expensive to buy.
Even so, an ester/PAO with a very shear stable multigrade polymer is the ultimate oil for high output engines that are worked hard, which means racing.
james0808
Registered User
Couldnt be bothered to read all that.
Just had a look at opie oils website and thought i would check what oil they recommended for a 2004 S4 on standard and variable service and both came back exactly the same oil (specification 504.00) castrol edge 5w-30.
Just had a look at opie oils website and thought i would check what oil they recommended for a 2004 S4 on standard and variable service and both came back exactly the same oil (specification 504.00) castrol edge 5w-30.
james0808
Registered User
Thought i would check the opie oil website for your Late 04 A4 Avant 130 sport evo2audi and guess what,it came back again with the same oil for standard and variable service (specification 507.00) Castrol Edge 5w-30.
I wouldnt recommend buying it from there though as you can get it alot cheaper,i paid £54 for 8 litres of castrol edge 5w-30 delivered and they want nearly £45 for 4 litres delivered.
I wouldnt recommend buying it from there though as you can get it alot cheaper,i paid £54 for 8 litres of castrol edge 5w-30 delivered and they want nearly £45 for 4 litres delivered.
Not suprised you could not be bothered to read it because you obviously know it all.
Try calling Opie oils and ask them what oil they would recommend for a 2004 S4 that does less than 10K miles per year.
Thats what I did and they confirmed that a 5W-40 oil is more than good enough. And that is what my "whip" runs on.
Try calling Opie oils and ask them what oil they would recommend for a 2004 S4 that does less than 10K miles per year.
Thats what I did and they confirmed that a 5W-40 oil is more than good enough. And that is what my "whip" runs on.
james0808
Registered User
Tendaimwari said:
Cant be bothered to ring them either.
I dont know it all but i know what i saw on their website.
A 5w-40 may be good enough but who wants good enough,not me.
Normal unleaded is good enough.
Whip.
james0808
Registered User
Tendaimwari said:
I change my oil every 6,000 miles at the most anyway.
Maybe i should be using a 20w-50???
Tendaimwari said:
I have to agree with Tendaimwari. It's in the Audi owners book that 5w40 505.01 is perfectly fine for my car. I'd be more concerned running a 5w30 so called longlife oil in an engine for 2 years... No chance! When I got my car the service was due, previous was two years prior from Audi. I took the oil filter out and it crumbled in my hands. We can argue for ever about the durability of longlife oils, but filters sure don't last.
james0808
Registered User
Marko said:
Wow,ive never seen an oil filter crumble and ive changed loads.
Most people on here will not leave their cars for 2 years before changing the oil and obvisously the filter.
james0808 said:
Yep.. I was quite alarmed as the car had only done 14k!!!! The paper filters (if that's what I can refer to it as) are quite strong but this one gave way as I flicked my fingers on it.
What ever oil you prefer, regular oil and filter changing is a must!! I'm sure many won't argue with that.
james0808
Registered User
Yes,as long as its not still under Audi warranty.Tendaimwari said:
If it makes you happy.Tendaimwari said:
No and i have no intention to with their rip off prices.Are you on commission or what?Tendaimwari said:
james0808
Registered User
