Turbos problem

chewmano

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So, I'm on my 3rd turbo in 1 week. I have a 1.9tdi 2005 sportback. Could there be an engine problem that causes my turbos to fail? This third turbo is a used turbo on 140k km and its starting to hiss a bit again until 2300rpm and then disappears again.. Do i fix it up a bit and sell the car? It has 430k km and i got it a week ago.


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So, I'm on my 3rd turbo in 1 week. I have a 1.9tdi 2005 sportback. Could there be an engine problem that causes my turbos to fail? This third turbo is a used turbo on 140k km and its starting to hiss a bit again until 2300rpm and then disappears again.. Do i fix it up a bit and sell the car? It has 430k km and i got it a week ago.


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Could you explain the hissing noise a bit more ? If it sounds like air leaking it's not the turbo that's failing I'm going to say that sounds more like a boost leak.

A failing turbo will make more of a police siren noise.. if you can get your hands on the inlet or outlet side of the turbo check it for play, they all have a very very small amount but anything bad and it will cause the blades to contact the housing.

Check the blades for impact damage.

Are you making any boost ?

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If it is the turbos failing and not an air leak it could be oil starvation.

Plus buying a turbo with 140k km on it won’t help and a car with 403k km on it could have a load more issues.
 
If it is the turbos failing and not an air leak it could be oil starvation.

Plus buying a turbo with 140k km on it won’t help and a car with 403k km on it could have a load more issues.
Second that, check oil pressure at the feed if you can. I know it's a bit of a nightmare but it can be done.

Otherwise check oil pressure at the pressure switch .


Check the oil return line for blockage.



The hissing sound described just made me think boost leak automatically, if the turbo was failing it wouldn't be hissing as such imo.



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Second that, check oil pressure at the feed if you can. I know it's a bit of a nightmare but it can be done.

Otherwise check oil pressure at the pressure switch .


Check the oil return line for blockage.



The hissing sound described just made me think boost leak automatically, if the turbo was failing it wouldn't be hissing as such imo.



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I had a boost leak and i had the whole system swapped(intercooler pipes etc.) I don't see any white smoke coming out of the exhaust and the hurbo hisses a bit even on idle(could be because I have my catalytic convertor removed) The engine smokes a bit from the oil dipstick when removed while running and also the oil filling hole. Any idea on how to check the oil pressure? I am not really experienced.


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Anyway, I don't have much money to spend on the car and I'm just looking to do a fixer upper so I can sell the car easier since it is a potential moneypit.


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I had a boost leak and i had the whole system swapped(intercooler pipes etc.) I don't see any white smoke coming out of the exhaust and the hurbo hisses a bit even on idle(could be because I have my catalytic convertor removed) The engine smokes a bit from the oil dipstick when removed while running and also the oil filling hole. Any idea on how to check the oil pressure? I am not really experienced.


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White smoke usually would indicate water in the combustion chamber, or water from the turbo if it's water cooled.

Usually with a boost leak you get excess fuel so it smokes black on a diesel.

If it's smoking from the dipstick then your rings are starting to go, as compression gasses are seeping past the pistons and down into the crankcase. You'll always get a bit but if it's excessive then they're going.

You can buy an oil pressure gauge for about 15 quid on Amazon or eBay.

Just take out the oil pressure switch and screw it in, do tests on hot idle and cold and like 2k rpm.

Not sure about your particular engine but if you're seeing less than about 18-20 psi at hot idle then you have low oil pressure but the dash would probably warn you of such anyway.

You could alternatively connect into the turbo oil feed. But don't leave the turbo without oil so it's a bit of a pain, you'd have to do it with a t piece really if you start it up with no oil feed to the turbo it will kill it pretty quick. You could as a quick test unbolt the oil return from the sump crack it up for a few seconds and see if oil comes out of the return.. if no then you have no feed or the return is blocked.

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Actually unbolting it from the sump would probably just leak all the oil unless it's high enough or higher than the level in the sump. So may not be an option

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I figured the rings are going and my mechanic shop tested the oil pressure and it was good enough... it smokes a bit of black when I floor it but I get full boost. I can smell burnt oil from the exhaust when it idles but no visible smoke(compared to when the first turbo broke It'd smoke like a steam train) Could there be anything else that might cause the turbos to whistle that much( it's much noticable when i'm between buildings so the sound bounces back to me, otherwise it's not that noticable.) Also I suspect it has a ECU remap because the car is insanely quick and doesnt feel like 105hp at all. Could a bad remap be causing turbo failures?


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I figured the rings are going and my mechanic shop tested the oil pressure and it was good enough... it smokes a bit of black when I floor it but I get full boost. I can smell burnt oil from the exhaust when it idles but no visible smoke(compared to when the first turbo broke It'd smoke like a steam train) Could there be anything else that might cause the turbos to whistle that much( it's much noticable when i'm between buildings so the sound bounces back to me, otherwise it's not that noticable.) Also I suspect it has a ECU remap because the car is insanely quick and doesnt feel like 105hp at all. Could a bad remap be causing turbo failures?


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Sometimes a bit of black is normal but modern injection systems are pretty accurate you don't get it with some cars..

Just depends, if it's consistently smoking black up the rpm range I'd say you're most likely underboosting.

If it's not actually a failed turbo then it could be louder due to broken inlet piping.. or if you have a pod filter on ( I wouldn't recommend it on a diesel anyway but gotta ask)

A bad map could definitely be the point of turbo failures.. you can turn them up so much that they blow themselves to bits. I spent 3 years tuning an Astra h cdti.. writing my own maps using winols and I had to eventually build a bigger turbo with uprated thrust bearings and billet compressor wheel because it was eating the stock turbos for breakfast. ( And they weren't making enough power)

If you get a boost gauge or do some logs on vcds you can see what's really going on. I'd recommend that too. But as stated a turbo with 140km on might not be the best starting point either.

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If you get a boost gauge or do some logs on vcds you can see what's really going on. I'd recommend that too. But as stated a turbo with 140km on might not be the best starting point either.

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I had 2 repaired turbos with brand new parts before that and they literally lasted 2 hours so it might be a bad remap



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I had 2 repaired turbos with brand new parts before that and they literally lasted 2 hours so it might be a bad remap



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Yeah something is making it over boost if that's happening for sure

Do you know if it's a vnt or a wastegate turbo?

If it's a vnt you could have bad vac lines . Or faulty n75 ..

With a vnt or vgt what happens is at idle the vanes close on the turbo to create a smaller path resulting in faster airflow to spool the turbo more.. once you rev it up the actuator should release vacuum controlled by the n75 in order to open up the vanes resulting in decreased flow to stop the turbo over spooling when you hit its peak..


Now, if the n75 is stuck open you have constant vacuum to the actuator on the turbo which means vanes are closed.. it will result in one of two things, choke the exhaust and decrease power or over spool the turbo.. and blow it!



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Similar set up with a wastegate turbo but the wastegate is opened by pressure from the compressor side of the turbo controlled through an n75..

If you have a split line the wastegate won't open resulting in over spool..

Or if the n75 is stuck shut you'll get overboost.

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Now, if the n75 is stuck open you have constant vacuum to the actuator on the turbo which means vanes are closed.. it will result in one of two things, choke the exhaust and decrease power or over spool the turbo.. and blow it!



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I did disconnect the vacuum line to the turbo when the second turbo started hissing on the freeway... This car is literally a moneypit and it isn't for a 18 year old guy..



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Similar set up with a wastegate turbo but the wastegate is opened by pressure from the compressor side of the turbo controlled through an n75..

If you have a split line the wastegate won't open resulting in over spool..

Or if the n75 is stuck shut you'll get overboost.

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I have no idea what kind of turbo it is. How can I check?


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Have a look at the exhaust housing if you can see it.. vnt actuators the rod usually goes up in-between the compressor housing and the exhaust housing..

With a wastegate turbo the actuator goes horizontal.

Variable vane turbos usually have a bigger exhaust housing.

You can pull the actuator line off and see if its drawing vacuum while it's idling . If yes then it's a vnt

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You can pull the actuator line off and see if its drawing vacuum while it's idling . If yes then it's a vnt

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Then yes it's a vnt . I know for sure it draws vacuum.


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Like in these pics. The defender one is a vnt or vgt.

Or if you're a wastegate then it will look like the one with the gold actuator
90806278134fd1fe58c954329e9bd047.jpg
13476f1c698078ec1df04ff8be4abf30.jpg


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Some do use a positive pressure on a vgt but in my experience it's pretty rare

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Lol that defender turbo is actually a positive pressure one as the line goes to the compressor housing just my luck to find one.

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Then yes it's a vnt . I know for sure it draws vacuum.


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Ok so, I'd say your next best bet would be to do some vcds logs.. what town are you located. I've got a vcds and could help you with it. Otherwise they're not ultra expensive

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Ok so, I'd say your next best bet would be to do some vcds logs.. what town are you located. I've got a vcds and could help you with it. Otherwise they're not ultra expensive

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Im from Macedonia.. Balkan..


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Well, that's that out of the window. .




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I think my best bet would be to sell the car. I'll go check out my n75 and and the lines if nobody know how to fix it I'm done and I'm selling as is.


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Lol well I'm in Manchester England.

Anyway , logs are your best friend when trouble shooting..

If possible use them, since it's had a remap and you're blowing turbos so easily I'm steering more towards the map being over the top.

But it could be a general failure of parts.

Have you checked the fault codes at all?

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Lol well I'm in Manchester England.

Anyway , logs are your best friend when trouble shooting..

If possible use them, since it's had a remap and you're blowing turbos so easily I'm steering more towards the map being over the top.

But it could be a general failure of parts.

Have you checked the fault codes at all?

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I have no diagnostic tools other than wrenches. I have a friend mechanic I'll ask him to use his tools to diagnose.. other than that I have no hope. People here charge 100€ per plugging in and diagnostic


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I have no diagnostic tools other than wrenches. I have a friend mechanic I'll ask him to use his tools to diagnose.. other than that I have no hope. People here charge 100€ per plugging in and diagnostic


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Jeez.. that's a bit steep.

I paid like £50 for a vcds tool. Works a treat on any vag car I've tried it on .. automatically recognises the ECU etc when you connect.

Paid for itself after one use, i like you're trying to get help to fix it I know car issues are a nightmare I've worked with them for years. I like to help people where I can anyway.

I'm no pro but I know enough to get me by and possibly help others while I'm at it.


It is hard without diagnostics tools though I must admit because cars now are generally electrically controlled everywhere. A vcds could log actual Vs specified boost pressure and tell you in an instant if it is out of spec. And that's just something little you can do with it.


You can see real time graphs of selected readouts.. record live data and study it later etc. If you're going to aim at fixing your own stuff then it's a must have imo. Shame I cant help you or you're not nearer I'd of plugged her in for nothing! I know what it takes to do a simple boost pressure check and fault code read and garages are ripping people left right and center it's atrocious




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Jeez.. that's a bit steep.

I paid like £50 for a vcds tool. Works a treat on any vag car I've tried it on .. automatically recognises the ECU etc when you connect.

Paid for itself after one use, i like you're trying to get help to fix it I know car issues are a nightmare I've worked with them for years. I like to help people where I can anyway.

I'm no pro but I know enough to get me by and possibly help others while I'm at it.


It is hard without diagnostics tools though I must admit because cars now are generally electrically controlled everywhere. A vcds could log actual Vs specified boost pressure and tell you in an instant if it is out of spec. And that's just something little you can do with it.


You can see real time graphs of selected readouts.. record live data and study it later etc. If you're going to aim at fixing your own stuff then it's a must have imo. Shame I cant help you or you're not nearer I'd of plugged her in for nothing! I know what it takes to do a simple boost pressure check and fault code read and garages are ripping people left right and center it's atrocious




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Thank you so much sir. At least i have some idea now of why I'm blowing up turbos left and right.
Here is the first turbo
bfc6ba8b3f973b9c7f23fa6517232153.jpg



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Literally nothing left of it lol


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Thank you so much sir. At least i have some idea now of why I'm blowing up turbos left and right.
Here is the first turbo
bfc6ba8b3f973b9c7f23fa6517232153.jpg



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Holy smokes.. you did a number on that LOL!!

It's snapped the shaft and mullered the compressor wheel. Does look like an over speeding problem for sure .

It has to be a turbo control issue or

Another reason you can get over boosting is due to the fact of a boost leak, what happens in that case is the air compressed by the turbo is lost . The map sensor sees less boost and doesn't control the n75 to turn the turbo down. It actually will ask for more pressure to compensate for what's lost in the leak..

I know the figures aren't right here but use this as an example.


You're making 1 bar of boost in a perfect situation..

Then you have a boost leak which leaves you making .5 bar,

Your ECU thinks the turbo isn't making enough so it closes the vanes to spin the turbo up some more to push it back up to 1 bar,

So the turbo is now making the 1 bar it's asking for but it's working twice as hard to overcome the leak.

Before you know it. Kaboom, she gone.


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Holy smokes.. you did a number on that LOL!!

It's snapped the shaft and mullered the compressor wheel. Does look like an over speeding problem for sure .

It has to be a turbo control issue or

Another reason you can get over boosting is due to the fact of a boost leak, what happens in that case is the air compressed by the turbo is lost . The map sensor sees less boost and doesn't control the n75 to turn the turbo down. It actually will ask for more pressure to compensate for what's lost in the leak..

I know the figures aren't right here but use this as an example.


You're making 1 bar of boost in a perfect situation..

Then you have a boost leak which leaves you making .5 bar,

Your ECU thinks the turbo isn't making enough so it closes the vanes to spin the turbo up some more to push it back up to 1 bar,

So the turbo is now making the 1 bar it's asking for but it's working twice as hard to overcome the leak.

Before you know it. Kaboom, she gone.


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I'll just drive with my MAF off and not risk any more damage because the car already cost me 4500€


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I'll just drive with my MAF off and not risk any more damage because the car already cost me 4500€


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When this happened did you end up with a load of oil in the intake ??

If yes then you know at least the turbo has oil feed.



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When this happened did you end up with a load of oil in the intake ??

If yes then you know at least the turbo has oil feed.



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I flooded the whole engine with oil full exhaust intercooler everything was flooded with oil.. I had a cleanup done and there was a bunch of white oil smoke on the first start for the first couple of km


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I flooded the whole engine with oil full exhaust intercooler everything was flooded with oil.. I had a cleanup done and there was a bunch of white oil smoke on the first start for the first couple of km


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You're lucky the engine didn't run on its own oil by that point!

Oil smoke is usually blue however,

Well I think to conclude so far that if you had oil everywhere then it's getting feed regardless.

Which means one of two things, your turbo builder didn't balance the turbos properly. Or they are over speeding and blowing up

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You're lucky the engine didn't run on its own oil by that point!

Oil smoke is usually blue however,

Well I think to conclude so far that if you had oil everywhere then it's getting feed regardless.

Which means one of two things, your turbo builder didn't balance the turbos properly. Or they are over speeding and blowing up

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This is after the first turbo failed and i tried to drive it to a mechanic shop and it died right there.


And this is a first start on second turbo



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This is after the first turbo failed and i tried to drive it to a mechanic shop and it died right there.


And this is a first start on second turbo



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Seems to be clearing up whatever it is during the end of the video.

It's a pd engine I think from what I can see.

By disconnected what do you mean? The vacuum line ?

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Seems to be clearing up whatever it is during the end of the video.

It's a pd engine I think from what I can see.

By disconnected what do you mean? The vacuum line ?

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Yes the vacuum line


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