As well as the increase to around the 180bhp mark you should also see an increase in MPG and it should drive a lot smoother.
Carbon Clean
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Exactly my understanding as well. 180 is the upper limit of the 140’s turbo.
My understanding is that If you stay on the standard 140 injectors but fit a larger capacity turbo it should still be ok to around 200-220bhp before the need to uprate the injectors, which then takes you to Stage 2 category. A used turbo from the 170bhp engine is a good, cheap, viable upgrade option for hitting the 200bhp mark on these engines.
The thing I am not sure about is whether or not my multitronic gearbox (code GYJ) is suitable for either of them. In my view definitely not for Stage 2 and I need someone’s expert opinion on that. Or perhaps all I want to hear is go Stage 1, gearbox will be fine
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Having had both turbo's I'd say it really depends what you want from the car, stock will come on boost quicker and give a more linear power delivery but the bv43 will be better when it kicks in, don't buy the 170bhp turbo expecting to make over 210bhp though even with all the trimmings to go with it; 1.7 bar is the max for this turbo if you don't want issues. If we're being entirely honest either of these turbo's with a straight pipe, egr delete, front mount (and maybe more stuff I've forgot) are about the most you can get from these car's to keep them as a good around town car, anything more (and I hate to say it) you really want a bigger displacement engine (and by anything more I mean injectors, bigger turbo's, etc, it will be a dyno queen and lag monster). MPG claims after a map are relevant to your right foot, can get good mpg but if it's being mapped chances are the car will be having more right foot action too. The clutch will probably not want to play ball for long and need upgrading... actually (and again I hate to say this) you'll really have to weigh up the costs before doing allot of things with these engines as even without mapping and fitting the bits and bobs I've mentioned are over £1500 in parts easy even getting stuff at rock bottom prices (egr delete, straight pipe, front mount, clutch kit and different turbo if you like) then the mapping will be another £300+ and if your paying for fitting of all this that'll be £600 minimum too.
Hope this doesn't put anyone off too much as small displacement diesel engine's are great, can never sell mine though as it's had too much money spent on it.
Hope this doesn't put anyone off too much as small displacement diesel engine's are great, can never sell mine though as it's had too much money spent on it.
Then there's the age old chestnut for Tashfeen's BRE and Jamie?? of oil pump drive that haunted the B7 and even early B8 , with the earliest B7 being double trouble .
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/thread...e-definitive-guide-audi-vw-skoda-seat.140949/
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/thread...e-definitive-guide-audi-vw-skoda-seat.140949/
This is very useful @DieselJake. So, sticking with what I have is what I had on my mind but what I didn’t know were the other costs - it makes sense now. My only regret is that rather than selling my B7 170bhp (manual) I should’ve sold this one.
I don’t want to steal Jamie’s thread but can’t help myself
. I would rather use one thread to discuss kind of same thing rather than having my own to discuss it. Helps people with replying to the same thing at one place.
I have created another thread where I believe the car has developed a fault with either DMF or starter motor or something else, which will be looked at in the afternoon today. Carl has very kindly provided his input and I’ll be looking into all of them. And whilst the car is up there we’ll also have a look at the nightmare Gaz alluded to in his above post.
However, my question remains unanswered; shall I go stage 1 with the autobox.
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I don’t want to steal Jamie’s thread but can’t help myself
. I would rather use one thread to discuss kind of same thing rather than having my own to discuss it. Helps people with replying to the same thing at one place. I have created another thread where I believe the car has developed a fault with either DMF or starter motor or something else, which will be looked at in the afternoon today. Carl has very kindly provided his input and I’ll be looking into all of them. And whilst the car is up there we’ll also have a look at the nightmare Gaz alluded to in his above post.
However, my question remains unanswered; shall I go stage 1 with the autobox.
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Stealth racing quoted £275 + VAT for stage 1
Gonna go with the egr delete for now.
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Gonna go with the egr delete for now.
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I would say yes.....BUT I don't know how much torque the gearbox can handle safely as I know some can't handle it that well.
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That's expensive , most add £50 to a £200 Stage 1 file and a few don't even add as a file is a file .
My father paid a little over £400 for Stage 1 , egr out and dpf gutted .
My father paid a little over £400 for Stage 1 , egr out and dpf gutted .
Don't know a lot about them but good reviews? Can you not phone around and find out if anyone else does it all for you for slightly less money?
I went with a place called Quantum Tuning for my mapping as I really wanted a handset so I could remove the maps and put it back to standard if need be.
I've got three maps on mine, Stage 1, Stage 1 + EGR Delete and finally Stage 1 + EGR Delete + DPF Delete.
If I go away I can also remove the map off the car totally so it can't be driven.
They quote £350 on their site but only charged me £300 over the phone as I spoke to the boss directly. The other plus to this is that if I sell the car I can remove the map and they will supply me with a new one for small fee.
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I've got three maps on mine, Stage 1, Stage 1 + EGR Delete and finally Stage 1 + EGR Delete + DPF Delete.
If I go away I can also remove the map off the car totally so it can't be driven.
They quote £350 on their site but only charged me £300 over the phone as I spoke to the boss directly. The other plus to this is that if I sell the car I can remove the map and they will supply me with a new one for small fee.
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I’ve asked if I have a stage 1 if he cost to do the egr delete is included, waiting for a reply. That said still a lot for a stage 1. I’ve found places doing it under £200
I’m happy with the egr delete for now
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I’ve spoke to a local tuning company who said do it’s not necessary to put an egr delete kit on as all that’s needed is to block it off and map out the error..
What do you guys think about this ?
The good thing about said company is that he’ll do the egr map out and stage 1 along with England be carbon clean for £300.
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What do you guys think about this ?
The good thing about said company is that he’ll do the egr map out and stage 1 along with England be carbon clean for £300.
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That's right delete kits aren't needed the egr off in the remap cancels any signals so the egr remains closed .
Blanks and delete kits are needed / desirable if the egr is stuck open and or O rings are leaking.
What's your engine code ?
Blanks and delete kits are needed / desirable if the egr is stuck open and or O rings are leaking.
What's your engine code ?
Rights chaps, Gaz and Carl I know you both know your stuff but I’ve been researching the adding of 2 stroke into diesel and tbh the studies I’ve seen seem to discredit more than than approving it, if I’m honest there seems more of the against camp than the for it.
What made you both go with adding it?
What made you both go with adding it?
I’ve been doing it for years when I used to own a van or two.
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Multiple forum member recommendations on a thread .
A study against is referring to semi synthetic JASO FC and we use mineral JASO FB .
A study against is referring to semi synthetic JASO FC and we use mineral JASO FB .
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It should be in the service book a sticker like this
Or in the boot next to spare tyre. Again, same kind of sticker.
Where it says BRE you should be able to see your engine code.
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do they do a setup for the 220 bul tfsi engines carl.. I allways wanted the mutlimap option over the fixed map I had done....
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Should I send the egr delete kit back if not needed ?
My thinking was if the egr full of crap, the delete kit would give better air flow.. or have I got it all wrong ??
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So you both using it in the 2.0 tdi motors then?
I’m just weary of putting it in the Mrs 170tdi as it’s a problem some engine as it is with the pdf weekly blocking and needing a thrashing.
I’m just weary of putting it in the Mrs 170tdi as it’s a problem some engine as it is with the pdf weekly blocking and needing a thrashing.
With a DPF you’ll have to use the semi-synthetic as the mineral based oil will kill it.
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IIRC JASO FC produces less ash than FB and won’t clog the DPF.
There was a large right up I read about it somewhere but I’m not at home so can’t look properly.
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There was a large right up I read about it somewhere but I’m not at home so can’t look properly.
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This is off a Merc forum and it’s similar to what I read a while back.....and the specs he uses for FD are correct but it doesn’t mix well with diesel.
“Ihave done a huge amount of research on this, and got the official Japanese JASO spec sheets which show the composition and burn tests etc.
In an nutshell you MUST use either semisynth JASO FC or fully synth JASO FD - these both burn cleaner and lower ash than diesel.
You can't use the mineral JASO FB stuff you have been using as it has higher ash than diesel.”
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“Ihave done a huge amount of research on this, and got the official Japanese JASO spec sheets which show the composition and burn tests etc.
In an nutshell you MUST use either semisynth JASO FC or fully synth JASO FD - these both burn cleaner and lower ash than diesel.
You can't use the mineral JASO FB stuff you have been using as it has higher ash than diesel.”
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They all get described as low ash / smoke , so as FB mineral lowers the ash and smoke how can it block a dpf ?
JASO FC & FD are unpopular because of their increased cost .
Note he doesn't post the JASO info .
JASO FC & FD are unpopular because of their increased cost .
Note he doesn't post the JASO info .
FB does have a low ash rating but it produces more ash than the diesel fuel it’s added to. But FC has a lower rating of ash than the diesel it’s added to.
The general rule for the different performance levels is this:
FB corresponds to high lubricity performance but without any low-smoke technology.
FC meets the FB lubricity standards but also is a low-smoke lubricant.
Low-smoke lubricant = lower sulphated ash content.
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The general rule for the different performance levels is this:
FB corresponds to high lubricity performance but without any low-smoke technology.
FC meets the FB lubricity standards but also is a low-smoke lubricant.
Low-smoke lubricant = lower sulphated ash content.
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FB will burn with lower ash than diesel as it is observed by myself and others that less smoke out the back on non dpf cars .
FC and FD do have less smoke and higher lubricity than FB , but this is a petrol additive and acts accordingly when it mixes with petrol .
With diesel it's different , as semi and full synthetic FC & FD don't mix too well in diesel as you mentioned and I remember somewhere, the study I saw regarding FC was very negative , sadly not one for FB , it seemed every aspect was disproven , injector deposits , etc and didn't reflect the experience of people who use it .
People experience...
Smoother , quieter engine .
Less smoke on start up and acceleration .
Better acceleration and mpg .
Half's some mot smoke opacity tests on previous year .
Easier starting .
FC and FD do have less smoke and higher lubricity than FB , but this is a petrol additive and acts accordingly when it mixes with petrol .
With diesel it's different , as semi and full synthetic FC & FD don't mix too well in diesel as you mentioned and I remember somewhere, the study I saw regarding FC was very negative , sadly not one for FB , it seemed every aspect was disproven , injector deposits , etc and didn't reflect the experience of people who use it .
People experience...
Smoother , quieter engine .
Less smoke on start up and acceleration .
Better acceleration and mpg .
Half's some mot smoke opacity tests on previous year .
Easier starting .
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Just had a look at the delete kit and noticed it didn’t come with a gasket for between the inlet manifold and delete kit. What can I use ?
Can’t use an original gasket for the egr as it won’t seal as it’s a different shape.
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Can’t use an original gasket for the egr as it won’t seal as it’s a different shape.
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This is what I got
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/OEM-Allard...-2004-62-41-/192316613582?txnId=1435636879009
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https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/OEM-Allard...-2004-62-41-/192316613582?txnId=1435636879009
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So you got an O ring with it then? As that's all you need as the Anti Shudder Valve has it's own rubber seal.
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Yeah got o ring, but looks like the o ring is for anti shudder valve side and not manifold end ??
Maybe the pics may show what I mean.
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Maybe the pics may show what I mean.
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Other way round as the threaded holes are what the ASV bolts too and the grub screw for the hosetail fitting goes underneath next to the manifold.
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