New battery, now power steering light!!?

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jri91

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Audi a3 dsg 2.0 tdi

Fitted a new battery a few days ago.

yellow power steering light appeared came on and went off after restarting the car

Now its back and wont go away!? What can the issue be as steering works fine!!?

Can it be fluid or fuse?!?
 
They are electric on the 8p mate, may need resetting with vcds
 
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jri91 said:
Audi a3 dsg 2.0 tdi

Fitted a new battery a few days ago.

yellow power steering light appeared came on and went off after restarting the car

Now its back and wont go away!? What can the issue be as steering works fine!!?

Can it be fluid or fuse?!?
Click to expand...
This happened on my farther inlaws A4, come on because he disconnected his battery while his wheels were on right hand lock, all he did was point the wheels straight, disconnected the battery, reconnected it again and the light went off.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
Is the new battery exactly the same spec as the original?
 
I replaced my battery recently and after having done so, I had various symbols lit up on the dash, including the steering wheel.
Following information gleaned from old threads on here, with the engine running I turned the steering wheel full lock from one side to another, holding for a few seconds on both sides.
This alone does not put the lights out, but once I'd driven off my driveway and travelled about 50 yards the lights all went out.
Have you actually driven your car, as opposed to simply starting it up since the battery replacement?
 
This is because the steering angle sensor (g85) loses basic settings and requires recalibration via the method stated above.

1) start engine
2) centralise wheel ±10° hold for 5 seconds
3) turn steering wheel completely to the left hold for 2 seconds
4) turn steering wheel completely to the right hold for 2 seconds
5) center steering wheel ±10°
6) turn ignition/engine off and wait for 1 minute
7) turn ignition on wait for 5 seconds the steering lamp should go off.

If not go for a short drive.

But from what is mentioned the steering light should be red? not orange? Also I noticed someone else mistook the orange brake symbol for steering wheel, this isn't the case is it?
 
MrSmithr said:
This is because the steering angle sensor (g85) loses basic settings and requires recalibration via the method stated above.

1) start engine
2) centralise wheel ±10° hold for 5 seconds
3) turn steering wheel completely to the left hold for 2 seconds
4) turn steering wheel completely to the right hold for 2 seconds
5) center steering wheel ±10°
6) turn ignition/engine off and wait for 1 minute
7) turn ignition on wait for 5 seconds the steering lamp should go off.

If not go for a short drive.

But from what is mentioned the steering light should be red? not orange? Also I noticed someone else mistook the orange brake symbol for steering wheel, this isn't the case is it?
Click to expand...

Its the yellow steering wheel symbol, i usually wait for it to go out before i fully turn the key. But in this case the light does not go out making a beeping noise 3 times
 
Is the yellow esp light on also? Turns out steering wheel light varies between yellow/red for different cars. On my a3 the steering wheel light is red.

Have you taken it for a drive?
Do you have access to vcds?
 
Just the steering light, now the steering wont even turn to complete above instructions!
 
I'd recommend getting it scanned via vcds. To see if that can shine some light on the subject. If you don't have vcds you can check the vcds map to see if someone is local enough to scan for beer tokens.

Are there any noises correlated to the fault?

It sounds a little more serious than just a steering angle sensor. Keep us updated mate and hope you get it sorted soon.
 
MrSmithr said:
I'd recommend getting it scanned via vcds. To see if that can shine some light on the subject. If you don't have vcds you can check the vcds map to see if someone is local enough to scan for beer tokens.

Are there any noises correlated to the fault?

It sounds a little more serious than just a steering angle sensor. Keep us updated mate and hope you get it sorted soon.
Click to expand...

No noises

day 1 replaced battery

Day 2 steering light, drove fine

Day 3 steering light, steering gone heavy!
 
Worth taking a punt but with the key out of your ignition disconnect ground on the battery, wait 10 minutes then put the key into the ignition and turn it to the on position. Reconnect ground and see if that helps any.

Do you have a multimeter?
 
MrSmithr said:
Worth taking a punt but with the key out of your ignition disconnect ground on the battery, wait 10 minutes then put the key into the ignition and turn it to the on position. Reconnect ground and see if that helps any.

Do you have a multimeter?
Click to expand...
Nope
 
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My friend used his snap on code reader (not vcd) it showed fault code

02546

He cleared it but now the esp lights on???
 
No problem :).

That code is to do with the steering sensor calibration so you can try the recalibration now, it should get rid of it. Also the esp light should go off after a short drive. Takes roughly 0.5-1 mile.
 
Last edited:
MrSmithr said:
No problem :).

That code is to do with the steering sensor calibration so you can try the recalibration now, it should get rid of it. Also the esp light should go off after a short drive. Takes roughly 0.5-1 mile.
Click to expand...
Esp light is still on
 
Was there any other information with the fault code when he connected snap on diags?

02546 - Steering Limit Stop: No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
Possible Symptoms
  • Steering Assist OFF
Possible Causes
  • No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation
Possible Solutions
  • Perform Steering Limit Stop Adaptation
    • Make sure the Ignition is ON and the Engine is Running.
    • Center Steering Wheel (±10°) and hold it centered for about 5 Seconds.
    • Turn Steering Wheel completely to the Left and hold there for about 10 Seconds.
    • Turn Steering Wheel completely to the Right and hold there for about 10 Seconds.
    • Center Steering Wheel (±10°).
    • Switch Engine and Ignition OFF.
    • Switch Ignition ON.
    • Wait about 5 Seconds.
    • Steering Assist Warning Lamp should turn OFF (If it doesn't, perform a short Test Drive).
Special Notes
  • When this DTC will not clear in Mk70 and MK60 ESP equipped (1K) Golf models see the WSS (Wheel Speed Sensor) notes Here.
  • The Steering Limit Stop Adaptation page contains several additional notes if the procedure is not successful.
It would be really helpful to get yourself vcds and a cable because it'll save you a ton of headaches and a pretty penny too.
 
No mate, just what i mentioned, its booked in monday for vagcom test.

Ive looked at vcds on ebay, why isit some of the cables are really cheap compared to some being £200+ !??
 
Electric power steering is very susceptible to battery voltage fluctuations. For me it is too much of a coincidence that this problem started immediately after fitting a new battery. I suspect either a faulty new battery or one which is underpowered. I have known "budget" batteries to be faulty from new or completely fail within a year. When fitting a new battery to a modern car (which has lots of sophisticated electronics) it is very important to fit one with the correct power figures otherwise the car's computer (ECU) will assume the battery is failing and possibly ration power to just essential driving and safety functions. My 2.0 TDI A3 has a battery as follows:-
Size 100
70 AH power (amp hours)
680 CC (cold cranking amps)
It is not OE and was fitted by the previous owner, but everything works fine
If your car has stop start (which mine hasn't) then the battery will be higher/specialised spec.

We're all guessing on a forum - I'd be happy to put a £10 bet each way on the battery :chuncky:
 
Retroman makes a very valid point. New things can be faulty too. My a3 has an exide battery rated for 77aH and even I had some issues after it ran flat. Steering angle sensor/esp light was one of them but the short drive resolved it.

The £200 cables are legitimate. There are counterfeit cables that will do the job but at your own risk. I managed to get a used one from an ad selling site for £40 about a year back and haven't regretted it since.

More and more electrical components in modern cars make this a necessary bit of kit even for the average diy'er/hobbyist.

Also vcds is vag-com. Vcds stands for vag-com diagnostic system.
 
This new battery i have fitted has higher values, is this a issue? The battery shop seem to think this will not cause said issues
 
Ive swapped the battery for another new one. Ive recalibrated the steering turning the steering symbol off however the esp light is still on!??
 
Could be ABS sensor. It's difficult to say without diags log or being there. Usually a higher aH battery wouldn't cause issues but it doesn't rule it out. The battery could have been faulty.
 
Yellow steering wheel warning light = electro-mechanical steering impaired
Red steering wheel warning light = electro-mechanical steering not functioning at all
Both lights permanently off = system functioning normally :glee:

Yellow ESP (electronic stabilisation programme aka traction control) = System deactivated. I would drive the car for a few days and see if resets itself. Some of these "fault lights" take around 3 start/run/stop cycles before automatically resetting.

I'm assuming you are happy that the alternator is working properly and charging the batteries being fitted - I'm guessing the garage that replaced the original battery established it was a battery and not alternator fault.
 
I just wanted to point out that when I was diagnosing an airbag light fault the red steering wheel light came on along with the yellow esp light when I scanned with vcds it came up steering wheel angle sensor (g85) but a recalibration and short drive resolved that issue.

The best advice when asking for advice is to give as much information about the fault as possible. What's been tried, what hasn't. It's not meant to be rude in any way but just saying the esp light has come on could be a number of things.

I hope you get this sorted soon and let others know the steps you took to resolve it. After all knowledge is power, also makes a stand from the ludicrous charges stealerships charge.
 
Had the car plugged it into vagcom today

fault code 01309

The mechanic cleared it and told me its nothing to worry about as the car drives fine?
 
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Restarted the car a few times, steering light came back on! Then restarted it again and now its gone!!!
 
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Judging by what you've described it sounds like it's the power steering control module. Either a loose connection/wiring fault.

With more information like what car model/year/engine code I could get you information of the location of the power steering control module.

Also I hope your multimeter has arrived because it is an indispensable tool when diagnosing wiring faults amongst other things.

I've attached a picture of how your multimeter should be setup to test for continuity (break in wiring). You place the black lead on any grounding point (somewhere metal on the car) then touch the wire with the tip of the red lead. It should make a beeping noise, if it does not then there is a fault with the wiring.

20170815 081852


Sorry for the size.

If there is no wiring fault it could be the connector. Clean the connector with switch cleaner, just spray a moderate amount and connect/disconnect the connection multiple times.

If that fails then it will be the power steering control module.

On a side note, I would go to a different mechanic because the mechanic that said it drives fine and doesn't matter that there's a fault. It does matter just that it might not be a major fault. To me any car shouldn't have faults that are related to any function of the vehicle. Especially steering/engine/brake/airbags etc..
 
MrSmithr said:
Judging by what you've described it sounds like it's the power steering control module. Either a loose connection/wiring fault.

With more information like what car model/year/engine code I could get you information of the location of the power steering control module.

Also I hope your multimeter has arrived because it is an indispensable tool when diagnosing wiring faults amongst other things.

I've attached a picture of how your multimeter should be setup to test for continuity (break in wiring). You place the black lead on any grounding point (somewhere metal on the car) then touch the wire with the tip of the red lead. It should make a beeping noise, if it does not then there is a fault with the wiring.

View attachment 133735

Sorry for the size.

If there is no wiring fault it could be the connector. Clean the connector with switch cleaner, just spray a moderate amount and connect/disconnect the connection multiple times.

If that fails then it will be the power steering control module.

On a side note, I would go to a different mechanic because the mechanic that said it drives fine and doesn't matter that there's a fault. It does matter just that it might not be a major fault. To me any car shouldn't have faults that are related to any function of the vehicle. Especially steering/engine/brake/airbags etc..
Click to expand...

Thanks for all your help bud, the multimeter is on its way.

The light has gone back off again! I will get the cars details.

Never had a electrical fault with a car before.. Its defiantly the worst! All from changing a battery!!?
 
They're a pain I know that much haha.

Hopefully it's just a bit of a loose connection. I believe cars that use CAN bus are sensitive to resistance and voltage changes which can result is DTCs even from a slight undervoltage from the battery etc..
 
lol just seem to be ussual adaptation needed, just do full lock left wait 5 seconds, full lock right wait 5 seconds and repeat it like 3 times, after that should go off and be easier to turn, if not just disconnect the battery again for 30 minutes, plug it again, then try to drive it normally for 100 yards, if not help, will be some logical problem in unit, so will need vcds to connect to module and reset it preperly and then do the adaptation. about esp, try to hold esp button for 5 sconds to "wurn it off" and then again to turn it on, but as scan says, just need adaptation of steering angle.
 
The op says he's tried all that to no avail.
 
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