For several months I’d been researching about installing a RNS-E into my 2003 S3 8L.Originally I was looking to get a MK1 version.I’d also thought about going down the route of an Android headunit but they just don’t look that OEM enough to me right now.
I found a couple of threads,one on the A2 forum where a member had fitted a Mk2 unit (RNSE-PU [REV B]) by downgrading the software to 0150 version and then being able to code the RNS-E for an A6.It needed to be a unit that has the V.Signal input so the RNS-E can pick up the speed signal from the GALA wire.The latter versions of the MK2 unit are missing this input.
Just by chance,a MK2 (REV B) unit came up on ebay for the price of a MK1 unit so I snapped it up.Here’s a run through of my install,I owe many thanks to various people and threads/forums/websites,some more helpful than others.
Apologies for the poor quality pictures as I am as good at photography as my rubbish camera phone is.Also some of the links may have ended as I’ve been a bit delayed writing this up.
Anyway,I hope someone will find it useful as knowledge seems to be scattered all over the internet.Let’s get started!
First thing I did was to check to see if I had CAN H & CAN L present in my car.I checked the grey plug on the back of the dash clocks but no wires there so I thought I may have to run CAN wires from the dash clocks to the back of the RNS-E.
When I checked the wiring on the back of my Symphony II stereo,it had CAN H & CAN L wires present.
Note to self...check behind stereo first!
Plug ‘n’ Play adapter
It seems there is no such thing as a “plug ‘n’ play” RNS-E adapter for a S3 8L.I just bought an adapter for Bose from ebay…
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A3-A4-A6-RNS-E-sat-nav-PLUG-PLAY-installation-adapter-retrofit-set-kit-BOSE/151486346401?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
…then set about moving some wires/pins to make it right for my car.Obviously if you don’t have the CAN wires at the stereo you will need to either get an adapter with those wires included to run to the dash clocks,or make up your own CAN wires from dash clocks to RNS-E.
The CAN H goes into pin #5 on the grey (middle) connecter behind dash clocks.
The CAN L goes into pin #6 on the grey (middle) connecter behind dash clocks.
I found with my adapter I had to move the Bose wire to a different pin location and swap over the left/right audio channels for the cd changer(Phatbox).I also had to add a GALA (V.Signal) wire and RFSL (Reverse signal) wire input into the RNS-E.
To do this,as I have Bose in my car and didn’t need the front speaker wires to the RNS-E,I removed that plug from the RNS-E adapter (to do this each plug has a tab to press to release it from the main RNS-E block) and moved two of the wires to the block (Symphony II end of the adapter) containing the main power source to the RNS-E.I then cut off the pins on the RNS-E end of the two wires and crimped on some pins,that came from ebay (Part No. 000979164E) to fit the wires in the corresponding pin locations at the RNS-E block.
With another set of pins and plugs from ebay in Germany…
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ISO-Stecker-SET-2x-8-polig-Lautsprecher-Strom-fur-den-Anschlus-von-Autoradio-/162876149905?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&nma=true&si=Qla65MKBcf5fCJuwwhu%2FvyOGd%2Bs%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
…I used some pins for the GALA & RFSL wires I had run to the center console.I also used some of these pins and one of the blocks,along with the redundant speaker block to connect the wires from my aftermarket Bluetooth phone.
I used this information for my set up including bose with aftermarket Bluetooth phone to match up my Symphony II input wires to the RNS-E input wires...
Symphony II RNS-E
A1 LINE REAR LEFT CHANNEL OUT C5
A2 LINE REAR RIGHT CHANNEL OUT C11
A3 LINE OUT GROUND C8
A4 LINE FRONT LEFT CHANNEL OUT C3
A5 LINE FRONT RIGHT CHANNEL OUT C9
A6 ANTENNA AMP(+)OUT D13
A8 CAN HIGH D9
A10 GROUND(-) D12
A12 CAN LOW D10
A13 CDC DATA IN B11
A14 CDC DATA OUT B6
A15 CDC CLOCK DATA IN B12
A16 POWER(+12V) B4
A17 CD CONTROL OUT B10
A18 CD AUDIO GROUND B2
A19 CD AUDIO LEFT CHANNEL IN B8
A20 CD AUDIO RIGHT CHANNEL IN B9
C1 BOSE B7
C2 ALARM GROUND D14
C3 K-LINE B5
C7 POWER(+12V) D5
C8 GROUND(-) D12
D1 TEL MUTE D11
D3 TEL(+) IN C12
D4 TEL(-) IN C6
** GALA B3
** RFSL C2
I found the easiest way to sort the wire/pin locations was to get some cable labels…
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50x-Cable-id-Tidy-Labels-Self-Adhesive-Sticky-Identification-Stickers-Tags-Plugs/322416521238?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
…and tag each wire from the Symphony II connector to the RNS-E connector.I also bought a set of pin removal ‘keys’ to save faffing about with bent paper clips…
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11pcs-Wiring-Connector-Extractor-Car-Terminal-Pin-Removal-Puller-Release-Tool-UK/122619762789?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
…for the price of a few quid it makes the job so much easier.I also bought some loom tape from the bay…
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tesa-tap...-15mm-x-15m-/112643924629?hash=item1a3a19e295
For the reverse wire signal I took a 'feed' from the passenger side tail light as I’d already run the Phatbox cable in the past and knew it was as easy as hunting around the fusebox for a 'feed' point.It was fed from the boot,behind the rear door card,the passenger door sill trim and kickplate (one screw holding kickplate in) can then be popped off to feed the wire around under the glovebox to the back of the centre console.For the cable for these wires I got,yes you’ve guessed it...from the bay,some 1mm automotive cable…
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOMOTIVE-1mm-THINWALL-ELECTRICAL-AUTO-CABLE-WIRE-16-5AMP-ALL-LENGTHS-COLOURS/182266335806?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
For the GALA wire access to the dash clocks is needed (also if you have to run CAN H & L wires).To do this,I released the steering column adjuster and moved the column to its lowest point.Place a blanket,or some protection,over the steering column.There is a plastic trim under the dash clocks which needs to be removed by prising off back towards you.Now you should be able to see two screws (white circles) that are holding the clocks in place,these need to be removed BUT be careful as these can fall behind the dash so I used a magnetic pointer to make sure the screw stays put when you undo it.
With the screws removed the clocks can now be pulled out gently (this is where you need your protection on the steering column) to gain access to the multiplugs on the back of the cluster.They are removed by lifting the purple lever at the end of the plug,it will withdraw as you move the lever over the top of the plug.
When you look at the plug you will see it has numbers on it for the corresponding pins,numbered 1 to 32…
…there is a purple flap at one end that needs to be slid off from the plug and a cable tie securing the wires entering the plug to be removed so that you can slide out the block of pins.
If you need to run CAN H & L wires you will need to open up the grey (middle) connector plug and add the two wires to the corresponding pin places.I believe,but haven’t needed to use them so can’t be 100% sure,the pins that I got for the GALA & RFSL wires into the RNS-E block (Part No. 000979164E) would fit the 32 pin connector blocks behind the dash as both the two blocks look the same dimensions.I’d check first if you need to use them.
CAN H Grey Connector PIN 5
CAN L Grey Connector PIN 6
As I didn’t need to run CAN wires,I just had to tap into the GALA (speed signal) wire from the dash clocks.To do this you need to open up the Blue connector and tap into the green/white wire that is located in PIN 31.I did this by using my pin tool to remove the pin from the block then stripped off about 1cm of the wire sleeve and soldered on a wire to run to the RNS-E.I covered the soldering with some heatshrink and tidied it up with some loom tape.I ran the wire along a loom down the back of the dash to the back of the centre console.I found it helped to remove the driver’s side lower dash panel to do this,there’s plenty of guides on how to remove the panel on this forum.
GPS Antenna
I’d read many posts about people putting the GPS behind the dash clocks or behind the glovebox with differing success.I thought as I have no sunroof in my S3 the best place for the GPS would be in the interior front rooflight fitting,as it is higher up than both other options.
The GPS antenna was purchased from ebay…
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-External-GPS-Satnav-Antenna-Magnetic-Aerial-RG174-For-Audi-BMW-Vauxhall-Ford-/162416697119?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&nma=true&si=Qla65MKBcf5fCJuwwhu%2FvyOGd%2Bs%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
…with a 3 metre cable on it making it just long enough to root through the headlining and down the passenger A pillar,then behind the back of the glovebox following the same path as my RFSL and Phatbox cables.
I have a trusty length of old thick mains earthing cable and used it to trace the GPS lead,that way you can use it to thread from interior light to sun visor light aperture,then using the trace wire,pull back the A pillar rubber at the top and thread the trace wire through to the sun visor light.Then it can be ‘eased’ down the pillar and with the passenger side dash cover removed you should be able to feed it through behind the glovebox.From there it can hook up to the other cables heading to the centre console.
I got the diversity aerial adapter included with my “plug ‘n’ play” RNS-E adapter from ebay so that was a pretty easy job to sort,just “plug ‘n’ play”.
Trimming the RNS-E
This was the most scary part of all as it could go t!t$ up,but luckily it went ok for me.First job was to cover the screen with some padding and wrap up the fascia with some masking tape.The metal trim strip at the bottom of the unit,which needs to be removed,has three tiny hex screws holding it in.They came out easily with the right screwdriver.
To get the measurements for the cutting of the bottom of the fascia I used some masking tape at the bottom of the centre console either side of the opening then slid the RNS-E as far into the hole as possible and marked the fascia in line with the markings on the console.
Once I had the marks on the fascia of the RNS-E I needed somewhere stable to cut off the bottom and found it slotted nicely into my workmate bench.As a straight line guide I used an old piece of tile edge trim from my garage ‘parts bin’ (I had to cut out a bit so it would fit past the on/off switch).The tile trim was clamped down and I used my ‘dremel’ to cut off the bottom section.That still left a few ridges underneath the RNS-E but I found my window paint scraper did a great job of removing them,followed by a light sanding with 180 grit paper and sanding block,just to tidy up the bottom edge.
For the sides I measured the top of my Symphony II and that measured about 5mm narrower than the top of the RNS-E fascia.I then moved my tape measure down the front of the Symphony II about 4cm and measured the width there and transferred that to the RNS-E fascia.A bit of freehand sketching and I had a cut line either side of the fascia.This time I used sandpaper (180 grit) and a sanding block as it is much safer that way.It just means a case of sanding a bit,checking by fitting,back to more sanding,and repeated until I was happy with the fit (making sure not to push the RNS-E right in as we all know what fun it is trying to get the stereo keys to locate!).
Once all that was done and the RNS-E installed it leaves a gap above the unit and the hazard switch fascia.I’d read about people going to B & Q to get some black moulding to fill the gap but I thought about using some of the chrome tile edge trim that was used as a cutting guide.I’m embarrassed to say that my stock was low so I had to shell out just under £8 to get 2.4m,when I needed about 25cm,but hey it took me two goes anyway before I got it good enough to use.I got the tile edge trim from Travis Perkins (GENESIS 10mm chrome edge tile trim)...
https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Genesis-10mm-Polished-Chrome-Straight-Edge-Tile-Trim-ESA100-91/p/485659#
First I used the hazard switch fascia as a guide to get the width needed for the chrome strip.I then marked out where it needed to be trimmed to fit nicely behind the fascia and used a hacksaw to cut ‘channels’ in the back side of the trim.For the longer sections I made several cuts then used a pair of pliers to wiggle the ‘waste’ pieces until I had a suitable profile.
That was what I did for the install,next job was getting the RNS-E to work in my car.
Soft coding
As I only have VCDS Lite,I could have done the soft coding,but as the unit needed to have the software downgraded I took it to my local mech. for the coding.
For the software downgrade I needed a genuine Audi sat nav disk (
8P0 060 884 AN) (2010-0650) Europe - Includes 0150 SW for 2010+ RNS-E.
I found a great thread for the information on Audi sat nav discs here...
https://audiforum.us/threads/audi-navigation-dvd-part-numbers.6857/
Also,when searching for a suitable disc I found there was two different part numbers but this thread put it straight...
https://audiforum.us/threads/difference-beteween-8p0-060-884-aa-8p0-919-884-aa.6442/
To do the software downgrade,here’s what you need to know...
To downgrade the software, have an older DVD (0150 or less) ready and follow the steps listed below:
- remove the current DVD from RNS-E if inserted
- connect with VAG-COM to #37
- set channel 97 to 1 and save the value
- exit VAG-COM
- insert the old DVD that contains the software you want to downgrade to
- wait until the RNS-E finishes the update (starts a few seconds after inserting the DVD, will reboot twice and then power off)
- connect with VAG-COM to #37 channel 97 and save the value of 0
Once the software as been downgraded and confirmed the unit can be soft coded for an A6.Mine was coded as A6 with Bose,CD Changer(Phatbox) and no phone as I just have my basic Motorola Bluetooth at present.
Here’s a link to the soft coding...
https://audiforum.us/threads/vag-codes-for-rns-e.55/
Mine was coded 0509113
0= Always 0
5= A6
0= Diagnostics for front speakers inactive (not A4 cabriolet)
9= Bose soundsystem
1= No telephone
1= Default (standard radio,no AUX in)
3= CD changer (Phatbox)
Also to get the navigation in the DIS (dashboard display) you need to go to #17 (Instrument Cluster) > Adaptation -> Function 10 -> Channel 62
It should show a ‘1’ for radio so to get the nav to display you have to add ‘4’ to that value making ‘5’ the input required.You can then toggle the stalk between nav info or temp/mileage/mpg,etc.
Since the install the DIS always returns to nav display by default so I need to investigate in the future whether that can be changed,if desired.
So that’s how it was done with my install,however at least I thought it was but when the unit had the software downgraded the unit immediately became code locked.
I had been in contact with the seller and from our conversations I had no reason to believe I was being duped here.I did a bit of research and also went to see my local Audi dealer in Oxford.They were really helpful and spent the best part of an hour trying to figure it out but with no success and it only cost me a batch of fairy cakes for their time!
What I did find out is that the pin code on my unit had been changed in the past so was not the original code but even the original code would not unlock it.I now found myself the owner of a RNSE-PU paperweight/doorstop.
After some frantic googling and phoning around I was beginning to get a feeling of despair until I got in touch with the people at Sat Nav Systems…
http://www.satnavsystems.com/diagnostics-repairs/
They quoted me £90 to unlock it or nothing if it couldn’t be done.As they were only 60 miles away I took the S3 out for a little cruise and dropped it off with them and a few days later received the good news that the unit had been unlocked.
Unfortunately it is not all good news as it appears my unit has a ‘checkered’ past and every time they tried to upgrade/downgrade the software,the unit would become code locked again so they advised me to keep it at 0210 software which means it has to run on a 2010/2011 nav disc.I can live with that for now.
All in all including the cost of the code unlocking the budget for this install has still come in under £400 and I now have a much better OEM system with sat nav and 64gb of music to load up on SD cards.I haven’t even started to play about with it and see what it can actually do,but in my opinion,it looks so much better than the Symphony II and really updates the cabin.
Obviously,as a disclaimer,I take no responsibility for anyone else’s install,just my own.
Here’s the money shots,hope you like what you see...
I guess I’ll have to sell on my Phatbox now and I’ve become emotionally attached to that,it’s hacked to 60gb,it’s retro,and I love the voice commands but I expect it will have to go sometime soon as the mp3 SD cards give more info and are easier to operate even though you won’t get a lovely lady announcing “The next playlist is Motorhead” which is a somewhat pleasant experience.