new s3 amk owner looking for inspiration

Thanks Karl. so to confirm from your picture

"to wastegate and to charge pipe" replace the MBC and the turbo intake goes into the plugged air intake.

that's excellent help, I will try this tomorrow evening
 
I have been so busy sorry, I will update at the weekend.
I hear what sounds like scraping quietly on boost but louder when changing gear! I thought it was the forge splitter - so bought a blanking cap, Am I stupidly dreaming it is the dump valve inners still rotating somehow when really it is something with the turbo fan blades bent or damaged etc?
I wonder if there is a service kit fir the turbo eg ptfe bushes etc?
I might just get a basic bosch 710N DV to rule that out.
 
Re servicing the haldex, it can be done on axle stands.

There is a specific part for removing the haldex filter. Dont think it can be done without.

Nice car :)
 
Hi,

Okay to update my non progress.

I do have the filter spanner - GSF said I can drop the wrong filter off at a shop and they will send back for a refund.

The scrapping noise is normal dump value behaviour (apparently) - maybe not so noisy if a stock DV rather than forge splitter - I have capped the splitter currently too.

The driver door mechanism is in need of servicing somewhat, sometimes it doesn't close and it opened on its own yesterday through the s's :) I will push the lock button when driving for the time being. ;)

I want to buy new discs and pads all round and replace the fluid after the other bits on my list.
 
Hi, what have I find today!

1. Removed MBC and connected N75.
My longer pipe of the n75 is on the other side, but I connected still using the guide . in simple terms.
a. Charge pipe goes to the top connector of the metal pipe in the centre of the engine above the breather recirculation hose.
B. wastegate goes to the pipe disappearing down to the exhaust.
C. Turbo inlet goes to the big rubber air connector after filter and maf and before the metal pipe where the charge pipe and breather recirculation are.

So the car has lost a lot of power and aggression, it is quieter on the dump valve, maybe it is just smoother? I will run for a couple of weeks too see how it is, fuel consumption wise, but it just feels like a normal car now. The boost pressure goes to about 13.5 psi.



2. Haldex filter and oil change. I think the £10 spanner was cheaper because it is badly made. I found it only just had enough clearance to undo , but once undone enough to use your fingers I couldnt get the spanner out, and there wasn't enough clearance to keep undoing it. So ground off a few mm from the handle to make it easier to undo / do up. And a little off the top to fully undo the filter / get it out the way.
Had a sudden dash to gsf, after the stopper fell out the back of the haldex, when preparing to put it in. Not much old oil came out, and it was pretty mucky, Bennetts have never heard of "haldex oil" ?

Bought a symphony 2 CD player from an Audi a6, this is a tiny bit wider, Maybe 2 mm and has some trim at the bottom which makes it too tall, also a small connector is the wrong gender, will get a code and test it before I start shaving bits off.

I would be interested to know, whether it is normal to not have a surge of power as I was getting before. Would the boost pressure be the difference? I read an article here where someone was struggling to get a massive 350bhp but that was only 16 psi. So it can't just the mbc, I wonder whether the mbc was compensating for a leak or something?

Have a good weekend.
 
Sounds like you have it plugged in right. (Pics help)

Now see what it boosts to with the N75 electrically unplugged.

You could have a standard map, and someone has tried to increase performance with the MBC..... This is not good.

Ultimately I think you would benefit from visiting an independent specialist who knows these cars, and can find out a lot more with VCDS
 
Thanks Karl, I will check with it unplugged, I think there is a place in Hertfordshire "quantum tuning" - just dubious of garages, who might simply say "no, its not done" or "yes, it is done" - and charge me £200 :)

I will try a clear photo tomorrow - it has a bit of a temporary pipe on at the moment as the connector to the turbo inlet is 8mm after having a massive bolt capping the hole, so at the moment I have an adapter from 8mm to 4mm, then back to 8mm pinched with tie wraps on the N75, and the N75 is tie wrapped to the cross member

What I have noticed though is that the engine rev's don't keep rising after I back off the throttle - making gear changes much smoother.
 
I know you are going to be cross! Okay so disconnected electronic connector, no eml light the car is boosting too high eg 23-24psi. But feels great, honestly the best so far.. in third it goes through the boost straight up to 5.5-6k rpm because of the longitudinal sensor fault will wheel spin / torque steer through the end of the turbo boost 4.5-5k rpm. With the mbc connected the car felt dead after 4.5 and too "out of control" leading up to 3k eg never sure when it would boost. I only drive 6-7 miles through lanes after warmed up but the same loop I always do.

I know this is boosting too high and ruining
 
Hi here is a photo a the N75, ignore the haphazard piping, I can trim some of the fat silicon pipe and get a 8mm connector directly from the air intake once I know this set up is okay. I will reconnect the electrical connection to the N75, just weird it naturally allows 24psi when disconnected and only 13.5 when joined up.

Thanks for all you help and I will see if someone can check it over in a week or two, as am away next week.

Screenshot 2015 10 18 14 38 00
 
Lmao
Now I'm a fan of cable ties don't get me wrong, they come in handy for a lot of things but securing boost lines like that, not so much!

Please please please, to save yourself embarrassment when you take it somewhere, order the right size silicon hose off eBay and pipe it correctly with proper clips.

I can't even tell whether that's installed correctly as its so unclear. But if you're getting that sort of boost when unplugged, and it should be actuator pressure, then that suggest someone has wound that right up to make it boost.
Your engine is safer with it plugged in only running 13psi, I'd leave it like that till a decent pair of eyes (no offence) looks over it
 
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Well - I did say it is a temporary mess, as a test over the MBC, hence why I left all the pipes the right length to reconnect to that if this was knackered.

I am not even sure where that N75 is supposed to attach to, maybe the bracket removed with the N249?, Your picture had a bracket on mine doesn't, it was previously just tied down under the main inlet, and I think they cut the inlet down and stuffed an M10 bolt in.

Maybe I should get another N75, they are only about £30.
 
Long nozzle of the N75 goes into the TIP, the one at the bottom gets boost and the short one opposite the long one in the TIP goes to the actuator

The split-r(se) goes in the bin

<tuffty/>
 
Hi, Thanks Tufty - (I have capped the splitter which apparently is supposed to now be the same as a DV007) - but have been advised a simple Bosch 710N - is the best option.

so I joined mine up the same as Karl's Picture based on orientation of the electronic connector, but my long pipe was on the opposite side to his example - So I think it is probably connected backwards. eg the long pipe on mine is going down toward the turbo, top connector the charge pipe and other to the air inlet (eg the non blue hose.)

I will try and flip it over and see if unconnected the boost is 10-11psi. (unless of course connecting it the wrong way round has bust it now.)

IMAG1157
 
connect it as per the picture Karl posted based on the length of the ports; you got the middle (top) port correct, the side ports you need to swap

this will have caused the massive boost you saw when you disconnected it
 
Hi Alex, Karl, Tufty

Thanks for your help

Okay so right way round and plugged in this morning boosted to 13.5 psi
unplugged on way home in second gear hard acceleration managed about 11psi for a tiny moment - usually around 4 psi in 3rd 4th 5th 6th

I suppose this is right but no better than my 2002 1.2 8v 60 Punto.

So I assume this proves the N75 is working correctly - and will connect it up neatly.

What is the real issue with high boost pressure? Is it lean running and melting or leaks etc I will say when at rest after driving it still smells of oil which I assumed was a boost leak or breather leak and related to the high pressure.
 
audi upgrades
That sounds reasonable. Leave it like that.

Yes incredibly lean, and probably why it felt fast, but that enjoyment wouldn't last long.

I would now suggest turning attention to solving any error codes stored on the ECU, boost/vac leaks, simplifying the breather system, changing DV to a 710n, servicing etc. before finally taking it to a reputable tuner so you can get your smile back, and be happy in the knowledge that the car is running and tuned properly
 
Thanks for your help

So far...
plugs
oil + filter
haldex + filter
replaced a coil
Not sure I need to do anything with cda
No ecu faults - although I am sure it has hiccupped a couple of times in the morning when started from cold.

I want to do the catch can mod
Change brakes and discs
Sort out driver door mechanism
Head light rear sensor
Sort out radio
I think the exhaust is blowing slightly.
 
Hi,

Well obviously the 710N DV from a golf 1.8T was bound to be perfect. I am assuming I have the orientation the correct way around boost is usually around 16.5 PSI but after a full and hard acceleration noticed it had peeked at 20 PSI, plus it is quieter.

Thanks for you invaluable help :)

Once I have done brakes fluid, discs and pads, longditual sensor - (edit) will consider a professional to check the apparent stage 1 mapping

Personally, I sense the rear left wheel bearings are iffy, just feels a bit hummy around 70(+ a tiny bit)

I just have a slow moving classic addiction eg I have a busy job + 1.2 punto needing readying for daily run around + decorating + my son needs a new car + my daughter is 8 months preggers + my wife is waiting for her license renewal + the dogs + the cats + etc etc etc .....

I will fit this in but will appear lazy - I am not!!! :)

thanks Karl and Tufty for insisting I scrap the £176 Forge DV and use and £18 Bosch 710N
 
Last edited:
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on first cold start up, with the bonnet open there is actually quite a bit of smoke / steam from the exhaust manifold area ( centre of the engine below firewall rising up ) I am not particularly concerned about this being anything terminal, but something must be either putting something there from the last run or there is a leak which is only noticeable when the engine is cold.

Is this likely to be a cracked manifold, blowing exhaust or something more sinister, with the crazy MBC 30psi boost setup and burnt plugs pointing to extra heat - I wonder whether the manifold is cracked?

Thanks
 
well when I changed the oil there was oil on the plug and I assumed / hoped the oil was because of the sump plug washer, but it is the lowest part of the engine so may well be an oil leak working down, I hate changing oil leak components as they tend to simply move to the next most expensive component because there is some £3.50 breather blocked somewhere.

if a manifold are these simply replaced nowadays rather than welded like the olden days?

I will try and video the smoky / steam I am sure it is rising rather than being jettisoned.

Thanks
 
Hi,

I have a "longditual abs sensor" fault - can anyone confirm on my 2001 S3 this is the G202 sensor and behind the glove box at a cost of around £110?

I have seen conflicting discussions about it being on the steering column or I may have a combi sensor which is on the steering column?

Many Thanks
 
Stuart B said:
Hi,

I have a "longditual abs sensor" fault - can anyone confirm on my 2001 S3 this is the G202 sensor and behind the glove box at a cost of around £110?

I have seen conflicting discussions about it being on the steering column or I may have a combi sensor which is on the steering column?

Many Thanks
Click to expand...
Correct it's behind the glovebox.
The long and Lat sensors are actually the same part, just mounted differently
 
Thanks Karl,
so do you know if the part is G200 (a small sensor @ £50) or G202 (a large sensor @ £110) as G200 is deemed a lateral sensor but G202 is a yaw sensor.

I will try and look tomorrow I suppose it will obvious to look at.
 
The codes description was "longitudinal acceleration sensor" both ABS and ESP lights come on occasionally if I accelerate hard (the code can only be read whilst the lights are showing) you cannot use the ESP button when these lights are on, they disappear after switch on and off.

so I suppose from the actual error the sensor is G251?

-----------------
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Monday, 12 October 2015, 07:54:14.
Control Module Part Number: 8N0 907 379 E
Component and/or Version: ESP 20 CAN V005
Software Coding: 18448
Work Shop Code: WSC 06435
VCID: 3E0FBDFB296F

1 Fault Found:
01279 - Longitudinal Acceleration Sensor (G251)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
------------------


maybe this is okay?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lateral-A...108304?hash=item3f55a97410:g:b0oAAOSwl9BWI-cQ


Thanks
 
Thanks I read a few - hence my confusion also conflicting comments on requiring a reset / calibration of ABS - but I don't think it does - now I am sure of the part I should be okay to get this sorted.

Trying to keep on top of the faults list is stopping me buying the bits I really want to eg new brakes (they look like they have loads of life but are just rubbish, maybe I will try just fluid to start with :)
 
oh I see looks like it originally was a different part 1J1 907 638 then replaced with the same part as the lateral 1J0 907 651A which is better as it is only £45.

I don't think my VCDS Lite has the capability to reset / re-calibrate these sensors - but I suppose it is worth a go first.

Thanks again for your continued support
 
What you can do in vcds lite is access the lat/long sensor readings, it's in ABS, measuring blocks and then I'm not sure which number exactly.
Then you can fiddle with the sensor to see if it will read correctly. They are very sensitive and it might just be a case of it knocked out of position
 
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