8V VCDS Mods

any updated codes?
I ran a test with my login finder yesterday, the first time I have used it, testing the range 10000 to 20000 (03 ABS) and found 2 previously unpublished codes :)

Long story short I did not take note of them due to timing, took 45mins to complete, as I had to be somewhere. I will be running the "finder" in full tomorrow to see what it turns up.
 
also do you know where I can find in the system the section where I can turn off the shift lock out? this is the lock out where you need to press on the brake pedal to shift the gear lever.
 
I've found something interesting on a Russian site auto-retrofit.ru that socalled SRT Can Connect would be able to activate the Drive Select on audi a3 8v. I've already sent several emails to the seller but I still haven't received an answer.
 
also do you know where I can find in the system the section where I can turn off the shift lock out? this is the lock out where you need to press on the brake pedal to shift the gear lever.
Have not seen an adaptation for this as yet.
 
I've found something interesting on a Russian site auto-retrofit.ru that socalled SRT Can Connect would be able to activate the Drive Select on audi a3 8v. I've already sent several emails to the seller but I still haven't received an answer.
Interesting...

Cannot find any further information on it though, and the site is out of stock :( At £30 it might be worth a punt.
 
Hi all,

I would like to re-adjust my mpg reading to be more accurate in my DIS. I have seen this done on other platforms but before I go to get this done, could somebody please confirm whether it still applies for our 8v cars? Anyone tried this yet?


http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/dis-fuel-consumption-correction.181501/

Correct Fuel consumption in DIS (C7): (Revised)

[17-Instruments]
[Coding - 07] > [Adaptation - 10]
Scroll down about 20 items in the drop down list until you see something like fuel consumption adaptation - change the value from 100 to higher or lower:
Example - if your DIS is consistently off by 7% to your actual calculated mpg:
You RAISE the number to the percentage if DIS is OVER reporting mpg (i.e. 107)
You LOWER the number to the percentage if DIS is UNDER reporting mpg (i.e. 93)


Thanks
 
Hi all,

I would like to re-adjust my mpg reading to be more accurate in my DIS. I have seen this done on other platforms but before I go to get this done, could somebody please confirm whether it still applies for our 8v cars? Anyone tried this yet?


http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/dis-fuel-consumption-correction.181501/

Correct Fuel consumption in DIS (C7): (Revised)

[17-Instruments]
[Coding - 07] > [Adaptation - 10]
Scroll down about 20 items in the drop down list until you see something like fuel consumption adaptation - change the value from 100 to higher or lower:
Example - if your DIS is consistently off by 7% to your actual calculated mpg:
You RAISE the number to the percentage if DIS is OVER reporting mpg (i.e. 107)
You LOWER the number to the percentage if DIS is UNDER reporting mpg (i.e. 93)


Thanks

This seems to explain it well :-

http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/dis-fuel-consumption-correction.181501/#post-1800875
 
  • Like
Reactions: SJ43
Hi all,

I would like to re-adjust my mpg reading to be more accurate in my DIS. I have seen this done on other platforms but before I go to get this done, could somebody please confirm whether it still applies for our 8v cars? Anyone tried this yet?


http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/dis-fuel-consumption-correction.181501/

Correct Fuel consumption in DIS (C7): (Revised)

[17-Instruments]
[Coding - 07] > [Adaptation - 10]
Scroll down about 20 items in the drop down list until you see something like fuel consumption adaptation - change the value from 100 to higher or lower:
Example - if your DIS is consistently off by 7% to your actual calculated mpg:
You RAISE the number to the percentage if DIS is OVER reporting mpg (i.e. 107)
You LOWER the number to the percentage if DIS is UNDER reporting mpg (i.e. 93)


Thanks
Is being talked about from post #1453 within this thread :)
 
17 - Instruments
  • Adaptations
  • (1)-Offset for tank calibration values-Offset sensor 1
  • (2)-Offset for tank calibration values-Offset sensor 2
  • (3)-Offset for tank calibration values-Offset sensor 3
  • (4)-Offset for tank calibration values-Offset sensor 4
  • (5)-Offset for tank calibration values-Complete tank calibration

  • Range is -12.8 to +8 with -12.8l being the factory default.
  • <0 moves the needle down.
  • =0 no change/movement
  • >0 move needle up.
  • +1 = needle moves up by ~1/16 up
  • +2 = needle moves up by ~⅛ up
so I just finished testing this feature. I am now able to adjust the estimated left over fuel and the led fuel gauge. i know now what i need to do as to set it closer to what i should be showing.
the goal here for some who don't know, is to have the estimator and fuel gauge show closer to empty. as we all know when the fuel gauge shows empty we are able to drive a bit more, how much more i don't know for sure as i have not tested it but i will soon.

the way i plan on calibrating this is to run the tank empty and set the gauge to show no led bars or all blanked out led bars of fuel. plus it will also show in the fuel estimator "0 miles".

the technique which i have done on another car is to have at least two tanks of gasoline jugs in the garage when this procedure is done.
1. just drive the car like normal till your absolutely sure its as low as it can be by the time you drive home. make sure you not out and stuck somewhere.
2. just let the car idle till its empty and stalls out.
3. go into vcds and adjust the gauges with the instructions above.
*continue at the bottom.

instructions for vcds (look above):
i used code 20103
audi S3 sedan 2015

i don't know what (3) & (4) does. i couldn't get any numbers to go into it to test it.
the main one you want to use is (2) sensor 2. this lets you adjust up and down by 50 miles. *increments of 5 miles.
sensor (1) & (4) seems to fine tune the increments but still at 5 miles.

you need to be on the gauge selection with how many miles you have left in the tank to do this adjustment. the adjustment is realtime and will change as you hit "do it".

what RANGE numbers are possible:

"-12.8" = free floating stock setting. middle but lets the other sensors adjust the final number.

"0" = same as "-12.8" but locks it in the middle. so i assume this locks the sender in the fuel tank to a specific voltage and just reads it as the middle number. think of this as the middle number at all times no matter the fuel level. its the middle number for the high and low range you can adjust and not the middle of whats left in the tank.

while in sensor 2:
max = 8.0
min = -8.0
middle= 0
stock = -12.8

each +/- 1.0 change will roughly give you +/- 5miles to your estimation. the fuel gauge led will change automatically as you change the miles left over.

while in sensor 1:
max = 0
min = -8.0
stock = -12.8
if you put in anything between 0 - 8 nothing will change.
in the sensor it allows you to drop it but not increase the miles left over.

each +/- 1.0 change will roughly give you +/- 5miles to your estimation. the fuel gauge led will change automatically as you change the miles left over.


while in sensor 5:
this seems to be a more finite adjuster.
it doesn't move the miles much but i noticed if you max out sensor 2: 8.0 and need another 5 miles added then max this sensor out at 8.0.

max = 8.0
min = -8.0
middle= 0
stock = -12.8

*increments can be adjusted as low as +/-0.1 but this would take forever. i would only use 0.5 when doing the final adjustment.

4. once the car has stalled out in a safe location like a parking stall, then adjust the miles till you see it showing 5 miles. when you see this use one less complete digit so that it shows "0" miles. the idea behind the full 1.0 digit change is to make sure that if there are inclines or other discrepancies it will still give you a short warning rather than still showing 5 miles. as 5 miles is the lowest amount it does show before going to 0.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: davey6693, Fiddie, Rob2k68 and 1 other person
17 - Instruments
  • Adaptations
  • (1)-Offset for tank calibration values-Offset sensor 1
  • (2)-Offset for tank calibration values-Offset sensor 2
  • (3)-Offset for tank calibration values-Offset sensor 3
  • (4)-Offset for tank calibration values-Offset sensor 4
  • (5)-Offset for tank calibration values-Complete tank calibration

  • Range is -12.8 to +8 with -12.8l being the factory default.
  • <0 moves the needle down.
  • =0 no change/movement
  • >0 move needle up.
  • +1 = needle moves up by ~1/16 up
  • +2 = needle moves up by ~⅛ up
so I just finished testing this feature. I am now able to adjust the estimated left over fuel and the led fuel gauge. i know now what i need to do as to set it closer to what i should be showing.
the goal here for some who don't know, is to have the estimator and fuel gauge show closer to empty. as we all know when the fuel gauge shows empty we are able to drive a bit more, how much more i don't know for sure as i have not tested it but i will soon.

the way i plan on calibrating this is to run the tank empty and set the gauge to show no led bars or all blanked out led bars of fuel. plus it will also show in the fuel estimator "0 miles".

the technique which i have done on another car is to have at least two tanks of gasoline jugs in the garage when this procedure is done.
1. just drive the car like normal till your absolutely sure its as low as it can be by the time you drive home. make sure you not out and stuck somewhere.
2. just let the car idle till its empty and stalls out.
3. go into vcds and adjust the gauges with the instructions above.
*continue at the bottom.

instructions for vcds (look above):
i used code 20103
audi S3 sedan 2015

i don't know what (3) & (4) does. i couldn't get any numbers to go into it to test it.
the main one you want to use is (2) sensor 2. this lets you adjust up and down by 50 miles. *increments of 5 miles.
sensor (1) & (4) seems to fine tune the increments but still at 5 miles.

you need to be on the gauge selection with how many miles you have left in the tank to do this adjustment. the adjustment is realtime and will change as you hit "do it".

what RANGE numbers are possible:

"-12.8" = free floating stock setting. middle but lets the other sensors adjust the final number.

"0" = same as "-12.8" but locks it in the middle. so i assume this locks the sender in the fuel tank to a specific voltage and just reads it as the middle number. think of this as the middle number at all times no matter the fuel level. its the middle number for the high and low range you can adjust and not the middle of whats left in the tank.

while in sensor 2:
max = 8.0
min = -8.0
middle= 0
stock = -12.8

each +/- 1.0 change will roughly give you +/- 5miles to your estimation. the fuel gauge led will change automatically as you change the miles left over.

while in sensor 1:
max = 0
min = -8.0
stock = -12.8
if you put in anything between 0 - 8 nothing will change.
in the sensor it allows you to drop it but not increase the miles left over.

each +/- 1.0 change will roughly give you +/- 5miles to your estimation. the fuel gauge led will change automatically as you change the miles left over.


while in sensor 5:
this seems to be a more finite adjuster.
it doesn't move the miles much but i noticed if you max out sensor 2: 8.0 and need another 5 miles added then max this sensor out at 8.0.

max = 8.0
min = -8.0
middle= 0
stock = -12.8

*increments can be adjusted as low as +/-0.1 but this would take forever. i would only use 0.5 when doing the final adjustment.

4. once the car has stalled out in a safe location like a parking stall, then adjust the miles till you see it showing 5 miles. when you see this use one less complete digit so that it shows "0" miles. the idea behind the full 1.0 digit change is to make sure that if there are inclines or other discrepancies it will still give you a short warning rather than still showing 5 miles. as 5 miles is the lowest amount it does show before going to 0.
Wow, what a great write up!

Edit: Just to say again... what a great write up! :)
 
Is being talked about from post #1453 within this thread :)

Thanks @DJAlix , the only thing is this is referring to recalibration of the the fuel dial whilst I wanted to change my mpg reading in the trip to read a more accurate figure for e.g it reads 40mpg when in reality its 38mpg. Seen it on other theads (as above) but wasnt 100% sure it worked on 8V's or not.
 
Thanks @DJAlix , the only thing is this is referring to recalibration of the the fuel dial whilst I wanted to change my mpg reading in the trip to read a more accurate figure for e.g it reads 40mpg when in reality its 38mpg. Seen it on other theads (as above) but wasnt 100% sure it worked on 8V's or not.
Doh! My bad. I am not sure about the DIS reading to be honest.
 
Argh, i cant decide if VCDS is a worth while investment or not.

once i've done a few adaptions, i don't think ill use it again.

i have diagnostic equipment at the moment, so the only advantage of it is coding...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rob2k68
Ya that reminds me to write them a nice lengthy letter about my experience with Audi and how I've been quite disappointed overall. You'd think when buying a luxury brand you'd get somewhat of that experience but its been really like pulling teeth.
I'm in NC and got the ADS retrofit from Bernardi in MA. First dealer here in Charlotte did the retrofit but they messed it up a bit (didn't clear out the undervoltage errors), so I fixed that when I got home with VCDS.
Did they enable efficiency on yours by any chance? I didn't get that despite the kit saying it got it so I need to write to AoA myself. I also tried the freewheel clutch mod btw and it doesn't work.. Also, if you haven't yet, you can set the "*" button on the steering wheel to toggle the ADS if you didn't fit the center button. You can set the "*" assignment through MMI.
 
I'm in NC and got the ADS retrofit from Bernardi in MA. First dealer here in Charlotte did the retrofit but they messed it up a bit (didn't clear out the undervoltage errors), so I fixed that when I got home with VCDS.
Did they enable efficiency on yours by any chance? I didn't get that despite the kit saying it got it so I need to write to AoA myself. I also tried the freewheel clutch mod btw and it doesn't work.. Also, if you haven't yet, you can set the "*" button on the steering wheel to toggle the ADS if you didn't fit the center button. You can set the "*" assignment through MMI.

Ya i specifically asked for them to enable efficiency mode. I have it but doesn't disengage the clutch like its suppose to do. You tried the freewheel vcd coding and it didn't work?

[quote uid=96354 name="DJalix" post=2682915]...Check the following:
19 - Can Gateway
Long Coding
Byte 12
Bit 2 - Drive Program Function "Free Wheel/Clutch" Active[/QUOTE]
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: kc1174
Ya i specifically asked for them to enable. i have it but doesn't disengage the clutch like its suppose to do. You tried the freewheel vcd coding and it didn't work?
Yeah they told me only the 4 in the US... Lying f*%#s.. If you have efficiency then the freewheel clutch should already be working when you're in that mode :) The reason I tried to code it was because I didn't have efficiency if you see what I mean. In efficiency from what I understand if your foot's off the gas and you're coasting, it effectively goes into neutral. Not sure how much by (i.e. do the rpms drop to 750 or so like they do if you manually put in in neutral), but I tried with and without the freewheel coding at different speeds and didn't see any changes. I need to speak to my dealer again about efficiency.. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: rcnacura
Yeah they told me only the 4 in the US... Lying f*%#s.. If you have efficiency then the freewheel clutch should already be working when you're in that mode :) The reason I tried to code it was because I didn't have efficiency if you see what I mean. In efficiency from what I understand if your foot's off the gas and you're coasting, it effectively goes into neutral. Not sure how much by (i.e. do the rpms drop to 750 or so like they do if you manually put in in neutral), but I tried with and without the freewheel coding at different speeds and didn't see any changes. I need to speak to my dealer again about efficiency.. :)
Getting vcd cable tomorrow, so going to see if the code is enabled. Considering none of the dealers ever want to do anything, I'm sure they didn't do it right. They said it would void my warranty... audi parts voiding my warranty, yes please explain that... *rolling eyes*

Do you have a Premium? i can run a scan using the cable and that will probably enable the efficiency move with the long choosing if they refuse.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kc1174
Getting vcd cable tomorrow, so going to see if the code is enabled. Considering none of the dealers ever want to do anything, I'm sure they didn't do it right. They said it would void my warranty... audi parts voiding my warranty, yes please explain that... *rolling eyes*

Do you have a Premium? i can run a scan using the cable and that will probably enable the efficiency move with the long choosing if they refuse.
I seemed to get lucky with my dealer here as they were all Audi owners themselves so they all had VCDS themselves. One of them is checking on auto rain closing coding - they did it on their S4 so they're finding that out for me.
For the ADS retrofit, their only concern was they hadn't seen it before and so asked me to come in during the week in the morning so Wolfsburg were open if they had trouble. Which they did, but the undervoltage error is right there in the instructions so I've no idea how they didn't clear that. Never any mention of voiding warranty or anything crazy like that, unless they're not sure of what they're doing (hence the detailed instructions)..
Mine is a 2015 premium plus, *cough* diesel *cough*, but if you're able to see anything in vcds related to ADS we can give it a go cheers! The fact mine is already enabled I think is the main hurdle with this. I know Alex has been looking at how to possibly get ADS on non-ADS cars, so maybe adding a drive mode to an ADS enabled car might be simpler. Apparently there's also "race" and "offroad" modes for other models. I don't think they'd work on ours.. Since I have a diesel, I need to find a "clean" mode where my mpg's go through the floor and it drinks adblue.. ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: rcnacura
auto rain closing only worked on 2013-2014 uk models unfortunately. The new rain sensor was changed for 2015.

Be interested in the race mode and what that might do .

Also no one has been able to get ads working properly. I was able to permanently get the steering feel to sport, but couldn't do it on the fly. Someone was mentioning a Russian site that enabled, but wasn't confirmed.

Are you apart of the class action lawsuit? You'll have quite a bit of money supposedly coming your way. Someone else got a lawyer and was able to return their car and get all their money back.
 
@DJAlix Do you know if VCD coding is required from single zone HVAC to dual HVAC? I know there are a bunch of other hardware required, but wanted to play around as I have the vcd cable this weekend to see if I can get the controls to work better. So far the fan and seat warmers work, but not the other buttons - granted there is also another connector in the back too.
 
@DJAlix Do you know if VCD coding is required from single zone HVAC to dual HVAC? I know there are a bunch of other hardware required, but wanted to play around as I have the vcd cable this weekend to see if I can get the controls to work better. So far the fan and seat warmers work, but not the other buttons - granted there is also another connector in the back too.
I believe there is some coding involved but in the change over but I have never seen a car without dual HVAC so never investigated it. I believe the physicals of the retrofit are very involved also.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rcnacura
any updated codes?
So I finally managed to get some "code finding" works done today, but only on 03 - ABS and only within the range of 00000 to 70000.

Here is what I have found so far:
  1. 10815 = New (RAU)
  2. 11122 = New (RAU)
  3. 11966 = New (RAU)
  4. 14108 = New (RAU)
  5. 14451 = New (RAU)
  6. 15081 = Known (RAU)
  7. 20103 = Known (Main Control Module Security Access Code)
  8. 24435 = Known (RAU)
  9. 24990 = New (RAU)
  10. 25004 = Known (RAU)
  11. 25377 = New (RAU)
  12. 25757 = New (RAU)
  13. 31857 = Known (RAU)
  14. 32304 = New (RAU)
  15. 33776 = New (RAU)
  16. 33777 = New (RAU)
  17. 37201 = New (RAU)
  18. 37302 = Known (RAU)
  19. 37203 = New (RAU)
  20. 37483 = New (RAU)
  21. 40168 = Known (RAU)
  22. 40304 = New (RAU)
  • New = Newly found code
  • Known = Previously published code
  • RAU = Related Adaptation Unknown
To be continued...
 
I believe there is some coding involved but in the change over but I have never seen a car without dual HVAC so never investigated it. I believe the physicals of the retrofit are very involved also.

Ya I believe it requires the humidity sensor, and additional cabin temp sensors. I'll poke around, if I can get the temp to raise and lower along with control the airflow control, be interesting to get this to work. Wonder which section this is all in. Will report back if I find anything interesting.
 
Ya I believe it requires the humidity sensor, and additional cabin temp sensors. I'll poke around, if I can get the temp to raise and lower along with control the airflow control, be interesting to get this to work. Wonder which section this is all in. Will report back if I find anything interesting.
Yer, 100% need a Humidity Sensor. Additional cabin sensor = a Sunlight Sensor (different from a Light Sensor). The Sun Light Sensor is located in the center of the Dash, under the speaker grill.
 
  1. 10815 = New (RAU)
  2. 11122 = New (RAU)
  3. 11966 = New (RAU)
  4. 14108 = New (RAU)
  5. 14451 = New (RAU)
  6. 15081 = Known (RAU)
  7. 20103 = Known (Main Control Module Security Access Code)
  8. 24435 = Known (RAU)
  9. 24990 = New (RAU)
  10. 25004 = Known (RAU)
  11. 25377 = New (RAU)
  12. 25757 = New (RAU)
  13. 31857 = Known (RAU)
  14. 32304 = New (RAU)
  15. 33776 = New (RAU)
  16. 33777 = New (RAU)
  17. 37201 = New (RAU)
  18. 37302 = Known (RAU)
  19. 37203 = New (RAU)
  20. 37483 = New (RAU)
  21. 40168 = Known (RAU)
  22. 40304 = New (RAU)
  • New = Newly found code
  • Known = Previously published code
  • RAU = Related Adaptation Unknown
Thanks for that. ill work on it today.

#3 ABS
#10 ADAPTION
(1) electromechnical parking brake - automatic application. set it to "disable

I just wanted to double check with you on the numbers that are known from before because I just checked it.

new list #3 that was from the old

new list #18 is that an error as it seems close to the previous old number 37202, but you list #18 as known.

I don't want to lock up the system cause of number error.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DJAlix
Just double checked the list and have recompiled as attached. I need to run range 30000 to 40000 again to double check for "human" errors. As soon as my tablet is charged up I will pop out to the car.
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2016-03-18 at 13.37.43.png
    Screen Shot 2016-03-18 at 13.37.43.png
    131.2 KB · Views: 387
ill also be trying out this:
(03) ABS brakes
(16) security
20103
(10) adaption
brake disc drying

weak (default)
medium
strong
not active = off

its the brake drying feature.
I hope this will help with the second slow release of the brake. I always feel a slow hesitation when I release my foot off the brake pedal. like as if the brake takes a second just to release at the caliper.
 
ill also be trying out this:
(03) ABS brakes
(16) security
20103
(10) adaption
brake disc drying

weak (default)
medium
strong
not active = off

its the brake drying feature.
I hope this will help with the second slow release of the brake. I always feel a slow hesitation when I release my foot off the brake pedal. like as if the brake takes a second just to release at the caliper.
This needs a correct "individual" security access code :( Am about to update the ABS code list as I have now completed all available ranges.
 
what is an individual code?
will the security 20103 not work on this?
For some people the General security code 20103 has worked but for others, myself included, this code hasn't for Brake Disc Drying. Ross-Tech have stated that Adaptation channels may have their own individual codes, hence the reason for compiling the list.

Using Brake Disc Drying as an example, if 20103 does not work you will need to:
  1. Exit out of Adaptations
  2. Enter Security Access
  3. Enter one of the additional codes
  4. Enter Adaptations
  5. Select Brake Disc Drying
  6. Do It!
  7. If the change is not accepted return to step 1 and repeat until the needed code is found
 
code 37302 does NOT work. it will NOT accept.

using code 37483
worked for
#3 ABS
#10 ADAPTION
(1) electromechnical parking brake - automatic application. set it to "disable

I was able to change to deactivate.

but the action didn't do what I had hoped for.
the hand brake still activates when drivers door opens.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DJAlix
as for the brake drying, should I retry all the codes I tried for the parking brakes earlier?
 
code 37302 does NOT work. it will NOT accept.

using code 37483
worked for
#3 ABS
#10 ADAPTION
(1) electromechnical parking brake - automatic application. set it to "disable

I was able to change to deactivate.

but the action didn't do what I had hoped for.
the hand brake still activates when drivers door opens.
37302 was a typo, 37202 is what should have been written.

Thanks for the information, added to the sheet. Any idea of what functionality the adaptation did change?
 
I'm half way through. my laptop battery died. grabbing my wall plug now. going to try to finish all your codes in the next 30mins.
 
I was able to get code 40304 to take it.
it was successful to change the settings.

(03) ABS brakes
(16) security
40304
(10) adaption
brake disc drying

weak (default)
medium
strong
not active = off


in addition I was able to test from you list starting from 10815 - 40304
other than whats stated as not working, the others all work and are tested.
in hindsight I should have went backwards as it seems that the higher numbers worked more often. it would have saved me some time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rcnacura
I was able to get code 40304 to take it.
it was successful to change the settings.

(03) ABS brakes
(16) security
40304
(10) adaption
brake disc drying

weak (default)
medium
strong
not active = off


in addition I was able to test from you list starting from 10815 - 40304
other than whats stated as not working, the others all work and are tested.
I found an additional x3 codes, updated above in a screenshot:
  • 74999
  • 75201
  • 75202
Will add the Drying to the sheet :)
 
Please try "Seat belt buckle scan activated"
 

Similar threads

Replies
21
Views
4K
Replies
1
Views
7K
Replies
6
Views
2K