Fairly urgent audio question

[kanecullen89]

Hi all,

I am posting this audio question on here because its a fairly urgent request and I know replies can take a while on the ICE section.

My Concert 2 stereo is knackered and basic. Only plays basic CDs and the volume control is knackered. I have a Sony GT710 stereo lying around with Ipod control so I'm going to install that (no going to look great but cheapest way for me to get good working audio).

This is a picture of the wiring:


1 is the amp remote wire from the headunit.
2 is the ignition switch from the headunit
3 is the power feed from the antenna
4 is the amp remote 12v switch from the connect 2 ctsad003 harness

Now I know that I need to connect 1 and 4 together to get the factory amp to turn on. I also have to get power to 3 so I'm guessing I have to splice this into number 4 as well but number 2 does not have any cables going to it from the ctsad003 harness so do I have to connect number 2 to number 4 as well?

That would be all 4 wires connected together. Is this correct?
Would any of the connections cause problems with the others? 1, 2 and 3 all seem to need an ignition power feed which 4 provides. I cant think of any other way it could be done.

Please help

Kane

 

[kanecullen89]

P.s - I've searched everywhere for an answer with no luck

 

[OCD-A3]

If I'm understanding correctly, 2 is the switched 12v input, right? What colour is the wire? The car does not have a switched 12v wire to the head unit, the stock HU gets its on/off signal from the CAN bus. Does your adapter harness have a CAN module? If so, there should be a switched 12v lead to connect the HU to. Otherwise, you'll have to tap a switched 12v elsewhere, I'd recommend pulling it from the rear wiper fuse.

The antenna amplifier lead (3) can be tied in with 1 and 4, but if your head unit has a power antenna lead it would be preferable to attach it to that. It should be a blue wire, possibly the empty lead to the right of 1 in your pic.

You are correct about attaching 1 and 4.

 

[Sidhu88]

1 to 4

Split 2 with wire strippers, by this i mean remove the plastic surrounding to expose the copper core but do not cut the copper core, cut the end off 3, use wire strippers to expose a about an inch of copper wire, wrap that around 2. Wrap it all with insulation tape.

3 can not be connected to 1 or 4 in this instance. 2 is ur powered antenna wire, and 3 is the antenna signal booster which needs the power from 3. Although depending on what year audi u have u may need a different adaptor because the aerial on most audi's are FAKRA not DIN

 

[kanecullen89]

It is a din aerial as its only a 55 reg.

Thanks for your replies. It's mega confusing. I have the ctsad003 which is a canbus enabled adapter. The blue cable is a feed provided by the harness which is a converted signal for ignition switch power but is also labeled as the amp remote :S

That does make sense what you're saying sidhu88. I've just checked the wiring diagram for the Sony cables and the blue is the power antenna control. I don't think I'll need to splice 3 into 2 because there is the spare space in the connect 2 harness where I can put that cable to connect directly into 2. Does that make sense?

 

[Sidhu88]

It is a din aerial as its only a 55 reg.

Thanks for your replies. It's mega confusing. I have the ctsad003 which is a canbus enabled adapter. The blue cable is a feed provided by the harness which is a converted signal for ignition switch power but is also labeled as the amp remote :S

That does make sense what you're saying sidhu88. I've just checked the wiring diagram for the Sony cables and the blue is the power antenna control. I don't think I'll need to splice 3 into 2 because there is the spare space in the connect 2 harness where I can put that cable to connect directly into 2. Does that make sense?

amp remote and ignition switch is the same thing, the amp just waits for the ignition to come on before turning itself on otherwise it would also be on and it would drain ur battery. Either which way in regards to connecting the antenna cable, just as long as its connected to the power antenna and not amp remote/ignition switch. I've seen people connect it to the spare permanent (yellow) but in most cases this does give feedback although the signal booster supposedly has an attenuator built in (or so i've been told by an electrical engineer, can't say whether its true or not). Anywho, splice into the powered antenna cable and all should be well. if you have any more issues pm me or reply here.

The connects2 cable is the best one to go for too, no need to run ur own ignition cable from the fusebox

 

[kanecullen89]

amp remote and ignition switch is the same thing, the amp just waits for the ignition to come on before turning itself on otherwise it would also be on and it would drain ur battery. Either which way in regards to connecting the antenna cable, just as long as its connected to the power antenna and not amp remote/ignition switch. I've seen people connect it to the spare permanent (yellow) but in most cases this does give feedback although the signal booster supposedly has an attenuator built in (or so i've been told by an electrical engineer, can't say whether its true or not). Anywho, splice into the powered antenna cable and all should be well. if you have any more issues pm me or reply here.

The connects2 cable is the best one to go for too, no need to run ur own ignition cable from the fusebox

You're a genius. Thanks for your help!!

 

[Ash187]

amp remote and ignition switch is the same thing, the amp just waits for the ignition to come on before turning itself on otherwise it would also be on and it would drain ur battery. Either which way in regards to connecting the antenna cable, just as long as its connected to the power antenna and not amp remote/ignition switch. I've seen people connect it to the spare permanent (yellow) but in most cases this does give feedback although the signal booster supposedly has an attenuator built in (or so i've been told by an electrical engineer, can't say whether its true or not). Anywho, splice into the powered antenna cable and all should be well. if you have any more issues pm me or reply here.

The connects2 cable is the best one to go for too, no need to run ur own ignition cable from the fusebox

Nicely said!

also Kane since you are using the connects2 cables make sure you connect the purple wires (reverse signal) and ground the long green wire to enable video in motion

 

[kanecullen89]

Nicely said!

also Kane since you are using the connects2 cables make sure you connect the purple wires (reverse signal) and ground the long green wire to enable video in motion

Cheers ash. Will be fitting as soon as the faceplate arrives