Forge actuator.....

Dani_B19

Dani_B19

Audi-sports own special child.
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This has been covered a few times i know, but.

Ive been offered a nearly new forge actuator for £60 delivered, which is well under half the retail price, now ive heard mixed reviews on them, are they really that bad?
Also, my cars 12 years old and on 120k miles now so i suspect the old actuator will be abit past its sell by date.

Whats your views lads?
 
They suffer from very little travel, stick when hot producing boost spikes and iffy boost control and the diaphragms can leak... I have seen some with a newer design that 'look' better in some aspects but still retain the plastic bush (that sticks) and travel doesn't appear to have improved but I have not really used a new one yet so could not comment if they are any better...

The Forge ones tend to suit bigger turbo/high boost setups (like Wellys for example) where control can be a little of a concern..

As a replacement for a std 0.5bar actuator on a std turbo I would personally prefer to fit an OEM style one...

Be wary of the spring rating if you do buy one... they tend to come with non std springs... which will give you a few issues on an un mapped engine..

<tuffty/>
 
So would you say its best to just leave alone PT? It would be going on my stage 2 unmapped s3, i know it needs mapping haha.
 
Stage 2 equipped my friend, and then some :), just minus the map haha.
 
Sorry, not looking to take over the thread, just a quick question as i'm new to these engines. How hard is it to change the actuator? As mine already had the forge one fitted when I bought the car, its only recently after reading some of the threads it seems i will be wanting to put a std one on. Thanks
 
Quite easy to do as i recall. I had one fitted when i got the car too & had to take it off to replace the diaphragm.
Not a big job.
 
just cos its forge actuator does'nt confirm its spec. they are available with different spring rates, so remembering your stock actuator and ecu is designed around 5psi opening, bare this in mind when choosing the spring rate you want to run.... mapping vs a significantly higher psi actuator may lead to large boost excursions... aka spike like a mofo... so check with your choice of mapper before adding it if I were you
 
Dan
Why all the changes yet no map?
Replace an actuator ( or adjust it ) when the map/vag com shows the car isnt making/holding requested boost.
As PT said... best left alone
 
I just havent got around to it mate and i know the clutch will pop as well, 120k and no proof of changing somits due out soon lol, also im happy at the minute with how fast it is, puts r32's, st's etc to shame so itll do until the clutch is changed.
 
Whats the "stage 2 +" level of kit?
Personaly i would want it mapping to avoid any of the new bits making the car run close to or over the limits of the map.
 
V2 b5 intake, jetex cone filter, welly cooler with 63 and 76mm pipework, 3" dp with 3" tbe decatted, ported inlet manifold with v6 tb, custome dv relocation with mad max dv, phenolic inlet gasket and forge non res hard pile, ooh and aome 2.0t coilpacks.
 
And a few other littlw bits and pieces but their the major mods
 
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If anyone is interested,I called up ce turbos today.they sell a OEM apex actuator for 90 delivered
 
Just havent got around to it and like said i havet got the reddies for the clutch as i know once mapped it will just slip as the car looks to be on the standard clutch at 120k.
 
audi upgrades
Paradox1 said:
If anyone is interested,I called up ce turbos today.they sell a OEM apex actuator for 90 delivered
Click to expand...

you mean CR turbo's? I need a new actuator. Mine is rubbish. But people do say the forge one is good. I can't see that when the bush is plastic!
 
Will it still be too harsh for my tiny k04? If so, rather go for a OEM one but can't find one anywhere!
 
Which bit is the bush in these things? Not seen a forge one, so assume the plastic bit melt?
 
the outlet bush where the rod goes thru is blue nylon type material.... and can melt.. We all know how hot k04s run.. and this bush sits in direct line of fire..
i have melted these before, which seizes the rod up completely.. They have supplied phosphor bronze equivalents before when required. thats the ones I would opt for personally.
 
Oh I read that it can make your car produce boost spikes because of the spring Etc. must of read wrong. Ok I'll order one with a metal bush and yellow spring? Can you get these bill? If so ill add it to my shopping list after Xmas after brakes and intercooler welding lol.
 
Gops said:
Oh I read that it can make your car produce boost spikes because of the spring Etc. must of read wrong. Ok I'll order one with a metal bush and yellow spring? Can you get these bill? If so ill add it to my shopping list after Xmas after brakes and intercooler welding lol.
Click to expand...

depends on the spring and mapping whether it will spike..
If you stick a stiffer than oe spring in it and dont chnage map then yea I would expect it to spike boost, but thats not because of the forge actuator per say, but because the actuator is set at a higher pressure..

I can get them yes.. It should be fitted and mapped to suit.. Important if going for stiffer spring rate *(which would be the only reason to change this anyhows)
 
Your a G, Badger B! (My legendary rapping!) I'm gonna fit it when I do a stage 2 so the map can accommodate for the new actuator. What spring would you say is good for stage 2? And before you ask about my tfsi build, I've had to push it back for a few reasons and I didn't want to live without abit more power so this is my compromise lol. It will be done though..
 
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