A couple of those bits tie into other parts and there's a lot you can do, so I'll break it all down for you as a server is down at work so I've got some time to pass
I've highlighted your specific points.
It all depends on what your budget is and your (current) goal, but going stage 2+ is the best bang for buck overall with your S3 and will see you get around 370-380bhp & 390-400lbs.
Mandatory
Stage 1
No other parts are required at this stage, you can go for a generic map of which APR currently offer the best product. However, custom mapping is becoming more popular due to it being specific to your car and is definitely the way to go, especially if you're within a couple of hours of a reputable tuner such as R-Tech (Hinckley) or Unicorn (Stockport) who both have countless positive reviews on here.
Stage 1+
- Remap
- High Pressure Fuel Pump
This is a new stage introduced and tends to see higher figures then stage 2, this is because of the fueling upgrade which is what the + refers to.
You can go for either the Autotech HPFP internals or LOBA HPFP pump. Autotech is the cheaper option as it is just internals integrated with the original pump but you need to make sure it is put together by someone competent and in a clean environment, it's worth replacing replacing older seals on the original pump as well. LOBA is a complete pump replacement so no concern about old seals or environment, however you do pay a fair bit more for the privilege, they both perform identically.
Stage 2
- Remap
- Cold Air Intake
- Turbo Back Exhaust
The Revo or ITG Maxogen CAI's are the two best kits available. Revo do two versions, powder coat or for another £100 ceramic coating, you can buy heat wrap for the powder coat version if don't want to spend the extra £100. You can get the VWR enclosed induction kit so there's less noise but this is only good up to stage 2.
The downpipe is the most restrictive part of the standard S3 exhaust system with the back box not being too much of a hindrance. If funds are tight then only a downpipe with a sports cat or de-cat (latter will fail MOT) is needed for stage 2 & stage 2+. BCS is the best manufacturer by a clean mile, everyone will tell you this so don't waste your money on a Miltek, speak to
@BCS Nige for more information but their Powervalve system is the best one on the market.
Stage 2+
- Remap
- Cold Air Intake
- Turbo Back Exhaust
- High Pressure Fuel Pump
- RS4 Fuel Pressure Return Valve
- GFB DV+
- Clutch & Flywheel (manual)
This stage is all of the stage 1+ and stage 2 hardware together along with the 2+ remap.
Some will argue that the RS4 FPRV isn't mandatory but it has been proven to help eliminate a flat spot around 5K on aggressive maps by maintaining 130bar throughout instead of reaching 130bar, then dropping to 128bar and climbing back up to 130bar again like the standard valve does, R-Tech also recommend getting it done and for the sake of £50 then there really is no reason not to.
You've got a 60 plate S3 and so it would've come with the Rev D DV. Whilst this is the latest OEM version and the piston design means it is a lot less likely to eventually break when running more power, it also holds the least amount of boost. Even though the older Rev G DV diaphragm design is prone to splitting after 10/20K miles at stage 2+, it holds boost better then then Rev D and so for the sake of £40 every couple of years it is worth getting over the Rev D. Saying that the newer 2013 revision of the GFB DV+ at £98 wins here as it uses the OEM housing (either Rev G or D) but replaces all of the weak materials with metal parts and it holds more boost for longer.
The manual S3 is a DMF setup of which slip is inevitable, how long it lasts depends on how the clutch has been previously treated and mileage. Sachs/Helix clutch & LUK DMF is a popular replacement to deal with the increased torque however there has been several cases on aggressive maps where these are failing, plus they're organic clutches so can't deal with launches. Hence why I've bought a Spec 2+ clutch & steel SMF myself as they're bulletproof, if stage 3 was on the cards for me then I'd have gone for the Spec 3+ version. I see you've got a DSG so no worry for you here, plus a lot of money saved too on not needing to uprate this part!
Above are the minimal requirements in order to get to a certain stage but they're all performance based modifications, whilst the rest of the internals on the S3 can safely withstand up to 440lbs, you ideally don't want to be driving around a stage 2+ S3 with stock suspension/handling and brakes as it could easily get ugly. Therefore you should seriously consider the following as well.
Worth Doing
- Big Brake Kit
- Anti Roll Bars (Front & Rear)
- Anti Lift Kit
- Coilovers
- DSG Map
Brakes are important as those corners and vehicles are going to be coming up a hell of a lot quicker and you'll want to be able to brake safely. A BBK is crucial for track use as well otherwise the standard discs will warp etc. There are a few options you can go for like the TTRS conversion/Yellow Speed/AP so do more research to see what suits you. If you can't afford a BBK just yet then uprated pads on the front should be a bare minimum, I'll be doing this myself in the meantime and will be using Mintex M1155 pads.
Suspension/Handling is also crucial, I'm still on the standard setup at stage 2 which copes ok but I can see that I'm nearing the limit now, even with the fantastic quattro system, so can understand that stage 2+ would be pushing this a little too much. ARB's reduce the body roll of which the H&R kit is reliable, people say the best setup is to have front soft and rear hard. ALK reduces the lift and while the Powerflex & Whiteline kits are good, a comparison was done to the SuperPro kit and found the latter uses a superior material for the joints and so it's worth getting the SuperPro.
Coilovers offer maximum customisation options so it depends on your preferences in regards to stance/performance/comfort ratio but generally speaking you'll want to lower it to some extent to hunker it down to improve handling and maintain a higher speed round corners. Good kits are KW V2 or V3/H&R Monotube/Bilstein B14/Eibach Pro Street S so it's worth doing more research to see which you like best. Again if you can't afford a decent set right away then getting some H&R 25mm lowering springs front & back will do the job which is what I'll be doing for now.
Tuners also offer DSG maps which will vastly improve performance with launch control/different drive modes etc.
Maintenence
- Cam Follower
- Shell V-Power Nitro+ / Tesco Momentum 99
- Millers Nanodrive CFS / Motul 300V Oil
- Decoke (relates to Forge PCV Plate/ IE Kit)
- Cam Chain & Tensioner
- Oil Pickup Pipe
- Tyres
- Four Wheel Alignment
The Cam Follower should be treated as a service item so make sure you get it checked annually at every service, or every 5,000 miles when at stage 2+ as you don't want this part failing. It's cheap and easy to replace so not a concern if looked after properly as stated.
Shell and Tesco are the only two major petrol suppliers in the UK whose premium petrol has a 99ron octane rating, BP and Esso premiums fuels only offer 97ron.
Once modified, especially stage 2+, then it's worth running a 5W40 fully synthetic oil of which Millers Nanodrive CFS and Motul 300V are popular choices on here.
Due to the TFSI engine being direct injection then carbon deposits build up on the inlet valves overtime which will eventually affect performance, the higher the car is tuned the quicker this will build up so it's worth doing every 40K or so. The Forge PCV Plate kit delete's the front breather pipe but there's still the one going in the rear so whilst this slows the process, it doesn't eliminate the problem. The long term solution is the IE kit as that removes all breathers however that costs several hundred pounds, but you would break even after 3 decokes so up to you. Another benefit of both of these options is that they removes the PCV valve which can fail causing erratic idling.
The Cam Chain & Tensioner as well as the Oil Pickup Pipe should all be done as a precautionary measure on S3's over 50K, we've lost quite a few S3 engines in the last couple of years purely down to these two items. Using the oil mentioned and regular oil checks/changes will help prevent the oil pickup pipe failing going forward. Cam chain & tensioner seems to be luck of the draw as some are over 100K on the original with no problems whilst others have gone way before that.
It goes without saying don't skimp out on tyres, I as well as many others have found that the Michelin PS4 tyre's are a great all rounder, I have yet to fault them after a solid year of chucking everything I can at them.
Four Wheel Alignment shouldn't be overlooked, it's especially worth doing after fitting new alloys or suspension changes, try going to a reliable indy over the likes of kwick fit who rush it like there's no tomorrow.
Optional
- Intercooler
- Runner Flap Delete
- Turbo Muffler Delete
- Silicone Throttle Body Hose
- Short Shifter
Whilst a bigger Intercooler isn't required until stage 3, it helps keep temperatures down, especially on long runs or track days. Pro Alloy and Wagner are the best.
Again the RFD isn't essential until stage 3, but can help at stage 2+ however custom tuning is required otherwise cold start-ups won't be too pleasant. There's multiple kits out there but they all do the exact same thing so might as well use the cheaper MTC kit available.
The Forge TMD helps improve throttle response by reducing the turbulence caused by the OEM part which allows air to escape. The reasoning for this was basically so there's less turbo noise in the cabin, stupid I know..
The Forge short shifter is beneficial to improve shift times but you've got DSG which outclasses that.
In regards to the rear wiper delete kit, the best and cheapest kit available is produced by gecleant, google it they're a German complany.
Most of what I've mentioned can be found on either the awesomegti or demon-tweeks websites, it's also worth checking the Classifieds 8P section on here to see what people are selling to save some money. Search on Google or on here to find the rest.
Hope I've helped!
