Stacey's Belated Yo Yo Build Thread

Would love to be able to confidently TIG especially ally, have tig welded in the past during my apprenticeship but due to not needing to and lazyness I'd be very rusty and hoe through a lot of tungsten tips lol

Did contemplate getting some stainless wire but will require getting another bottle of gas (££££) so if DP needs modding ill tack with normal steel wire and get a mate to do it on a tig set

Car in its new resting spot till further notice ;)



 
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TIG is surprisingly easy, a lot of it just comes down to tonnes of practice, all I do in work is pipe welding with tig, the pipe could be 25mm Wall thickness or 1mm, still use tig for all of it, all nuclear stuff so got to be nice and clean
 
Lavis89 said:
TIG is surprisingly easy, a lot of it just comes down to tonnes of practice, all I do in work is pipe welding with tig, the pipe could be 25mm Wall thickness or 1mm, still use tig for all of it, all nuclear stuff so got to be nice and clean
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Tig is without a doubt the nicer form of welding, it's definately all about hours practice playing with settings on the set but have to say I would also be very rusty with MMA and would be constantly getting the rod stuck to the work lol

May have to buy a set one day and play a bit
 
badger5 said:
she's allowing you to touch your car again?
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Westy said:
Well it's not like she's going to let him touch her again ;)
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Haha.....I'm fixing things that need to be done like the gearbox as well as sorting a couple of other bits....if some parts like turbos, cams etc happen to mysteriously change then so be it ;)
 
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Did a compression test with a slightly flat battery and it came out lower than I thought it would but at least was fairly consistent

Pics in order cylinder 1-4









Spark plugs in order 1-4, number one has quite a bit more of carbon deposited on it





Sump plug had a bit of a build up on it



Here is the state of play as was packing up due to darkness setting in



Can anyone reconmend some plasti gauge to go for?
 
Could be your cams... have seen this before on wildish cams... artificially lowers comp ratio... can't remember what spec yours are..

<tuffty/>
 
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Could be your cams... have seen this before on wildish cams... artificially lowers comp ratio... can't remember what spec yours are..

<tuffty/>
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True totally didn't think of that, cams are suspect for a lot of issues on this build, suppose if opening or closing to early or late would cause it

Cams are currently catcams 3660 aka bobq purple grind, will be replaced with IECVA1's :)
 
Plastigauge....

Does anyone know off the top of their head roughly what the clearance is that am looking for on the bearings? (Will check ELSA later if not)

This one does from 1-7 thou or 0.025-0.175mm in new talk lol

http://bit.ly/IsqFRG
 
StaceyS3 said:
Did a compression test with a slightly flat battery and it came out lower than I thought it would but at least was fairly consistent

Pics in order cylinder 1-4







Click to expand...


I tested my compression on a hot engine after about 1000km at all cylinders were around 160psi, I was pretty bummed.
I recently did another test on a cold engine at the compression is around 190psi across all cylinders - happy days :)
 
Scullies said:
I tested my compression on a hot engine after about 1000km at all cylinders were around 160psi, I was pretty bummed.
I recently did another test on a cold engine at the compression is around 190psi across all cylinders - happy days :)
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Cheers for the info and link mate ;)
Stupidly I plastigauged the last engine as was a used crank but as everything was new in this I never bothered....fail lol

Mine was as cold as can be when tested, had sat for 4 months without turning lol
 
Got a little more done this afternoon

Finished pulling the loom out and draining fluids, although was quite shocked and dissapointed at the state of the hard pipe and block



Pretty much all that's left is the DP but I want to pull it with as much of it attached as possible as will weld some support brackets to it as if need to cut the flange off to reposition I know exactly the position of the dp for adjustments ;)

Not much left with the subframe either as got another subframe and 2 driveshafts to go in, will also have to replace a track rod end as the nut picked up causing me to have to cut it off with the angle grinder



State how I left it at the end of the day



Can anyone reconmend tape to use on the loom as the insulation tape I used last time has just come off

Cheers
 
Cheers guys it's always worth an ask as so many **** products out there

It has already been heat shrunk on some individual cores where has been spliced and may be able to get some 3-1 ratio heat shrink over some of the plugs but will have to go with tape for the rest ;)
 
that hard pipe is nicked off another engine, as yours was perforated from corrosion...

did you paint that block? let me know what paint so I know what to avoid - lol
 
I've been looking at those track rods as well stacey, I emailed the seller to see what make they are and they replied with a company from doncaster that I've never heard of before.
 
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Cheers for the responses guys

May just buy one decent track rod end to replace the knackered one then

Just saw the set on eBay and thought about replacing the lot as they're all still the originals afaik

Will name and shame the paint lol

But iiirc you painted the pipe? Is g12 very corrosive as had a lovely coolant leak during its short life back on the road
 
I got Meyle ones from ECS. Lemforder would be nice but mega money compared and my Meyle ones seem ok so far.
 
Car is more likely to be driven hard, and at higher speeds, so wear and tear is likely to be accelerated on this car, compared to an estate agents wife who uses her S3 to go shopping.

Cheap product might last 5 years on miss daisys car and seem perfectly suitable, with Stace at the helm and regular abuse it might only last 6 months, so less acceptable :)

simples :racer:
 
I was under the impression that we were talking about the ends, but the track rods themselves also have a ball and socket joint at the end, which will take just as much load as the track rod end I'd think.

I know I'd certainly want only the highest quality joints at either end. OE track rods are SO expensive though!
 
Can definately see the sense I'm buying a higher quality item with how hard will be pushed (although limited millage) but wasn't sure if "cheaper" brand ball joints were that poorer product?

I only need to replace one end where had to cut it off after the nut picked up, but wondered if the set was a reasonable product would it be worth replacing the lot

Been working on the mrs a bit more on the buckets and rollcage, I keep pointing out that it's the most sensible mod ever wanted to do as safety related
but digging her heals in on this one is an understatement lol

Maybe next winter will get fully stripped :(
 
Not at all but will wait till it's actually mine in my possession.....then it's truly mine ;)

Really shouldn't spend money when rather intoxicated lol
 
StaceyS3 said:
Not at all but will wait till it's actually mine in my possession.....then it's truly mine ;)

Really shouldn't spend money when rather intoxicated lol
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On the contrary Stace, sometimes the best things are bought after some drinks. Look at Prawn, he bought his CAE shifter while drunk and now he loves it haha.

Looking forward to updates chap.
 
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