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    Guide for Wiring an Ignition Source - (Aftermarket Stereo Fitting) New Addition

    Re: here you go
    This is a brief guide for wiring in an ignition source for an aftermarket stereo. If you're changing your stereo then you'll need to do this in order for the stereo to turn on and off when you take the keys in and out of the ignition barrel. Most Audi’s don’t have an ignition cable due to the CANBUS system.

    To wire your own ignition source you will need the following:
    • Wire strippers
    • Crimps
    • 1x 10amp Fuse (can also be a mini fuse)
    • 10-25amp cable (preferably red, ~1metre)
    • Insulation tape
    • Cable ties
    • 1x Dual fuse holder (Autoleads BSFDUAL) I can supply these. Please PM Me
    • 1x Male 15amp bullet connector
    • 1x Female 5amp bullet connector (optional)
    • 1x Male 5amp bullet connector (optional)
    • 4x European radio removal keys (stereo dependant, you may need 2)
    ****DO NOT CONTINUE WITHOUT TAKING KEYS OUT FIRST****

    We don't want any power running through the car during the install until testing at the end.






    Step 1 – Connecting the Dual Fuse Holder to your Fusebox

    Take off your fuse panel, its located inbetween the drivers door and the dash. Use a suitable tool to remove it.




    There are only a few locations that turn on and off with the ignition on the fusebox, this may vary depending on what car you have, my car is a 2.0 TDI PD170. Fuse location 41 - Rear wiper, is the one I've used.



    Remove the existing fuse (if there is one) and place it in the first fuse slot as shown in the picture. The second location will be for the 10amp fuse but we’ll be connecting that later.






    Place the fuse holder back into the fuse box as shown in the picture, you can do it either way the cover should still go back over.






    Step 2 – Removing your stereo
    Use your four keys in each slot; it’s easier when you’ve got two people doing this, one person to do the left, the other do the right. Pull the stereo out evenly on both sides until its out, don’t pull it all the way out you need to disconnect the Quadlock/ISO blocks and aerials.


    For Quadlock, squeeze the two bottom sections together and you’ll feel it release, lift the tab and it’ll pull itself out halfway then remove it once the tab is at 90 degrees to the rest of the block.



    For FAKRA aerials, push the tabs in (you’ll feel/hear a small click) and pull those off, be careful with these they can break easily.



    For ISO blocks depress the tabs on the side of each block and pull the blocks out.
    For ISO aerials just pull it off.







    Step 3 – Running your ignition cable through

    Take your length of wiring cable, strip one end and crimp your male 15amp bullet to it. This end of the cable will connect to the cable coming out of the dual fuse holder.





    At this point you need to remove the tray that sits underneath the dash (above the pedals), its 3x T20 Torx screws to remove it (if I remember correctly) and it’ll just slot out.

    With the tray removed, pass your cable through around the fusebox (whichever way you can find) and into the footwell. Run the cable along towards the centre console, be sure not to pull it all the way through, leave enough slack on the fusebox side of the cable. At this point your stereo should also be removed and out the way



    There is bags of space behind here, you should be able to put one hand in the space for the stereo and reach down the back of that while passing the cable up through the footwell, once you’ve got it on the stereo side then pull it through. If you struggle get a friend to help, or attach the cable to something more solid to help pass it through (stretch out coat hanger, cable tie etc)



    Again, be sure not to pull it all the way through, but also do not pull it too tight as there is a load of other wiring in the drivers footwell and behind the stereo that you don’t want to damage.

    Use some cable ties to secure the cable so it doesn’t interfere with the pedals. Once the trays back up it can’t come out easily but just to be safe secure it anyway.

    Once it’s secure, replace the undertray.




    Step 4 – Connecting the ignition cable to your loom
    At this point you should have your harness and aerial adaptors connected to your original loom, fascia adaptor in, stereo cage in, and all the wires coming through the centre of the cage.

    Most stereo looms will have use 5amp bullet connectors for the ignition cable, which is the red wiring on the loom. Split this if it’s not split already (by this I mean take the male part out of the female part). Then take the stereo side of the wiring and see whether it has a male or female end.

    At this point if you want to you can cut down the wire so u don’t have a load of it sitting behind the stereo, don’t cut it too short though.

    Once you’ve established what is on the loom you need to use either your male/female 5amp bullet connector to connect to your new ignition wire. Strip the wire end, crimp your connector, and connect it to the stereo loom.

    Now go back to your wire on the fusebox side, connect the bullet connectors together and place your 10amp fuse into the spare location on the dual fuse holder.







    Step 5 – Testing
    Right, now that all done, take all the wiring (there should be a fair amount of it now) and tuck it all to the left hand side at the back, there a fair amount of space in here and you should be able to get it all in. Get your stereo connected and in place, but not fully clipped in place yet. Keys in, ignition on (you don’t have to have the engine running). Your stereo should now be powered up.

    Here’s the test, find a radio station and save it as a preset. Take the key out, wait a few seconds, key back in, ignition back on. The stereo should pick up where it left off, so back to the radio station you just saved. If this is the case then you’re all set. If not then take the keys out again and swap the ignition (red) and battery (yellow) cables around. It should be red to yellow and yellow to red. Test again, if this still doesn’t work you’ve probably got another issue so check over your new ignition cable first if you can’t see anything wrong then PM me.

    However most VAG systems are Red to Red/Yellow to Yellow. The only time I’ve ever had to swap this around is on Bluetooth hands free kits and DAB kits that work with factory head unit.



    So now you should be done, tidy everything up, fuse cover back on, undertray back on if you haven’t done so already. Make sure there are no wires loose anywhere. Insulate the areas where you’ve crimped the cable with insulation tape just to be safe and to help them stay together. Finally put your stereo into place properly.

    This is what I was installing: Parrot MKi9200


    This wiring guide should work for any Audi that doesn't have an ignition source as standard, mainly any Audi running CANBUS systems.



    Please note; I will not be held responsible for any damages occurred during the process of following this guide or installing anything yourself. If anything bad happens, it’s on you!



    I'd also advise not using fuse locations for important electrical components such as ESP, ABS, Airbags, ECU etc. Don’t be a retard.

    If you have any questions feel free to PM me, I'll be more than happy to help.



























    Last edited by Sandra; 29th November 2012 at 13:57. Reason: updating

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  3. #2
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    some good work Sidu
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    Nice write up...

    Although I have to say that these crimps are definitely not up to my personal acceptance standards:



    -the exposed copper is definitely a 'do-again' in my book. -You always take the 'shoulder' of the insulation up to the very metal of the crimp connection, and NEVER leave any exposed copper strands visible. They will corrode over time, and if flexed can break.

    Glue-lined heat shrink (to form a seal) or do-over.

    Other than that, great write-up. -I now see how the RHD fuse layout is compared to the LHD also.

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    The double wiring meant i couldn't push it any further. I know they're not the best but it was just as an example. I'd insulate the ends if i was to use this. As for it breaking, it wouldn't move much where its positioned so i wouldn't worry too much in that respect
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    Wow thanks Sidhu, Il be doing this in the next couple of weeks so will definitely be asking some questions then! Thanks again!
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    Very good write up, although i can confirm this method is not needed when installing a Pioneer headunit into an A3
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    Quote Originally Posted by itwasntme187 View Post
    Very good write up, although i can confirm this method is not needed when installing a Pioneer headunit into an A3
    WOOHOO!! Get in
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    Good write up. To add, Fuse Locations 1-9 on the A3 are all ignition-feeds.

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    Ash and his pioneer headunit
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    Quote Originally Posted by itwasntme187 View Post
    Very good write up, although i can confirm this method is not needed when installing a Pioneer headunit into an A3
    how so? How have u wired urs?

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    Quote Originally Posted by itwasntme187 View Post
    Very good write up, although i can confirm this method is not needed when installing a Pioneer headunit into an A3
    Well it was for mine Ash, I had no ignition source from the original quadlock to the aftermarket iso lead, I have just done this but tapped into a different ignition source.....

    I have used the ESP on/off button connection, tapped into that using proper splicing connections, the HU is now working great, many thanks to both of you for all your help and advice!!!

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    Well for mine and the 5 other installs I have done I haven't needed to do that? These were a mix of Audi a3s that have either the older ISO connections or the quad lock.
    I made sure I got the right adapter kit and have wired them up properly and not have a single issue with them. The systems behave exactly the same way oem ones do where the stereo stays on until you take the keys out of the ignition.
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    Quote Originally Posted by itwasntme187 View Post
    Well for mine and the 5 other installs I have done I haven't needed to do that? These were a mix of Audi a3s that have either the older ISO connections or the quad lock.
    I made sure I got the right adapter kit and have wired them up properly and not have a single issue with them. The systems behave exactly the same way oem ones do where the stereo stays on until you take the keys out of the ignition.
    For most of the audis i've done lately its been the same issue. I use autoleads adaptors more than any others though so maybe its down to the brand of the adaptors used, The connects2 one i used didnt need an ignition source wired seperately. All the rest i can recall were autoleads and did. Also with the ISO and Quad variances, as well as rear amp'd, bose rear amp'd and full bose theres alot of leads to choose from which could also make the difference.

  15. #14
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    right thats probably what it is then! as these are the kits that i use and have not had a single problem

    for the older ISO connectors:Audi A3 (2004-2006) Double Din Car CD Stereo Fitting Kit Fascia, Stalk Control | eBay

    and the quadlock connectors: Audi A3 (2006-2009) Double Din Car CD Stereo Fitting Kit Fascia, Stalk Control | eBay
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    Right I have now ran into another issue!!

    As soon as I turn the side or head lights on I get a loud humming noise, this was not there before I fitted the stereo!

    I have an inclin what it may be.... There was a 3.5mm stereo jack coming off the MFSW interface on the harness, as I don't have MFSW I just left that loose at the rear of the unit, should I have plugged that in somewhere or indeed removed it?

    That could be picking up noise/interference from the wiring at the rear?!

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    Quote Originally Posted by itwasntme187 View Post
    right thats probably what it is then! as these are the kits that i use and have not had a single problem

    for the older ISO connectors:Audi A3 (2004-2006) Double Din Car CD Stereo Fitting Kit Fascia, Stalk Control | eBay

    and the quadlock connectors: Audi A3 (2006-2009) Double Din Car CD Stereo Fitting Kit Fascia, Stalk Control | eBay
    Dynamic sounds are down the road from me, funnily enough the A3 i did where i used the connects2 lead was from them. So it seems that as well as having the stalk adaptor built in its also got an ignition source adaptor too. So put simply, these are the leads to buy!

    The only reason i used the autoleads more often was because they're the ones stocked rather than the connects2 leads which have to be ordered in where i work.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simmo_Sportback_S_Line View Post
    Right I have now ran into another issue!!

    As soon as I turn the side or head lights on I get a loud humming noise, this was not there before I fitted the stereo!

    I have an inclin what it may be.... There was a 3.5mm stereo jack coming off the MFSW interface on the harness, as I don't have MFSW I just left that loose at the rear of the unit, should I have plugged that in somewhere or indeed removed it?

    That could be picking up noise/interference from the wiring at the rear?!
    PM'd you, maybe someone else can confirm. I reckon its down to the ESP switch lighting up once the headlights turn on. This would be creating the noise.

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    I'm at my wits end with this now!

    So when I turn the lights on I get a buzzing sound and when I drive it's like the sound of the engine is coming through the speakers?!

    Should have just gone for the RNSE after all lol

    Oh and as there is no accessory position as soon as I turn the engine off the unit goes off, had enough!!!!!!!!!!!

  20. #19
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    you have not got the wiring done properly mate, its got nothing to do with the fact its aftermarket. i have done multiple installs on the a3 with no issues whatsoever.
    maybe you should wire it up properly without the ESP and connect all the wires properly or take it to someone who can do it properly for you?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ash187 View Post
    you have not got the wiring done properly mate, its got nothing to do with the fact its aftermarket. i have done multiple installs on the a3 with no issues whatsoever.
    maybe you should wire it up properly without the ESP and connect all the wires properly or take it to someone who can do it properly for you?
    Mate I have used a multimeter on the or quad lock, there is only a permanent feed, no ignition source, I used the connects 2 harness and connected all the blue wires as you directed. It seems like I have to turn the volume up really high compared to the standard head unit too?!

    If I drove up your way would you be able to sort it for me?

  22. #21
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    i cant see why not mate, not had this kind of issue before. will be a challenge either way
    A3 Sportback 2.0TDI
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    MODS:
    S3 facelift,
    RS3 Grill, 19" RS6, TTRS FBMFSW, A5 S-Line Heated Seats, Bi-Xenons, Auto Lights & Wipers, Eibach Sportlines, Auto Folding & Dimming Dumbo Mirrors, S3 brakes, US Centre Console, Cruise, Pioneer HU, Reverse Camera, OEM Parking Sensors, LED Tail Lights, S3 Pedals, Tints, Carbon Trims.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simmo_Sportback_S_Line View Post
    Mate I have used a multimeter on the or quad lock, there is only a permanent feed, no ignition source, I used the connects 2 harness and connected all the blue wires as you directed. It seems like I have to turn the volume up really high compared to the standard head unit too?!

    If I drove up your way would you be able to sort it for me?
    Wana take a pic of everything connected up?

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    Forget the connector you're talking about...

    Google "Alternator Whine".

    The lights noise. -Does it change with changing the dash illumination dimmer setting? (I'm expecting that it does, at least slightly).

    I'd expect also that you an hear slight 'clicks' when you press the brakes with the ignition on, but the engine NOT running?

    This is just the sign of a bad installation. You've most likely got grounds coming from the wrong place(s) or simply too many asymmetric ground return current paths. -It happens.

    I know you mentioned that you couldn't get the wire ALL the way into the crimp connector because it was a 'double-connection', but also your 'single-connection' looks poorly done. -While this particular connection WON'T be the cause of this problem, if you've done this elsewhere with an exposed GROUND (0 Volts) connection, and it touches the chassis where it shouldn't, then this can certainly happen.

    Grounds should return DIRECTLY to a CONFIRMED Low-Z path to the battery negative terminal, if you've picked up any "this'll do" grounds, -again- alternator whine and general susceptibility to switching noise (like instrument panel dimming, and brake light switching) is a likely result.

    Let us know what you find, but I'm tempted to suspect the installation, not the equipment. My motto is "Tidy work is reliable work", and having seen a couple of things I'd already have re-done, I'm inclined to suggest that you check out the rest of the installation and re-do anything that isn't up to standard.

    incidentally, there's a MUCH easier way of doing this, by simply using a SINGLE crimp connection from an unused switched fuse, and using a single inline fuseholder for the accessory that you're tapping-in, rather than 'de-mounting' a blade fuseholder.

    Here's how I switch-fed my Valentine 1 (LHD dashboard variant):


    the fuseholder (and the Valentine power distribution block etc) are tucked away in the gap to the left, but all it takes is the one crimp connector. -In this instance the ground (since this needs only a small fraction of an amp) is returned via the ring-crimp to the bolt hole in the upper right... under NO circumstances be tempted to use this for a radio install. -Too high-Z a return path, so at risk for noise.

    Notice though that there's ZERO exposed copper where the insulation 'shoulder' goes into the crimp connector.

    Hope that helps.

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    I have now removed the unit for now as it is driving me insane!

    Here is some photos of how everything was connected up.....

    Firstly I have discovered that on the back of the quadlock a wire has been cut by the previous owner, now I am assuming that he had a hands free kit fitted and that this is the reason I am getting no ignition source? It is the yellow wire that is sticking up




    Here I have connected the front RCA from the pioneer leads to the front RCA from the Connects2 harness

    And the same with the rears.....



    Yellow 12V sources on Pioneer leads connected



    RED accessory position leads on Pioneer unit connected


    The BLUE from the Antenna adapter, the BLUE from the Pioneer harness and the BLUE from the Connects2 harness joined together

    The PURPLE andd WHITE from the Pioneer harness connected to the PURPLE and WHITE from the Connects2 steering wheel adaptor
    Last edited by Simmo_Sportback_S_Line; 29th June 2012 at 14:59.

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    that green one that is bunched up needs to go to a ground or handbrake switch (i pesonally just ground it)

    that yellow wire from the back of the quadlock does look like a cause for concern

    the blue wire coming out of the box in this pic should be connected to the aerial amp wire from the fakra adapter and also connect to the blue wire from the back of the headunit (i can see you have a blue wire connected but im not entirely sure what else it connects to.

    A3 Sportback 2.0TDI
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    MODS:
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    RS3 Grill, 19" RS6, TTRS FBMFSW, A5 S-Line Heated Seats, Bi-Xenons, Auto Lights & Wipers, Eibach Sportlines, Auto Folding & Dimming Dumbo Mirrors, S3 brakes, US Centre Console, Cruise, Pioneer HU, Reverse Camera, OEM Parking Sensors, LED Tail Lights, S3 Pedals, Tints, Carbon Trims.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ash187 View Post
    that green one that is bunched up needs to go to a ground or handbrake switch (i pesonally just ground it)

    that yellow wire from the back of the quadlock does look like a cause for concern

    the blue wire coming out of the box in this pic should be connected to the aerial amp wire from the fakra adapter and also connect to the blue wire from the back of the headunit (i can see you have a blue wire connected but im not entirely sure what else it connects to.

    The BLUE from that box goes to the quadlock, the thicker BLUE coming out of the quadlock is the one I have connected to antenna adaptor and the blue from the head unit which has a label on saying antenna control?

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    Looks to me like the green wire is just crimp-spliced onto the black wire (zero volts/ground) using that red 'vampire-tap'.

    As I mentined earlier, I *never* use these... they're not reliable enough.

    However, looks like you've got a whole rat's nest of wiring there, and there are MULTIPLE ground paths... the RCAs being one, the antenna ground being another and the green wire (tapped onto the black) being another.

    Did you try the dash illumination dimmer test like I asked? -If so, do you hear the whining noise change as you do it?

    Multiple ground paths can set up a large 'loop area' which becomes a detection for differential ground currents. -If you notice the 'dash dimmer effect' then that will confirm that's what he problem is, and I can tell you how to fix it.

    The yellow wire might be a red herring for now... don't get too hung up on it until we've made some measurements and observations... I'm an audio equipment installer with over 30 years experience installing multi-million dollar setups (not car audio, of course!), and if I've learned ANYTHING, it's that you wast time, money and energy by trying to 'fix' a problem that you haven't identified first... -FIND OUT WHAT THE CAUSE IS before you start making guesses as to how to fix it. -It's quicker and cheaper... and I usually find I also learn something cool along the way!

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    Quote Originally Posted by VWAddict View Post
    Looks to me like the green wire is just crimp-spliced onto the black wire (zero volts/ground) using that red 'vampire-tap'.

    As I mentined earlier, I *never* use these... they're not reliable enough.

    However, looks like you've got a whole rat's nest of wiring there, and there are MULTIPLE ground paths... the RCAs being one, the antenna ground being another and the green wire (tapped onto the black) being another.

    Did you try the dash illumination dimmer test like I asked? -If so, do you hear the whining noise change as you do it?

    Multiple ground paths can set up a large 'loop area' which becomes a detection for differential ground currents. -If you notice the 'dash dimmer effect' then that will confirm that's what he problem is, and I can tell you how to fix it.

    The yellow wire might be a red herring for now... don't get too hung up on it until we've made some measurements and observations... I'm an audio equipment installer with over 30 years experience installing multi-million dollar setups (not car audio, of course!), and if I've learned ANYTHING, it's that you wast time, money and energy by trying to 'fix' a problem that you haven't identified first... -FIND OUT WHAT THE CAUSE IS before you start making guesses as to how to fix it. -It's quicker and cheaper... and I usually find I also learn something cool along the way!
    I tried doing the test you mentioned but I got nothing, no change in noise at all?

  30. #29
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    Ash is it easy to ground the head unit not to the handbrake? Took a look on your blog but couldnt find the answer. Installing tonight whoop whoop!
    Brilliant Black 61 Plate A3 1.6 TDI

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  31. #30
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    yh i just use a grounding bolt behind the glovebox on the top left side near the A pillar. perfectly safe and works fine.
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    Awesome! Will let you know how I get on, managed to get my hands on the AppRadio 2 for an alright price
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zak0123 View Post
    Awesome! Will let you know how I get on, managed to get my hands on the AppRadio 2 for an alright price
    Let me know your thoughts on it as I am considering that as my next unit, it seems to have very mixed reviews, sounds like an excellent idea but it really is in it's infancy and may be a way off perfect as of yet.

  34. #33
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    its a good unit with good features like parrot bluetooth and apps from either android or iphone... but i cant trust a system without a cd slot. the 8400bt all the way!
    A3 Sportback 2.0TDI
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    The AVIC F900BT is a great unit, I paid £687 for it 3 years ago and I have just updated to software to 4.0 as well as putting the latest tomtom mapping on there, add that to the iPhone connectivity and Bluetooth and it just can't be beaten for value, to get all that as OE you would be looking at 1.5k

    Just wish I could get it fitted properly lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by Simmo_Sportback_S_Line View Post
    I have now removed the unit for now as it is driving me insane!

    Here is some photos of how everything was connected up.....

    Firstly I have discovered that on the back of the quadlock a wire has been cut by the previous owner, now I am assuming that he had a hands free kit fitted and that this is the reason I am getting no ignition source? It is the yellow wire that is sticking up
    Here I have connected the front RCA from the pioneer leads to the front RCA from the Connects2 harness

    And the same with the rears.....

    Yellow 12V sources on Pioneer leads connected

    RED accessory position leads on Pioneer unit connected

    The BLUE from the Antenna adapter, the BLUE from the Pioneer harness and the BLUE from the Connects2 harness joined together

    The PURPLE andd WHITE from the Pioneer harness connected to the PURPLE and WHITE from the Connects2 steering wheel adaptor
    I think that thick yellow wire is the permanent 12V supply.

    My understanding is that the CAN BUS system really just provides the "on/off" signal to the built in stereo so the 12V power comes through a permanent 12V connection, that yellow wire. But if you don't use a CAN BUS adapter, using switched 12V instead I think you need to supply the switched 12v to that wire/pin.

    I got rid of my ignition whine using Ground Loop Isolators. I just get GSM 2G phone signal interference now.
    8P2 A3 2.0T FSI S line Special Edition Sportback S tronic 2007MY. Black. Concert II+ & Bose.

  37. #36
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    Thanks for this. Great right up.

    One question, i've installed my new stereo now i've got a poping noise when i turn the stereo off. It sounds like its coming from the rear sub. Anyone got any ideas?

    Thanks
    G.
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    Guide for Wiring an Ignition Source - (Aftermarket Stereo Fitting)

    Quote Originally Posted by iyrix View Post
    Thanks for this. Great right up.

    One question, i've installed my new stereo now i've got a poping noise when i turn the stereo off. It sounds like its coming from the rear sub. Anyone got any ideas?

    Thanks
    G.
    Get someone to flick the car/stereo on and off whilst u hold ur hand over the passenger side panel in the boot. If u feel the vibration when it pops its the amp turning on/off. Although ive only ever noticed this when turning on a sub not off.
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  39. #38
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    yes, the noise is from the rear (sub). Every time you turn it off and on.

    Anyone got any idea how to stop this?

    Thanks
    G
    Audi A4 TDi 130 Sport

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    Guide for Wiring an Ignition Source - (Aftermarket Stereo Fitting)

    Quote Originally Posted by iyrix View Post
    yes, the noise is from the rear (sub). Every time you turn it off and on.

    Anyone got any idea how to stop this?

    Thanks
    G
    U running the factory sub?
    2006 Audi A3 2.0 TDI S-Line 8P2 PD170 - Dolphin Grey Metallic - The problem child
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  41. #40
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    yep, all factory speakers. All run perfectly, it’s just when you start and turn off the car. It’s like there is a mini power surge..
    Audi A4 TDi 130 Sport

 

 
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