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Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by Westy, May 9, 2011.
Fair enough, must be a moderator thing i guess :/
Aye... mine does it too...
No not that lucky im affraid
No problem mate, even though we did some crazy hours time just flew by cos it was just a good laugh.
Just need to get my car sorted, you moving closer and dragging Prawny up and we can hit Bedford now lol
i did say green was gay! lol.
Good plan. I'm hoping to sort out some light 17" wheels next month so I'll be on course for a track day.
I want to try Bedford let me get a new manifold and WMI ssorted and I'm game!
I'm up for Bedford as had to cancel my last one I booked for there
from the pics and fitment it does not look like a v2. the v1s were polished and the v2 is not.
great build top work
The one I had was from Welly. I have a feeling it's a bit of a mixture of the V1 and V2 as it was the first one after welly sorted out all the fitting issues with XS. It's like a V1.5
yeah its definitely not the current manifold. i fitted mine 2 weeks ago and it fitted perfectly, tricky as you expect but no issues. i will have to meet up with you at bills sometime i have just finished running my car in, so will get the meth fitted asap and get a map tweak and hopefully get somewhere near the magic 300 mark. how are you running your car in?
Just picked up the missing nut for my turbo mani flange
Part no may be handy for any one else installing xs mani where 17mm nut wont fit as this is still M10 thread but has 15mm head
You'll should hit 300 easily now won't you Sam? Be suprised if not.
Am running mine in again now with new engine mounts and have a few irksome niggles, like a knocking when i engage the throttle after putting into gear but hey ho...modified cars eh!?
I'd meet up at Bills sometime to see them all together for a run.
Quick question lads. I've removed my charcoal can but I keep getting an engine check light after a while of the "incorrect flow" error being in VCDS for a while. Anyone know how to get round this?
Get it coded out, best way really.
Great work dude!
You can use a 10w 330ohm resistor but it's a bit of a hack.
You've done all this work yourself, now you need to learn about the me7 then you can remove the evap
Removing the evap is your first challenge!
installing a resistor should stop the eml coming on but wont stop a fault code coming up. this will not effect performance. i think IE do a plug in resistor. i will get a link for you.
PostReleased SAI/EVAP Delete Resistor (Oval plug)
Don't use bloody resistors!!! nothing ever runs right when you delete using the bloody things... easier to get it coded out in the map... I have done this on mine...
Can be coded out.... what map is on yours at the minute?
He's running Revo stage 2 - tweaked by Bill
Bugger.... yeah, remember now...
A resistor is only used when you've removed the solenoid anyway, of you've left it in its still working, just not seeing the correct flow. a resistor will dO jack ****
I went to see Stacey tonight and he is running a resistor on his. Sam is correct, you don't get the ECL but you do still get the "incorrect flow" error in VCDS.
What does removing the charcoal can get you?
As far as I can work out, nothing but a tidier engine bay. I've kept the can and all the hoses so I can re fit it if I need too.
EVAP System Operation - YouTube
Last night I dropped the coolant and oil before doing a 70 mile round trip to Stacey's and back:
Coolant (mainly water) after 40 miles:
Oil after 40 miles:
This little fella had made it's way into the sump and got drained with the oil. Slightly worrying!
From doing a few more miles I have noticed a vibration through the DP. I think it's a clearance issue where the DP is hitting the tunnel around the prop. I'll get under the car tonight and see if I can bend some of the heat shield away from the DP.
Is that a cable tie ?
Yep. We're not too sure where it was sitting but we believe it was the tie we used to hold the oil pump chain in place while we were spinning the block around on the engine stand. It was cut but this bit must have shot into the engine somewhere
One other thing to possibly try, you can move the engine side to side on the mounts as its on slots and you may be able to get a little bit on it like that to help clear a heatsheild or whatever it fouls on?
That water looks manky mate.
Is there any oil in it?
did you flush it through after you drained it?
I only put water in it after the build so I wasn't wasting coolant as I wanted to flush it again after a few days. This time around it has flushed some of the old existing coolant out. There would have still been some coolant in the system as it's difficult to completely flush the system as it sits in the matrix and other pipes.
Hose pipe down a pipe and wait till the other pipe springs clean water?
Meh, after having the head off, the water will be manky. Just one of those things. Oil will have down the water galleries when the head came off. Drop that coolant, and refill, if it gets manky again, change again. It will be fine.
Cable tie in the engine is a fail though.... lol
Don't you know there's a hose pipe ban