W3STY's Progress Thread

What colour S3 Avus for the Track?

  • Porsche Guards Red

    Votes: 43 57.3%

  • Kawasaki Green

    Votes: 32 42.7%
  • Total voters
    75
Westy said:
Before I forget, I need to say some thank yous.

This build wouldn't have even been possible without the help I got this weekend from Tam, Pete, and Stacey. These lads know their stuff and were willing to work through to silly o'clock each night with very minimal sleep.

I also need to thank Jason, my parts advisor, for all the bits he's ordered in for me over the last 6 months.

Cheers guys I owe you all big time :beerchug: :applaus: :anbet: :friends:
Click to expand...

No problem mate, even though we did some crazy hours time just flew by cos it was just a good laugh.
 
Just need to get my car sorted, you moving closer and dragging Prawny up and we can hit Bedford now :) lol
 
audi upgrades
Prawn said:
Sam: westy has a v2 manifold!

Good work mate, can't wait to see how it goes when you fire it up!
Click to expand...

from the pics and fitment it does not look like a v2. the v1s were polished and the v2 is not.
 
audi upgrades
yeah its definitely not the current manifold. i fitted mine 2 weeks ago and it fitted perfectly, tricky as you expect but no issues. i will have to meet up with you at bills sometime :) i have just finished running my car in, so will get the meth fitted asap and get a map tweak and hopefully get somewhere near the magic 300 mark. how are you running your car in?
 
Just picked up the missing nut for my turbo mani flange ;)

fd34bdbc.jpg


Part no may be handy for any one else installing xs mani where 17mm nut wont fit as this is still M10 thread but has 15mm head
 
sambryant said:
yeah its definitely not the current manifold. i fitted mine 2 weeks ago and it fitted perfectly, tricky as you expect but no issues. i will have to meet up with you at bills sometime :) i have just finished running my car in, so will get the meth fitted asap and get a map tweak and hopefully get somewhere near the magic 300 mark. how are you running your car in?
Click to expand...

You'll should hit 300 easily now won't you Sam? Be suprised if not.

Am running mine in again now with new engine mounts and have a few irksome niggles, like a knocking when i engage the throttle after putting into gear but hey ho...modified cars eh!?

I'd meet up at Bills sometime to see them all together for a run.
 
Quick question lads. I've removed my charcoal can but I keep getting an engine check light after a while of the "incorrect flow" error being in VCDS for a while. Anyone know how to get round this?
 
You can use a 10w 330ohm resistor but it's a bit of a hack.

You've done all this work yourself, now you need to learn about the me7 :) then you can remove the evap

Removing the evap is your first challenge!
 
installing a resistor should stop the eml coming on but wont stop a fault code coming up. this will not effect performance. i think IE do a plug in resistor. i will get a link for you.
 
Don't use ****** resistors!!! nothing ever runs right when you delete using the ****** things... easier to get it coded out in the map... I have done this on mine...

<tuffty/>
 
Westy said:
Quick question lads. I've removed my charcoal can but I keep getting an engine check light after a while of the "incorrect flow" error being in VCDS for a while. Anyone know how to get round this?
Click to expand...

Can be coded out.... what map is on yours at the minute?

<tuffty/>
 
A resistor is only used when you've removed the solenoid anyway, of you've left it in its still working, just not seeing the correct flow. a resistor will dO jack ****
 
Last night I dropped the coolant and oil before doing a 70 mile round trip to Stacey's and back:

Coolant (mainly water) after 40 miles:

e92d7ad5.jpg


Oil after 40 miles:

8f123838.jpg


This little fella had made it's way into the sump and got drained with the oil. Slightly worrying!

2887506e.jpg




From doing a few more miles I have noticed a vibration through the DP. I think it's a clearance issue where the DP is hitting the tunnel around the prop. I'll get under the car tonight and see if I can bend some of the heat shield away from the DP.
 
One other thing to possibly try, you can move the engine side to side on the mounts as its on slots and you may be able to get a little bit on it like that to help clear a heatsheild or whatever it fouls on? :)
 
ScottB5 said:
That water looks manky mate.
Is there any oil in it?
did you flush it through after you drained it?
Click to expand...

I only put water in it after the build so I wasn't wasting coolant as I wanted to flush it again after a few days. This time around it has flushed some of the old existing coolant out. There would have still been some coolant in the system as it's difficult to completely flush the system as it sits in the matrix and other pipes.
 
Westy said:
I only put water in it after the build so I wasn't wasting coolant as I wanted to flush it again after a few days. This time around it has flushed some of the old existing coolant out. There would have still been some coolant in the system as it's difficult to completely flush the system as it sits in the matrix and other pipes.
Click to expand...

Hose pipe down a pipe and wait till the other pipe springs clean water?
 
Meh, after having the head off, the water will be manky. Just one of those things. Oil will have down the water galleries when the head came off. Drop that coolant, and refill, if it gets manky again, change again. It will be fine.

Cable tie in the engine is a fail though.... lol
 
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