Stacey's Belated Yo Yo Build Thread

I just rebuilt my head with new tappets, custom cams, and exhaust valves, with the rest of the supertech gear swapped over and its the quietest its been for a long time?

I feel ( and this is just me ) is that performance cams should be one of the last things to look at when you want more power

I think Tuffty will be using standard cams in his build and with the spec he has now should bring him very close to his 500 bhp goal
 
Andrew@A.L.D said:
I just rebuilt my head with new tappets, custom cams, and exhaust valves, with the rest of the supertech gear swapped over and its the quietest its been for a long time?

I feel ( and this is just me ) is that performance cams should be one of the last things to look at when you want more power

I think Tuffty will be using standard cams in his build and with the spec he has now should bring him very close to his 500 bhp goal
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I'm not talking audible noise....
 
s3dave said:
Get your parts in.... hes going...:bye:

He has supplied 60 % of my parts at a cracking price.....:beerchug:
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He really has done me some cracking prices even beating cheap pattern parts

I owe him another session out in the car round a track as he has contributed to it heavily parts and info wise

Andrew@A.L.D said:
Head was ported, polished, exhaust ports matched to TSR manifold, ferrea valves and spring kit fitted, valves were lapped in and spent a day doing it and head was then pressure tested after all the work.

The head was sent to Stacey to fit lifters and cams

I have offered to check the head over for free as i stand by my work and if theres a problem i will fix it
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Top service from Andrew as always and had offered like said to check the head over as soon as there was a hint of it coming out of the car....top bloke as has also sent me a few parts FOC over the build :)

beachbuggy said:
Im not doubting your work in any shape or form Andrew, I was more interested in what was fitted and whether the additional upgrades to the cams, valves etc has caused a side effect with regards engine noise.. I have a theory but it needs proving..
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I like theory's and am keen to hear about it, between you Bill and Niki tuning these cars is still going in leaps and bounds

Also have to thank Dan as has also given me help and advice behind the scenes with the turbo and derv tuning ;)

Byzan BAHons said:
also Staceys cams need to be properly timed rather than just replaced, I feel there is somethig going on there.With the added mechanical noise from the hardware, may explain a few things
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Yeah do get the feeling that a lot of it is due to them needing dialing in correctly although they were supposedly preset by Cat or Arnold no one knows where Bob Q sets them to when they're supplied and supposedly perform as his custom purple grind

I did really want to go for lairy cams originally or IECVA2's but IE cams were unavailable and was concerned over being a daily driver and loosing to much low down, but as we can't seem to use the boost low down due to surge and that drive ability around town is now less of a concern some IE cams will find they're way in especially due to the amount of testing they have done compared to other manufacturers :)

Do wonder if some of the knock that's being picked up is down to hardware or even the JE's slapping, as the bore sizes are something I want to check over again with a decent bore mic rather than some cheap bore T's I got off of eBay. Have thought it does sound a bit slappy when cold even though afaik JEs are known for this due to they're rate of thermal expansion?
 
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the limit is limit if ign advance.
2ltr strokers (all I have seen) run less timing that their 1800 cousins

Same goes for my tfsi K04... it does not run same timing as 1800's

seems a stroker thing, not a mis-Knock register event thing.
 
badger5 said:
the limit is limit if ign advance.
2ltr strokers (all I have seen) run less timing that their 1800 cousins

Same goes for my tfsi K04... it does not run same timing as 1800's

seems a stroker thing, not a mis-Knock register event thing.
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Cheers bill puts my mind at ease a bit

Finished changing the cam on the golf, the cam timing tools had purchased I wasn't to impressed with as the crank locking tool didn't fit properly almost like it was the wrong pitch or designed for a pulley with more teeth

Anyhows due to this I scribed the timing on the cam pulley and put it back in the exact same position

When checked with vcds to check the fine timing I was getting around 4-5 degrees correction value in block 4 for syncro angle



With a little bit of adjustment this was soon brought down to a reasonable level



The car drives better now and is less juddery but it seems to smoke a tad for the first 2-3 seconds on cold start up and sound tiny bit lumpy for them couple of seconds, this has been the case since the camshaft has been changed before and after the adjustment

Another little issue has reared its head....the car intermittently try's to turn itself into a caribbean climate as soon as you have the climate control above low

I've got a feeling it will have something to do with this lol





The wierd thing is that you would expect it would be open circuit and not work all the time but whatever it is the resistance must vary as gradually creeps from this to normal temps over a long drive, but when looked under the front bumper on the n/s theres a cut cable and a sensor with nothing attached which would assume is the outside temp sensor? But if this is the case wouldn't expect it to gradually work as short always be open circuit?
 
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One thing have been meaning to ask some advice on is wheels and tyres

Can't remember if had mentioned on here or not but have sold the 19' OZ superleggeras and the conti-5 tyres that were on them..

This leaves me with some 18's and 225 yoko AD08's which am going to use up, but not sure what i want to end up with for road tyres and track? One set fits all or one for each?

The car will be driven mainly in summer for thrash or to meets and events with the occasional bit of use to cover one of the other cars if need be

Am thinking of going for 17's for track but not sure about for road and what tyres to get?

Currently wondering what width wheels and tyres to go for? As want something to be able to cope with more power than currently on tap and hopefully a commonish size so won't be rediculous money and can pick up odd part worns

Whats your thoughts 17's 9J with 255's or something? or just stick with 225's? forgive me if i'm well out on tyre width's etc as not really my strong point :)
 
17x9 certainly looks fat. I run 245/40s but 255/40s could fit if you can run ET20-25, have pretty firm suspension and can dial in some camber. I run ET15 up front to clear the 6 pots so have to run 245s. You've probably seen pics so I won't repost but mine do stick out a touch on the front. The car feels super planted but I've yet to be silly enough to push it to the extent of loosing grip. Goes without saying that 255 on the rear wouldn't be a problem. Again though, you'd wanted ET25 or so if you're on 9s. I'm on ET20 and it's only close to the stupid plastic ledge thing you can feel with your hand on the outside of the arch. There's evidence it's been touching before but I think that was prior to the H&R RSS Clubsports (mega firm).

I say do it but you'll probably get told it's not needed. Sure, it probably isn't but technically neither is a GT35 ;)
 
On the tyre front, what's wrong with AD08s? Bill runs them too. I've found mine to be ok in the wet (who drives hard in the wet on public roads anyway?) and I drive mine daily. My rear tyres are slightly noisy but they are a little bit scalloped.

I have some A050s and D3Gs to try but need to buy a 4th rim. They wouldn't last long on the road though.
 
Cheers mate forgot you was on wider wheels

There's nothing wrong with the AD08's....found they made the car a lot more fun to drive in the wet with 4 wheel drifts a regular occurance ;)

If I stay with one set of wheels and tyres for everything AD08's will probably be top of my list but found for a lot of British wet weather my contisport 5's had so much more grip

I currently have the ad08's in 18' form to use but not sure on sizes to go for with regards to performance, 17's I presume for road and track? Although I found once had done a good few laps of Bedford it felt like my tyres were flat and was moving around a lot which suspect could be due to tyre walls going soft? If so will 17's feel even worse?

Am 99% sure the car will be getting another reasonable power hike and plans are set in motion with my turbo officially now up for sale (will also temporarily pay for crimbo) it will be replaced in the new year :)
 
Also have been wondering wether it's worth lowering comp ratio for the new blower with a normal thickness gasket as pistons are 9:1 but with the head skimmed, block decked and thinner gasket must be in the region of 9.5-10:1?
 
Leave it mate as i think Bill runs something in the 9's?

I know mine runs 8.76:1 as i CC'd the head and bowls in the pistons before my build

But i will be running big boost anyway
 
badger5 said:
water lines now invented and created.. funky shape on the one.. I think I should name this build fiddly as ****.. lol

946836_396758453775579_1615779749_n.jpg
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Hello bill.
What size used and hardline is SS?
 
Stace, I'd say go for 17" x 8" rims for all round use. Get some road legal semi slicks an then just take it easy if you're ever out in teh wet. You'll probably only take the car out in the dry anyway. The wider rim & tyre will give you more control and the 17" tyre & run will keep ride more comfy.
 
Well affraid not a great deal has been happening :(

Got the car insured yesterday fully comp, everything declared with just me on it this time, have now limited the milage to 5000 for £540 which am absolutely chuffed about :)

Mad thing is that the golf is for some reason dearer to insure with me and the mrs even if I try a quote using all my NCB on there....work that one out?

I've bought a couple of odd bits for the car including an innovate WB gauge and will be copying Andrew with the zada tech oil and boost pressure gauges as is very smart and not many options of boost gauges over 2 bar

Been doing lots of reading and reasearch on various comp wheels including titanium alloy, normal billet and blade designs
Blade design am pretty much set on 7+7 design as is what Dan found best with surge and spool plus the fact HTA and the EFR turbo's wear these says a lot and they're renowned for being fast spooling

Should be starting the car nearer the end off the month as shed's all done, garage/workshop is nearly done and will be concreting a slab for a bin storage/shelter this weekend which will release the section of drive behind the gates and in front of the garage :)
 
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Andrew that turbo is pure sex and would be my favoured choice but is currently way out of my price range as had been hoping for the turbo and cam swap to be self financing....main reason being the other half has been out of work for 2 months now and I've had no "extra" work for well over a month :(

That's a wicked bit of kit Darren but have bought the one with just AFR and has a digital red display which will go in the pillar pod in place of current boost gauge

Andrew if I fire you over a pic tommorrow could you take a measurement of your comp housing? It is a T04E iirc 4' in and 2' out?
 
Another option is the SPA dual gauges. They're really high quality. The sensors and loom are very well made and the gauge itself is simple and efficient. They're worth a look. Same sort of quality as Stack etc.
 
Cheers Sam they do look good but think I'm sold on how Andrew has done his :)

Well spent a tiny amount of time on the car and it looks like a T04E housing will fit after all

Turbo will by the looks of things be swung around slightly on the v-band to give another 5-10mm clearance, the comp outlet will have to point upwards a bit more but isn't an issue



Spent some time yesterday sorting out the garage some more and it's getting there and resembling an area that could work in

S3 where has been hibenating since sept



It's soon to be new home once have concreted tomorrow behind the shed and cleared all the other crap



Have put up a small stud wall as an aim to try and stop crap making it's way into the man cave



The actual man cave :) last main addition I want is a mig welder, but a piller drill, little lathe/mill combo would also go lovely....one day maybe



Am seriously hoping to really sink my teeth into it by the end of the month

I'm thinking it's worth me checking the compression before I tear it down for peace of mind, can anyone reconmend anything else worth checking?

Also forgot to add a thanks to Andrew for providing me measurements of the T04E comp housing in various areas :)
 
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Not a problem made, Its a good job we both have I-Messager as we both would of spent a fortune in text messages

I was going to buy a GTX plate for my S3 some time ago and i'm glad i didn't how, Looking for something like S111 HTA /S35 HTA would be nice lol
 
Andrew@A.L.D said:
Not a problem made, Its a good job we both have I-Messager as we both would of spent a fortune in text messages

I was going to buy a GTX plate for my S3 some time ago and i'm glad i didn't how, Looking for something like S111 HTA /S35 HTA would be nice lol
Click to expand...

Yeah would have used most of my inclusive texts lol

Rub it about the plate, may have jumped the gun lol, would've got my initials like most of the others have but have no middle name so only 2 letters
 
I was going to get just "GTX" as you can run a smaller plate here that way. Only downer is it's an extra $400 a year! So I didn't bother.

Regarding housings, you have a T04B now it'd seem and Tuffty has a T04S. I was unaware that the ported anti surge housing was referred to as a T04E. There seems to be so much variation though, some "T04E" have 3" in, 2" out etc.
 
The T04E are found mainly on the GT3076, I'm sure thats one in your sig Sam? They also do standard that has a 3 in inlet

comp%20hsg%204%20in%202%20out%20ps.jpg


They can also be machined to fit GT3582 turbos when room is tight
 
Yeah that's what mine has. I also have a compact housing that's been machined for the GTX wheel in case I need it.
 
Try not to use the compact one as you have a similar set up to stacey.

I've never had problems with surge or boost creep even thought i run a 38mm W/G

Seams the TSR set up suffer from creep
 
Pretty sure it was fixed when they brought in the 44mm wastegate option (based on Bills feedback) but we'll see? Not sure Stacey had issues with creep? I was planning on running the larger housing unless I ran into issues space wise. Should be ok though.
 
Yes i remember now they sorted it with a 44mm W/G it was just Surge with Staceys set up

Stacey are you still planning on fitting a different compressor housing and wheel?
 
****** hell that's mad having to keep paying for a private plate every year!

All the tsr manis afaik past sept 2012 should have the bigger 44mm wastegate feed as had to wait for mine fair ages as was the start of the new revised batch

We did encounter surge with mine below 5k iirc but no issues at all with creep like others

Here's a plot which shows boost and also has the old k26 setup on there as comparison



I'm aiming to go for a billet gt3582 on either .72 or .82 hotside and comp side will probably either be a T04E housing like Andrews or the FP's own compact housing

 
Have bought a new addition to the man cave to aid with future mods, reason behind it is I don't have same privileges at the new job with regards to doing homework at work



Should be making a start on the car this afternoon all being well :)
 
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I am going to ask Bill if he can show me the basics of TIG welding... I would like to weld my tailpipes so I can at least say I did some actual welding on my car rather than my current skill level of tacking (badly but getting better) using a MIG :)

<tuffty/>
 
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