Smokey 2.0Tdi

Ianski68

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so I have noticed recently that my car seems to be very smokey. This seems to occur whilst the engine is getting to working temp! Kind of reminds me in the 80's petrol engine and on Choke if that makes sense. I'm showing my age here..lol I have only recently noticed it.

Thoughts.
 
When was the last time you had the egr valve removed and cleaned? Id start with that just to tick it off the list as its a quick 1 or 2 hr job + about £5 for gaskets. Even if not the cause its a good yearly maintenance for our diesels.
 
I spotted on the "what have you done " thread a post. He took his manifold and 2 other bits off. Is this what you are referring to?
 
Not to that particular thread no. I just make a point of removing egr and cleaning on yearly basis as preventative maintenance. !st time I did this I removed the inlet manifold too but haven't since.
 
The manifold is that where the swirl flaps are? Would it be worth doing the full month. Manifold/Egr etc
 
Is the Egr fired to the inlet manifold. I am clueless dude sorry.
 
The manifold is that where the swirl flaps are? Would it be worth doing the full month. Manifold/Egr etc

Yes it is and if you can be bothered, then yes I would do both egr and manifold.

Also recommend whilst the manifold is off change the vacuum actuator bolted to the manifold that controls the flaps. Two torx screws to take it off and genuine part is only about £10. The rubber diaphragm inside them is prone to wearing.

One piece of advice... before removing the inlet manifold would be to make sure the top of it is clean near the gasket as if its not then you'll probably get a load of nasty crap fall into the head inlet ports. This is what happened to me, the neighbours thought I was barmy when they witnessed me hovering the inside of my engine whilst swearing at myself !!!
 
Is the Egr fired to the inlet manifold. I am clueless dude sorry.
There is plenty of good guides on the forum for removing and cleaning egr valves, I will try to link one on this thread for you
 
Just had another thought, maybe try investigating fuel temp sensor and coolant temp sensor.
 
Been trying to find the thread I used for removing the manifold but came up blank.

One thing you need to be aware of... there is a securing bolt inside the manifold that you only see when you remove the egr valve. This one can sometimes be hidden under a load of crud so you'll need to scrape some crud off to locate it
 
This is fantastic. Many thanks for the info. Will give it a go in a few weeks. What do you use to clean the components?
 
Also
Do you know what bolts secure all this on. I'm guessing torx?
 
From memory Allen/hex key bolts, where are you located?
 
I used Wynns egr cleaner last couple of times but it's very expensive stuff. Next time I will try normal carb cleaner. Some recommend mr muscle oven cleaner but I'm not so sure of that myself.
 
Some really great help. Appreciated as always. I have been told Mr Muscle oven cleaner to clean the parts. Egr/shudder valves and manifold! Is this correct?

Also

After reading the linked threads I now have some reservations as there seem to be a load of posts where people have performed this which should be quite straight forward and end up with problems after. .....Hmmmmmmmm
 
Really! Must admit I didn't read the whole thread just wanted a clue how to remove and clean egr myself.

Because I'm lazy and can't be bothered to read the whole thread, can you enlighten me to what problems others had?

I've had no issues after and can see no reason why (if done correctly) this could have nothing but a positive effect.
 
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There a quite a few issues where they after performing this clean up have problems with what may be the shudder valve. Enginecshudderscwhen turned off etc.

To be fair I am probably over thinking things.
 
There a quite a few issues where they after performing this clean up have problems with what may be the shudder valve. Enginecshudderscwhen turned off etc.

To be fair I am probably over thinking things.

Yep, I think you're over thinking things

Only issue you may have is if you decide to remove and clean anti shudder valve and screw it up at the same time, which has got to be a hard task! As far as I'm aware Its only purpose is to be open or closed in order to stop engine over run when you turn engine off.
 
Before you start stripping bits off have you thought of using a different brand of fuel to see if it smokes less?
 
I have. Originally I thought that there may of been contamination at the service station. So ran the tank down and re fueled at another station. Still same as. Smokey until up to a good working temp.
 
Yep, I think you're over thinking things

Only issue you may have is if you decide to remove and clean anti shudder valve and screw it up at the same time, which has got to be a hard task! As far as I'm aware Its only purpose is to be open or closed in order to stop engine over run when you turn engine off.

will remove each component one at a time. Clean all 3 components together then re assemble.
 
Adding Semi Synthetic 2 Stroke Oil to my diesel when filling up stopped what little smoke I had coming out....it makes the fuel burn better as well as lubricating things like the fuel pump etc.

If you don't have a DPF you can use standard Mineral 2 Stroke Oil.
 
So many questions I know sorry! I like to get my monies worth lol

But also do the bolts on the valves or the manifold require being torqued ?

And if so to what....
 
Adding Semi Synthetic 2 Stroke Oil to my diesel when filling up stopped what little smoke I had coming out....it makes the fuel burn better as well as lubricating things like the fuel pump etc.

If you don't have a DPF you can use standard Mineral 2 Stroke Oil.
How much do you add Carl? Any particular oil to use?
 
mines a 140....So you say use mineral 2 stroke. How much to a full tank do you add. Also! will that not just make it smoke more?
thanks

It's basically a 1:200 ratio. So for every 20 litres I add 100ml of 2 stroke oil and after a couple of fill ups you will see that the car runs better.

I grabbed this from Google and this is what it does.....

1. 2-stoke burns better and more cleanly than diesel. This means more complete combustion of your diesel fuel.

2. Helps to initially clean out the engine internals, and keeps them clean.

3. Restores missing lubricants (and more) from low sulphur diesel.

4. The engine runs much more smoothly and is much quieter.

5. Significant reduction in smoke from exhaust (due to better combustion). Applicable for cars with no DPF

6. Keeps the DPF cleaner.

7. Increases the life of the engine, including injectors, fuel pump, etc.
 
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Can't find it.....it was a thread @SDHA4SLine had started about his car being a little smokey but I cannot find it.

But as Google is a good friend of mine, as long as you follow these specifications JASO FC for a DPF vehicle and JASO FB for non DPF
 
Can't find it.....it was a thread @SDHA4SLine had started about his car being a little smokey but I cannot find it.

But as Google is a good friend of mine, as long as you follow these specifications JASO FC for a DPF vehicle and JASO FB for non DPF
I found changing from shell vmax to BP ultimate sorted all my smoking issues but when I started a thread about it I got the **** ripped out of me for it so I asked admin to delete the thread. All I can say is since using bp ultimate no smoke what so ever. However my issue was different to yours, it only happened under load/hard excelleration.
 
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So many questions I know sorry! I like to get my monies worth lol

But also do the bolts on the valves or the manifold require being torqued ?

And if so to what....
Yes but I if you ask this you'll get the **** taken out of you for being anal about it like I did. I just went down to my dealer and asked them for the torque settings but can't remember what they were now, I will do the same I a few months when I do this to my car again.
 
One last thing. Promise lol

Does it go in before or after the fuel goes in.
 

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