s3 8l turbo removal....

[JUS3IN]

hey all, anyone following my other thread will know i removed the turbo from my apy engined s3 today, this is partly because i couldnt find a clear turbo out guide and partly to help me remember how to put it back... here we go bullet points!
head on! 3.5 hrs two/three (the third spent most of the time working on his own a3 turbo sport!!!) people, first time... lots of wd40 a few hours before start. turbo has also been taken off two years previous. engine cold, should have warmed it first but forgot.

*aquire beer
*charge pipe off
*turbo intake pipe off (tip) inc dv
*remove heatshield behind turbo, allen keys.
*remove wheel, wishbone three nuts, droplink x2 spanners, driveshaft (special hex drives buy these first) from gearbox end off, tie driveshaft up to spring out the way.
*crack turbo bracket nut x1 and turbo to exhaust manifold nuts x3
*remove downpipe (lamda?) sensor
*remove downpipe nuts x3, one nearest the fire wall is a nightmare all 16mm(rare but we used a smaller sparkplug socket to get the reach over the studs, will need a long reach socket.
*remove oil and water returns engine side through drivers wheel arch, easy allen keys.
*remove turbo to mani nuts, hex drives(like allen keys but not, get the right ones!)
*pull turbo back and remove oil and water feeds from the turbo on top, easy to see once the turbos loose! allen keys.
*remove turbo bracket nut 14mm, from drivers wheel arch.
*remove turbo

all done with the halfords proffessional tool kit except the drive shaft hex drive thing'ys and a few extra extensions.... all in all it was a nice day and went pretty smoothly other than my locking wheel nut being stuck which is irrelivent here!-)

 

[doughty29]

hey all, anyone following my other thread will know i removed the turbo from my apy engined s3 today, this is partly because i couldnt find a clear turbo out guide and partly to help me remember how to put it back... here we go bullet points!
head on! 3.5 hrs two/three (the third spent most of the time working on his own a3 turbo sport!!!) people, first time... lots of wd40 a few hours before start. turbo has also been taken off two years previous. engine cold, should have warmed it first but forgot.

*aquire beer
*charge pipe off
*turbo intake pipe off (tip) inc dv
*remove heatshield behind turbo, allen keys.
*remove wheel, wishbone three nuts, droplink x2 spanners, driveshaft (special hex drives buy these first) from gearbox end off, tie driveshaft up to spring out the way.
*crack turbo bracket nut x1 and turbo to exhaust manifold nuts x3
*remove downpipe (lamda?) sensor
*remove downpipe nuts x3, one nearest the fire wall is a nightmare all 16mm(rare but we used a smaller sparkplug socket to get the reach over the studs, will need a long reach socket.
*remove oil and water returns engine side through drivers wheel arch, easy allen keys.
*remove turbo to mani nuts, hex drives(like allen keys but not, get the right ones!)
*pull turbo back and remove oil and water feeds from the turbo on top, easy to see once the turbos loose! allen keys.
*remove turbo bracket nut 14mm, from drivers wheel arch.
*remove turbo

all done with the halfords proffessional tool kit except the drive shaft hex drive thing'ys and a few extra extensions.... all in all it was a nice day and went pretty smoothly other than my locking wheel nut being stuck which is irrelivent here!-)

what tool did you use to unbolt the turbo from the manifold? (the star bolts) thanks

 

[Scullies]

you need the correct size and shape socket and a LOOOONG breaker bar as those bolts are TIGHT!

 

[doughty29]

Ive tried that already haha ive been using an e14 female torx socket and a loooong breaker bar, got one out , but is slipping on the remaining two...

 

[Scullies]

hmmmm, if the bolts are rounded you are in trouble. Happened to me too, but my engine was out the car so I ended up welding nuts to the bolt heads. The heat from welding also help loosen things up.

Did you use some kind of penetrating fluid on the bolts before starting?

 

[doughty29]

They arent rounded yet, I can just tell they arent sitting right on the head of the bolt I will get some wd-40 on there with some heat, need to find something that will grip onto it properly

 

[Scullies]

if the socket is slipping and the bolts arent rounded then its not the right size socket. Take the bolt you have removed and try find a socket that fits snug.

 

[doughty29]

The socket fits nicely on the bolt but on the other two bolts the socktet seemes to twist its way up and over the pocket of the torx, its almost as if the head of the bolt is too shallow

 

[Scullies]

you might need someone to push down on the socket while you pull on the breaker bar. It might be "twisting" off as you pulling on the bar and an angle.
Could also try hammering the bolt to shock it a bit. Dont HULK smash it or you might crack the manifold

PS: dont spray wd-40 then use heat, you might have a small fire

 

[doughty29]

Yeah i just said that to a mate, i will give that a go. Dont care about the old mani, already got a v3 to replace it, and of course haha

 

[hardhitter]

Can anyone tell me the bolt torque for the manifold to turbo bolts ?
Cheers

 

[s3dave]

Found this on a vag site...



Turbo to manifold bolts (the 3 star Ribe head ones)

30Nm.

Downpipe to turbo (the 3 nuts that go onto the studs)
40Nm.

Banjo bolts for oil feed pipe
Turbo CHRA
Oil line securing bolt 10Nm.
Hollow bolt into CHRA 30Nm.
Oil filter housing
Oil line securing bolt23Nm.
Hollow bolt into oil housing 30Nm.

Water lines
Turbo CHRA to engine block
Hollow bolt CHRA 30Nm.
Waterline securing bolt 10Nm.
Hollow bolt engine block 35Nm.
Turbo CHRA to cooling circuit
Hollow bolt CHRA 35Nm.
Waterline securing bolt20Nm.

Oil return line
Bolts to sump 10Nm.
Bolts to CHRA 10Nm.

Turbo to engine block holding mount
Turbo 30Nm.
Block 20Nm.