Prawn and BigAls A3 Track Car

Bought some suede cleaner and mini wire brushes today to have a go at cleaning the suede steering wheel.

Have just had a go and I THINK it's worked. It's in the garden drying as we speak :)
 
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Didn't take any pictures before hand stupidly, as I wasn't that confident this would work, but I'm happy to say I'm pleased with the results :)



It's come up pretty well for a wheel that's 3 years and over 20k miles old!

 
Right. Where's @antwan64og s thread?! I need one f these AFPRs. Struggling to find one on eBay.de

Went for a drive this morning.

Car starts off crazy fast, but typical AGU richens itself up after a bit of a thrash, and drops into low 10's as it has done for some time. Is still fast, but feels flat, and it's getting into bore wash territory.

Long term solution: £900 on emerald standalone and have it mapped properly.

Short term solution whilst I'm paying for a wedding: adjustable fuel pressure reg and drop fuel pressure until it leans out suitably. Monitored on my wideband.
 
Oh. And steering wheel feels amazing! Just like brand new again! Can't believe I didn't clean it sooner :)

Will be giving it a decent clean every 6 months or so now to keep it fresh :)
 
Prawn said:
Right. Where's @antwan64og s thread?! I need one f these AFPRs. Struggling to find one on eBay.de

Went for a drive this morning.

Car starts off crazy fast, but typical AGU richens itself up after a bit of a thrash, and drops into low 10's as it has done for some time. Is still fast, but feels flat, and it's getting into bore wash territory.

Long term solution: £900 on emerald standalone and have it mapped properly.

Short term solution whilst I'm paying for a wedding: adjustable fuel pressure reg and drop fuel pressure until it leans out suitably. Monitored on my wideband.
Click to expand...


Try this mate.
http://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/cgi-b...m=2100021&file=12&gesamt_zeilen=0Tsuche--1.8T

I have used these guys for a few parts, great range of products for sale and excellent service too.
 
Thanks chaps.

Currently exploring another option at the moment. Will know more shortly.

In the interests of testing I threw a 3 bar for in the other night, so removed around 15% of the fuelling, and it's gone from 10:1 afr up to 11.6-7 ish, without meth. So it's better, but ultimately still rich!
 
11.6 is good for a track car, extra fuel helps keep it cool when you're thrashing it.
I'm not using the AFPR at the moment its in the glove box, it only goes down to 3 bar so would be no use to you really.

You need a remap and 550cc injectors..... too bad tuners are limited these days.
 
Exactly, as it only does 3-5 it'd be no good to me at all. I was thinking 3.4-3.6 would be enough reduction to bring it back into line, but clearly not!

11.6 isn't bad, and like you say it's good for fuel cooling, but it's still fairly rich, and that's without any meth being injected, so when meth is added to that it'll drop to very low 11's which is just too rich still.

Being so utterly dim the ME3.8 can't add / remove fuel to compensate for meth / no meth, so as it stands even on a 3 bar fpr it's still too rich.

The 3.8 won't be being mapped again. of that I am certain, I'm not wasting any more time or money on old technology that nobody wants to touch.

What was interesting, is how different the car felt at 11.6:1 compared to the previous 10's, it sounded sharper and more crisp, and pulled noticably harder above 5500rpm too, which is no bad thing! The UberRichness must have been costing me 30bhp+ at a guess!
 
Any change in EGT's or IAT's from leaning it out a bit with the 3 bar FPR?

Do you even need to use the WMI if your IAT's aren't shooting up?

If everything looks look on the gauges and logs just keep the 3 bar regulator in.

Is there even any point changing engine management if you're not changing the turbo for a bigger one?

Lastly are you still using 100,000 mile old coils or did you change them in the end???
 
Maybe Bill will Sponsor you and donate a fully mapped and wired in DTA S80 to the cause :sign wow:
 
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antwan64og said:
Any change in EGT's or IAT's from leaning it out a bit with the 3 bar FPR?

Do you even need to use the WMI if your IAT's aren't shooting up?

If everything looks look on the gauges and logs just keep the 3 bar regulator in.

Is there even any point changing engine management if you're not changing the turbo for a bigger one?
Click to expand...

Mild increase in EGT's as you'd expect when removing a **** load of fuel cooling, but when i say mild, it's risen from mid 700's to 800 at the end of a redline pull through 2nd-4th, measured at the start of the DP. This is where it's always run historically and doesn't creep up much beyond that ever regardless of how hard it's driven.

WMI - yes. I'm absolutely always going to use it, whether technically required or not. It's a safe guard that keeps everything colder, provides ultimate resistance to knock, and allows me to lower EGT and make power through safely running lots of timing, in turn meaning the boost requirements arn't silly high so the turbo isn't a total heat pump. It's win/win/win on that front and I don't intend to run on track without at all.

I'm at a stage where I don't want to be reliant on ALWAYS having to book in to a tuner to make any small changes / tweaks every time I change anything on the engine, or worse, as the case has been, avoid making any changes at all because of the complete lack of support for the crappy 3.8 ECU these days.

I want to be able to play with settings, change parts and around and make small tweaks, build up a library of different maps that give me different delivery options.

I want to experiment on the road with different boost profiles, wet weather setups, all sorts, as well as gain the safety of closed loop fuelling and EGT control.

ME7.5 can do many of these things, but learning all the definition files as well as the mapping aspect is more hassle than I want, and if you don't do it yourself then you're still 100% reliant on A N Other.

I want to go stand alone, and spend a while fiddling myself and get it somewhere at least half close. Then spend some time on the dyno to tune it to effectively it's max, so I know what's safe and what range I can safely experiement within also.

The ME3.8 is a problematic ecu at the best of times. peak boost can vary massively not just day to day, but each time I put my foot down. it won't adapt, it's difficult to map, it's just generally a bit crap.

I also get to ditch the annoying MAF!

Put simply - I've come to hate 3.8, and I want out!

We shall see what happens.......
 
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I'm also looking into changing to ME7.5 or standalone. Requested a quote for DTA S60... expensive bit of kit :O
 
:respekt:
Haha, I was expecting a string of obscenities in response.

Just depends how deep you can dig Prawny...... £1,000 get you an ecu with 4 wheel traction control
 
Jardo rang me Sunday morning.

He wanted a lift to Billingshurst to pick up his golf.


I gave him he option of £20 for fuel in the van, or take the a3 and it costs what it costs :racer:



140 Miles later, Half of that in convoy, much fun was had :racer:
 
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I suspect it cost a bit more than £20 to do 140 miles :)
 
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2 fantastic looking cars!
You guys are lucky you have decent roads to drive around.
 
antwan64og said:
Is it any more economical running 15% less fuel, lol
Click to expand...

It is actually, noticeably so. Haha.

In other news, I noticed some cracks appearing in my forge throttle body hose recently:



A quick email to forge, and this arrived 2 days later:





Excellent service :) thanks!
 
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that's what I love about Forge, you wouldn't get that that kind of service with cheap ebay rubbish
 
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When you go about standalone ecu nick can you set up some info as I too even though have wayyyyyy less knowledge want out of this ecu and I am not getting rid of the car so standalone route I'm going too but will all be fitted and bought from someone who knows what their doing I shall email bill and see if that's something he can do for me
 
Will do mate. When it happens I will be sharing plenty of info :) watch this space ;)

Anther enjoyable weekend here in Hampshire, perfect weather, and I have the car a good run on both days :)



It really is quite noticeably more powerful with the 3 bar fpr installed and fuelling a little closer to optimal. Hopefully to be improved further again when I have full control of the fuelling at some point in the near future :)
 
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The car sits really well with that spoiler may I ask are you using standard drop links obviously of a lcr or s3 as mine when sitting as low as yours scraped like mad with my r32 front arb so I had to have them shortened now it's fine but still can catch now and again and I'm sitting roughly 25 ish mm higher than you then again u may have 18s and not 17s duh lol
 
Mrharris2 said:
The car sits really well with that spoiler may I ask are you using standard drop links obviously of a lcr or s3 as mine when sitting as low as yours scraped like mad with my r32 front arb so I had to have them shortened now it's fine but still can catch now and again and I'm sitting roughly 25 ish mm higher than you then again u may have 18s and not 17s duh lol
Click to expand...

Still not convinced your arb is r32 as it goes over the drive shafts mate r32 goes under
 
I can turn it around and it can go under I'm sure the mechanic fitted it wrong he just wanted to follow how the old one went as I've looked and there is plenty of space for it I will change it around one day lol
 
Mine looks a bit lower than it is due to the pretty massive 235/45/17 tyres. It is a little low at the back though and could do with raising, although it never rubs anywhere at all as it is now.

@Mrharris2 is there a pic of your Arb anywhere? Sounds to me like it may not be an r32 one. An r32 Arb flipped over would be identical bar the kink for the dog bone.
 
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Ah fair enough it looks better abit lower plus mine has slight body roll and I don't like it lol, yeah I'll take one now by the looks of it he has put it upside down as it would fit over the dogbone but you tell me as you know what your looking for lol if you can see that is buddy,
Image
 
Big hoops = not an R32 bar.

R32 bar is 'flat' like this:

$_86.JPG


As a result the entire bar sits below the driveshafts, so there's no risk of it rubbing (well, not in the same way as the standard/hooped version does anyway)
 
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S'ok dude.

As R-bizzle said, that's not an r32 bar at all. Infact, it looks stock!

Get an r32 bar or similar in there
 
Will do mate I measured it myself my stock one was 17mm I think and this one measured at 22.8mm to be precise so it's an improvement but as you said not an r32 one I'll have a butchers thanks mate, also been looking at the k6 ecu in the website coming up at 759 I think and 150 ish for the adaptor to agu loom not bad all in all
 
K6 is something you should read up on :) like I said, watch this space ;) soon!
 
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Not currently mate.

Got a few other things on the go at the moment, not to mention a garage I've still not built yet!

Once there is a garage up this year than the more labour intensive stuff can begin :)
 
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When you say a few other things.....you mean just in life in general or car things you're keeping quite? haha

Yeah. You think you will have the garage done before winter?
 
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