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Oil+Water Temps??

THE MONSTER Feb 14, 2010

  1. THE MONSTER

    THE MONSTER Member

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    A4 1997 1.8t Water Temp is between 75-80 and Oil Temp is just above 80..are these Temps ok..the car as done 93,00 miles and is running fine..
    would appreciate your comments...
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2010
  2. phoenixv6quattro

    phoenixv6quattro staylowmovefast

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    Mone sits between 80-100 oil temp, and bang on 90 water temp. My car is healthy so those readings are spot on. Your water temp is off. It should be bang on 90 ( the instrument reading anyway ). Sounds like your coolant temperature is knackered, if it isn't that your thermostat might be stuck open/faulty. How long does it take for it to get up to temp?
     
  3. THE MONSTER

    THE MONSTER Member

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    Yes water Temp does take quite a while to get between 75-80 I must say, I had not noticed it before till I did read here that 90 was the norm,as you say Bang on and should be 90..what will it entail to fix..would it be doing any damage running like this for long..I think I will go for another drive to see..how long before it should reach proper Temp do you think..
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2010
  4. aragorn

    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    i'd say thermostat before CTS.

    The fact its reading something, and climbing slowly, says faulty themostat to me. A dodgy CTS is more likely to simply read nothing.

    Also the engine has a oil -> water cooler, so if the coolant temp is low, it will hold the oil temp down too
     
  5. aragorn

    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    As for a fix, a stat is around a tenner from all german parts or about 20 from the dealer.

    You can probably swap it on your drive in around an hour, probably half that in a garage with ramps etc.
     
  6. THE MONSTER

    THE MONSTER Member

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    Right,Been for a 10 mile drive when I came back Oil was barely 80 and Water Temp was 75...so Thermostat then,is there a thread anywhere with pics to Change it do you know..
     
  7. phoenixv6quattro

    phoenixv6quattro staylowmovefast

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    I agree 100% with Aragorn. Change the stat before the sender. Those are the exact symptoms my car had. Let me guess, with the heater on it takes longer to get up to temp/temp drops down when you put the heater on! Stat buddy. Deffo! Your lucky its not a v6. Cambelt off job for a stat most of the time! Should reach op temp in under 3-5 mins. To find out how to do it (I'm using my iphone mate, otherwise I would put a link in) go to audidiy.com , select b5, select engine/mechanical and you should find something there. Failing that do a search on this forum using thermostat as your search/key word. Good luck duck!
     
  8. THE MONSTER

    THE MONSTER Member

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    Tried the places that were mentioned finding it hard to find a thread to replace the thermostat..
     
  9. aragorn

    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    I just went for it without a guide.

    The haynes tells you to dismantle half the car, which isnt needed.

    If you remove the undertray and follow the bottom radiator hose, you'll see its clipped onto a black plastic housing. Remove the housing (2 bolts) and the stat is right there. You'll need to drain the coolant (theres a tap on the front lower corner of the radiator) and make sure you replace it with the proper red longlife coolant, not the blue/green stuff.

    Its a bit fiddly, but its not too difficult. Was the first job i did on ours when we baught it.
     
  10. THE MONSTER

    THE MONSTER Member

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    how much Red Stuff do I need to get to replace what comes out and I read somewhere that you should use distilled water as well...and do you get the new o Ring with the thermostat...is the o ring the Gasket on the front of the housing..is GSF ok instead of dealers for thermostat and Red Stuff..do you need gasket sealant for housing??also will it effect the heater draining the system..
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2010
  11. phoenixv6quattro

    phoenixv6quattro staylowmovefast

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    Yeah mate you should just crack on with it! You will need.....approx 5 litres of G12 (I always use clean filtered water due to horrendous limescale in Wycombe!), obviously a thermostat, a rubber ring/seal for it (they actually sell them seperately!), and a bag of morale. Don't forget to bleed the system afterwards(pull the left hand heater pipe slightly forward untill the tiny hole at the top of the pipe is off the metal pipe).
     
  12. THE MONSTER

    THE MONSTER Member

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    is gsf ok then for G12 or is it Dealers only..plus when bleeding the system do you have the car running at Temp to (pull the left hand heater pipe slightly forward untill the tiny hole at the top of the pipe is off the metal pipe).so Tap water no Good then..
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2010
  13. phoenixv6quattro

    phoenixv6quattro staylowmovefast

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    No mate tap water should be ok! Its just where I live its like drinking chalk! Lol! Any auto factors (europarts/gsf etc) will sell G12. Its just the red stuff as aragorn says. Yes mate up to temp reference the bleeding.
     
  14. THE MONSTER

    THE MONSTER Member

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    sorry for being a pain mate 50/50 for red stuff to water is that right..
     
  15. Broken Byzan

    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User quattro Audi A4

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    Yarp. thats the fella
     
  16. aragorn

    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    The stuff i baught was ready mixed, and i poured it in neat. Some stuff comes concentrated and requires dilution.

    I've never run the engine to bleed it, and mine took 7 litres of coolant.

    I just removed the heater hose and poured the coolant in until it came out the hose. Squeezed the pipes a bit and that was it. Clipped the heater hose back on and ran it up to temperature.
     
  17. THE MONSTER

    THE MONSTER Member

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  18. phoenixv6quattro

    phoenixv6quattro staylowmovefast

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    What I meant was 5 litres of G12, then obviously mix the water in in a ratio you prefer. I've always bled all my past and present motors starting from cold, then up to op temp, never had an issue doing it like that. Courses for horses......
     

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