New to this forum/ build thread.

aragorn said:
So reading that. B1 S2 is the rear lambda sensor on the right side of the car (passenger side in the USA), and its heater has failed.

B1 S1 is the front sensor on that side, and B2 S1 is the front sensor on the other side, which may be faulty, or there may be other running issues which have given the sensors incorrect outputs.
Click to expand...
Well she did sit for a year, I'm going to put some premium and cleaner through her and dive her a Lil bit see if they need a cleaning.
Only the one came back, as seen in the second picture.
And on the other codes my blower motor and blend doors have absolutely no problems working and they do there job so IDK what's up with those codes.

This Friday I plan on ordering the following.
Spark plugs
7q fully syn
Oil filter
Tires for front
Reg
Sea foam

Thursday I should have my specialty tool for the Cv, my cold air setup, and my new lugs.

This weekend she should be moving =)
 
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Order list Friday.
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Registration Friday as well.

Spoiled bitch lol
 
yea mines is going to be getting spoiled over the next wee while aswel.
Im just waiting on some decent weather then this is my list..

clutch
dual mass flywheel
timing belt
water pump
power steering pump
sub frame
suspension arms
4 wheel alignment
 
One of my local carbines owes me an alignment so I'll be going there
My timing bets pretty much brand new along with my brakes and clutch.
 
So she's overheating. Worms up normal but lower radiator hose is ice cold.
Have new thermostat ready for installation, just looking for some pointers or any pitas or tricks.
I've done a ton of reading, and ill be sliding the tbelt carefully forward enough to change it out while still on sprocket.
Just want some input
 
Hmm.

For the effort involved stripping it down, i would be tempted to check and replace the waterpump.

Thermostats in my experience tend to stick open, whereas the water pumps are known to crack the impeller and slip on the shaft.
 
aragorn said:
Hmm.

For the effort involved stripping it down, i would be tempted to check and replace the waterpump.

Thermostats in my experience tend to stick open, whereas the water pumps are known to crack the impeller and slip on the shaft.
Click to expand...
She's all good now, took 2.5 hours, no more overheating!
And yes I've read they usually fail open to prevent overheating I got unlucky...
As for that I know what it takes to do the timing belt now, this summer I'll book doing the whole kit as the timing belt has some slop on top of pass side cam
The belts new but I think the tensioner is old. I think they did just the belt
 
good news.

ive seen a few folk just doing the belt to try and save cash.
personally if im in there the full lot would get done.
belt, tensioner, idlers, water ump and thermostat. I would also do the auxiliary drive belts while the front end iis off. at least that way its all done.
 
When one get to it this summer I'll be replacing the following
Drivers finder
Timing kit
Aux belt and tensioner
I'm waiting for funds to put the new used set of tires on the front so I'm not running two different sized tires.
Oil change and seafoaming
I'm in love with the car though. Love head over heals.

As for the starter its got its own mind, lately it's started after one click.

Also have to address rear end cluck I sometimes get
 
You need a special tool to lock the camshafts when you do the timing.

If you dont use it, the tensioner pulls one cam out of alignment, its essentially impossible to do the belt properly without it, and if your belt is loose thats probably why.

And seriously, dont drive the car with those missmatched tyres, you WILL break it. If you must drive it, 30mph MAX and keep the throttle applications light.
 
aragorn said:
You need a special tool to lock the camshafts when you do the timing.

If you dont use it, the tensioner pulls one cam out of alignment, its essentially impossible to do the belt properly without it, and if your belt is loose thats probably why.

And seriously, dont drive the car with those missmatched tyres, you WILL break it. If you must drive it, 30mph MAX and keep the throttle applications light.
Click to expand...

Yea I've read all about that tool, I'll be getting it this summer to do my timing belt.

I am trying to be easy but it's a little hard lol, they new fronts should be on today if I can scrounge up the money somehow..

Edit
Getting new tires on today and going to get the alignment owed to me
 
aragorn said:
You need a special tool to lock the camshafts when you do the timing.

If you dont use it, the tensioner pulls one cam out of alignment, its essentially impossible to do the belt properly without it, and if your belt is loose thats probably why.
Click to expand...

I managed to do my 2.8 V6 cambelt on the Silver avant without any special tools. In fact, just used 'the line of sight' rule. lol. All went together well and ran well. Maybe I got lucky.
 
I'll buy the tool for safety and security
A ling mentor scheduled tomorrow at 1 and tire swap
 
S4_dan said:
I managed to do my 2.8 V6 cambelt on the Silver avant without any special tools. In fact, just used 'the line of sight' rule. lol. All went together well and ran well. Maybe I got lucky.
Click to expand...

The problem is the way the tensioner works.

You fit the belt on all the marks, then pull the pin out of the tensioner, and it pulls all the slack out of the belt, but because theres slack in the V between the two cams, it pulls one of the cams out of position once its tensioned.

With the proper tool, you pull the cam pulleys off their tapered seat so they are free to rotate independent of the cams, and then lock the cams in place with the bar. That way, when you tension the belt, the pulleys are free to turn to let the tensioner pull up all the slack, then you tighten down the pulleys to lock everything back in place.

The engine will often run just fine with the belt out, so often folk will do what you did and not notice.
 
So I checked my rear end today and the rear end where the CVS bolt to the different I can turn the CVS and create the clunking.. Is this bad different oil or is this a half junk rear end?
Tires are going on tomorrow so I won't worry about different sized tires anymore.
I'm going to start with some new differential oil and see what happens, but either way if it needs a new rear end it's getting one when the time comes. This car is my baby
 
Many B5's have this issue, theres a multitude of causes, and many folk have never cured it.

The basic issue boils down to slack in the drivetrain. There are 10 CV joints, all of which wear, there are three differentials which wear, and each diff also has splined input and output shafts which wear, the gearbox itself wears, as does the clutch/flywheel, and lastly the mountings that tie it all together go soft and let it all clunk around.

Most people seem to start with the mountings on the engine/transmission and rear diff, and sometimes that cures it.

Can you describe how it sounds and feels when driving?
 
If I put in first and let cluck out quick I get an audible cluck I can feel, I can then shift into reverse and get it again.
It's had it since I've gotten the car
With the car in neutral and the ebrake on I git under and where the inner CVS bolt to the differential I can spin the CVS and diff and Recreate the clunk. Today I'll be examining more. But this will be getting fixed asap

When driving at a take off it sometimes has the clunk, like the rear end is catching up to the front

Sometimes I get it inbetween shifting while pushing her a little.
If it's from different sized tires... Well that's going to change today.
 
yeh but the issue is the whole drivetrain is connected together. Grab any part of it and you'll find you can similarly recreate that clunk.

If you want to do a full job on it, remove each driveshaft, and carefully check each CV joint for rotational play, turn it back and forwards and see if you can feel any movement, even a click is bad. Then remove the propshaft and do the same to the CV joints on that.

And like i say replace all the rubber mountings, as they will ALL be completely knackered.
 
aragorn said:
The problem is the way the tensioner works.

You fit the belt on all the marks, then pull the pin out of the tensioner, and it pulls all the slack out of the belt, but because theres slack in the V between the two cams, it pulls one of the cams out of position once its tensioned.

With the proper tool, you pull the cam pulleys off their tapered seat so they are free to rotate independent of the cams, and then lock the cams in place with the bar. That way, when you tension the belt, the pulleys are free to turn to let the tensioner pull up all the slack, then you tighten down the pulleys to lock everything back in place.

The engine will often run just fine with the belt out, so often folk will do what you did and not notice.
Click to expand...

The timings marks all remained totally spot on after releasing the tensioner pin. Me and a mechanic did it. Must of got really lucky when we did it.
Did you strip the engine down on that one? Did you notice the timing was out?
 
Didn't open the drivers side timing cover as that wasn't what I was after at the time, all I know is there is more slack then I want, I believe they just threw a new belt on and that's it.
This summer this cars getting some serious overhauling. New timing kit new fender fixing the rear end clunking
Everything will be addressed.
This car will ride like new when I'm done
Thanks for everything again guys

Also just dropped her off for alignment and front tire swap, god do I hate other people touching my car..... Let alone a dealership
Was hard leaving her there

On a side note my xm radio came and is mounted. Have to figure out why it's not getting power ******* German stubby 12v outlets.
And mount the antenna
 
Its probably got a weak tensioner thats maybe why it didnt move and there was some slack ?

Id be putting off any other repairs and not 'risking' it till summer as you may then just be taking the heads off for a overhaul of bent valves in the summer.
 
Bradderz_1988 said:
Its probably got a weak tensioner thats maybe why it didnt move and there was some slack ?

Id be putting off any other repairs and not 'risking' it till summer as you may then just be taking the heads off for a overhaul of bent valves in the summer.
Click to expand...
Thanks you for the motivation, I'll be ordering it next paycheck
 
I believe so.

Some companies rent the tools out, maybe if you ask on Audizine you might find someone local whos willing to rent or lend you the locking too, save you buying it?
 
audi upgrades
ideal :)

You'll need a gear puller as well to pop the pulleys off the taper but you might have one already or can get one from your local parts store.
 
audi upgrades
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Checking all bolts in the front end tomorrow as It sounds like one wasn't tightened properly when I hit bumps just right..
Am getting new rear speakers and spark plugs tomorrow
 
Lol
Indeed satellite radio, Sirius xm
I bought the radio with car docking kit for 32 and installed it, she's getting activated today=)
No more having to worry about having music on my phone or having my phone turned on for music, as I'll have that =)

Mother Nature slapped me in the face again.... Left me a bunch if snow when I wanted to go over my front end
 
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