New owner after some advice

As for the Kufatec part, yes it is a load resistor with plug and play option. Simple resistors in heat shrink tubing, with a socket and a plug.
You can get it done by yourself and much cheaper.

I’ve just fitted 50W 8Ohm resistors to each of the reverse bulbs where all other leds I have on the car are with 6Ohm resistors. Thought it will solve strobing, as more resistance is there but it didn’t.
There were also 10Ohm 50W resistors available but think now, it may do no difference.


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Read somewhere that, there was a way of recoding the ecu for different current in the particular lamp.
It should tell the computer that, there is a different current draw in that particular lamp, bulb and there was no need to send higher current pulse to test it. This could result in no strobe.

Think it was Audizine I read it and was done by two guys, with vcds and it took them some time but I think it worked for them.

Only issue here is to work out where to look for it and what coding to use.
If this could be found, it would solve all


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I was reading that post myself before ill try and find it.

I maybe getting confused here my thoughts on this were -

People generally seem to fall into two groups,
group A were they have rubbish Leds like me they throw a error on the dash and both bulbs go out

Group B were they get decent Leds that work no error on dash but strobe only when lights are switched off (this is you isnt it @KrisKrk?)

If those in group b where to do this mod when the lights are switched off the relay would be open/closed (I get confused with that bit) and the car would see the original bulbs/resistors?
 
audi upgrades
Seanchadwick2k3 said:
I was reading that post myself before ill try and find it.

I maybe getting confused here my thoughts on this were -

People generally seem to fall into two groups,
group A were they have rubbish Leds like me they throw a error on the dash and both bulbs go out

Group B were they get decent Leds that work no error on dash but strobe only when lights are switched off (this is you isnt it @KrisKrk?)

If those in group b where to do this mod when the lights are switched off the relay would be open/closed (I get confused with that bit) and the car would see the original bulbs/resistors?
Click to expand...

I do fall into that group B, yes.

If relay is wired in and lights are off, relay is open to allow ecu see the filament bulb/resistor.
When the lights are switched on, relay closes to let current to led. This disconnects current to filament bulb/resistor.
Ecu gets confused and decides to cut the power to led.
Relay opens up again allowing ecu to find filament bulb/resistor again.
Circle closed.

Just seen that video, as from your post did not work and must say, I got impressed with it even more.

Consider it as “challenge accepted”.
Will get some relays to test it.
Majority of led bulbs on my car already are wired with resistors, there would be not problem to pick one and test this theory on Audi.

Once I get the relays and wire things up, I’ll let you know.


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I can confirm that with genuine Audi number plate LEDs and the kufatec resistor cable thingy I still get the strobe effect.


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If I get chance ill do it myself too but I need to get some decent working Leds first. Are yours the panel ones with 18 leds on? Ive been through that many links I dno whats what now!
 
@Steveredman so looks like that cable just blags it so you can use any leds and it doesnt throw an error on the dash which some people have managed to avoid with cheap error free Canbus leds.

Hopefully mate a set of those leds with this relay if it works and we should be disco free!
 
Seanchadwick2k3 said:
If I get chance ill do it myself too but I need to get some decent working Leds first. Are yours the panel ones with 18 leds on? Ive been through that many links I dno whats what now!
Click to expand...

Mine are the Audi ones which appear to have 2 LEDs per unit.


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Cheers mate I need to get some ordered as im currently driving aroud with no number plate lights!
 
Last edited:
@KrisKrk this bit you said in your last post

Whenthe lights are switched on, relay closes to let current to led. This disconnects current to filament bulb/resistor.
Ecu gets confused and decides to cut the power to led.
Relay opens up again allowing ecu to find filament bulb/resistor again.
Circle closed.

This wouldnt happen to you would it because your Leds dont register as a bulb out do they? I thought it only jut the power when the dis flags up an error?
 
Seanchadwick2k3 said:
@KrisKrk this bit you said in your last post

Whenthe lights are switched on, relay closes to let current to led. This disconnects current to filament bulb/resistor.
Ecu gets confused and decides to cut the power to led.
Relay opens up again allowing ecu to find filament bulb/resistor again.
Circle closed.

This wouldnt happen to you would it because your Leds dont register as a bulb out do they? I thought it only jut the power when the dis flags up an error?
Click to expand...

This actually apply to all who got leds in their cars and fitted load resistors inline, when dis threw an error on them. Including me.
Because the led does not need as much power to light up, bulb testing pulse carries current and it makes led to light up. As it is only a split second pulse/short one, led just flashes, as supposed to come up permanently.
Filament bulb need much longer pulse to lit, as wire inside the bulb need to warm up.

I don’t remember what kind of lights I got for the number plates. They came as one unit so it just replace the whole light.
Btw, they never threw any dis error. Fitted them in and off I went.


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Last edited:
I think ive got a link to the ones you bought from one of your posts, going to return the ones I have and get the ones you have before trying this relay.
 
Before you go ordering them, let me check in the garage. I think I stilll have the ones like Kris that I took back out after about 5 minutes.
 
To bright and flashing when switched off.
This was very obvious due to how bright they were, less obvious with the genuine Audi parts.
 
Sorry, I've checked the garage and either put them somewhere really safe and can't find them, or I sent them back to the seller.
 
Ha ha I have a few things in that safe place that will never be found until you dont need whatever is there anymore!
 
Whats the deal with diagnostic software and the a6? From what I've read you need the full version of vcds to do the parking brake is that true?

Was considering going halves with me dad as he has a 2011 passat. Do we need the hex/can version? Nearly 500 squids!. Made a mess in my keks when I seen that!

I have vcds lite and a China cable I used with my old passat but it wont seem to talk to the a6 and im assuming its fue to my cable being for kline vehicles?

I also used to use torque pro with a dongle, any one have any experience with this?

I seen on eBay something called obd11 and im sure ive seen it mentioned. Is this any better than torque? Worth 50 notes?
 
I think you can do it with the Carista app and dongle, but you need the pro subscription to do it.
 
Cheers @B5NUT thats a much more reasonable price! Is that genuine ross tech?
Edit - ignore that read the page cheers

@Simon968 ive seen that name mentioned too forgot about that one will do some googling cheers
 
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Yeah. Carista can allow parking brake service and service resets. Few other tweaks can also be done.

I just got my dongle and pro subscription to clear error codes.
Also, allow to adjust headlamp beam for Europe.


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Carista dongle was £15.99 from Amazon. Pro subscription is £33.99 for 12 months with 1 month free.

I am more than happy with my leds. Only need to upgrade the interior ones and try to get rid of the flashes from external ones.


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Think I might just save the pennies and go halves on vcds then. My dad nipped around with a couple of relays and couldnt find them when he got here!
 
Well shes had her first clean by me using the meguiars deluxe kit, she needs a Polish tobget some scratches out and she needs a claying (I started doing the clay but it was too cold and the clay just stayed rock hard so ill have that one for when the weather improoves.

Only got one pic for now because my camera lense is damaged and its difficult to get a decent picture

DSC 0210 1496x842
 
Would anyone who still has the number plate festoons knocking about mind confirming what wattage they are? Also if possible stick them on a multi meter and check the resistance? I only had one working one when I switched them out with led ones but I cant seem to find the one working bulb I did have...
 
Seanchadwick2k3 said:
Would anyone who still has the number plate festoons knocking about mind confirming what wattage they are? Also if possible stick them on a multi meter and check the resistance? I only had one working one when I switched them out with led ones but I cant seem to find the one working bulb I did have...
Click to expand...

The bulb is marked as 5W, measured at 3.5ohm, which is odd as I would have expected closer to 30ohm


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@Steveredman legend! Cheers mate!


Im trying to decide what Resistor or diode to use to try and fool the hyper flash. Trying to Google it now but not sure yet.

If youve measured 3.5ohms across the bulb im guessing we either need 2 x 3.5ohm resistors or 1 7ohm.

I suppose with these lights only running off 12volts it would have to be a low number or it wouldnt light.

Ive registered for a electrical forum for some advice!
 
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I wouldn’t mind hearing what electrical pro’s can advice to our flash problem.

On another note, it is surprising how low resistance these number plate bulbs have.
If there is two of them in line, you’ll probably need 1 x 7Ohm resistor at least.


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@KrisKrk cheers mate!

Im confused.. Using a ohms law calculator a 5 watt bulb on a 12 volt circuit would have 0.416 amp draw with 28.8 ohm resistance

To replace two of those then I would need about 60 ohm resistor.

But @Steveredman has actually measured his?! Wtf...
 
Just had a thought.. The calculator gives youbthe values when the bulb has 12volts passing through it. The self check isnt going to put 12volts through otherwise the lamp would flash.

So need a 7ohm Resistor to cover the two
 
You’ll get either 6 or 8Ohm.
Found 6.8Ohm and 3.9 Ohm ones but 25watt.


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Ive found a 6.8 ohm 5 watt resistor on eBay and since my dad lost the relay he got me ill just order one.

EBay seller I got my leds from is sending me a alternative set for free so waiting for them now. Everything is coming from China though so not holding my breath!
 
Seanchadwick2k3 said:
@KrisKrk cheers mate!

Im confused.. Using a ohms law calculator a 5 watt bulb on a 12 volt circuit would have 0.416 amp draw with 28.8 ohm resistance

To replace two of those then I would need about 60 ohm resistor.

But @Steveredman has actually measured his?! Wtf...
Click to expand...

Agreed, if V=IR then I=V/R

12 / 3.5 = 3.43 Amps

3.43 Amps X 12 Volts = 41.16 Watts ???


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I am wondering if the resistance changes significantly as the filament heats up?


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I think I should connect the multimeter in line with a 12V power source and measure the current, going to try that tomorrow


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