Electrical faults, windows and central locking. :(

Darren182

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Hi all, I've got a bit of an issue with my electric windows and central locks, so the problems are, drivers door window switches not working(passenger switch working fine) when using the key to manually unlock the door it only unlocks the drivers door then when the ignition is switched on all the doors unlock, also when the key is inserted into the door manually and held over to the lock or unlock positions the windows do not open. And my remote central locking is not working on the fob.
So what I've tried to resolve the issues are,
ive had the door card off and checked the wiring loom in the door, I did have a few breaks they was re soldered back together still same faults occurred, I've checked the continuity through the loom all the way from inside the drivers foot well up to the window motor and all is fine, I've had the passenger seat out and the carpet up, no water or moisture is present and I cannot see any green on any of the plugs or in the convenience control module, I've checked my feeds and earths and can signals up to the motor and all are present, I've also had vcas connected up it would not connect to the door control module and threw up a key 1 fault. I've changed the window motor in the drivers door and still not working. I've ordered a new switch to rule that out but is there anything else it could be? Any held but be great thanks
 
pull the rubber boot between car and door
check carefully you will have broken wires
very common,
 
Already done that mate I found the earth and the small red power wires were broken I've re soldered and still the same fault
 
right reading your post i read it as you found those behind the door card
.
 
check the pins in the connector they may be all green and gummed up mine was that bad some of the pins broke off!!

you might get enough to show continuity with a multi meter but it may not be able to carry the loads required to operate the rest
 
Sorry I worded it badly,I've checked the wiring between the door and the a pillar found the broken wires and repaired still same fault
 
my next was what stu just posted
 
you will need a mirror and a torch or even remove the plug
 
Ok so I've just pulled the plug apart and ther is no green or pins broken
 
I've currently got the door stripped and the loom and plug is out of the a pillar so I've got easy access
 
I would connect it all up then check the main power cable to see if you are getting power to the door controller
 
yeah it should be close to what the battery is reading

I would do a resistance test too on the door loom while you have easy access to it
 
I don't suppose the new door control module I've fitted would need programing would it?
 
No I dont think it will

its all controlled by the central control module
 
What sort of figures would you expect to get on the resistance check?
 
now that is really a question I cant answer!
 
It's really starting to get on my nerves now, I'm a Hgv mechanic and its baffled me, I took it to my local garage and they diagnosed it at the door control unit/window motor so I've just brought one at 200 quid and it's not fixed the fault, I've herd the switches can fill with water if the window is left open so I'm goin to try that next. If that don't work then it's time for a auto electrician I think unless anyone else on here has any info.
 
Put it all back together now, when locking the car manually with the key the hazards intermittently work and also the interior light works as it should. These are all checks I've carried out by looking at other people's threads
 
All sorted now. I put a new window switch in and it's working, stripped the old switch down and the circuit board had lots of corrosion on the solder joints.
 
and that was stopping the central locking too?

****** Audi and there electrics!

glad your sorted
 
The central locking is working manually on the key, I did another full scan on vag com and I have a key 1 fault, spoke to a mate of mine and apparently it needs reprogramming I only have 1 key for the car so I'm going to get another key and have them both done.
 
have you tried inserting the key in the ignition and switching the ignition on press lock and unlock on the fob then turn it off?

this usually solves most remote problems
 
00955 key 1 is the fault it came up with.tryed a few different things to try getting it working again, new battery, disconnecting the car battery, and a few different button combos with the key in the ignition and in the drivers door lock
 
00955 - Ross-Tech Wiki

looks like it need adapting to the car again as you say

this can easily be done in VCDS the dealers will charge the earth!!

check the VCDS map to see if there is a member nearby I have VCDS and I'm in Hull yorkshire if that helps at all
 
I've herd the dealer charges 140 pound a hour. A mate of mine runs a garage called cc tuning in burton he uses vcds and I'm booked in for a remap on Thursday so ill see what he says about it.
 
ah thats not too bad then he should be able sort it for you
 
I had the same problem with mine,I had to have a new transponder on my key fob and then recoded to the car all in all it cost me 115 quid but all sorted now:thumbsup:
 
Where did u get that done mate? I forgot to ask when I had my remap.
 
If you want your immobiliser recoding go to Audi

if its just your cetral locking anywhere can do it who has vcds
 
I just took it to a local garage who specializes in audi if I remember the transponder was 58 plus vat then his time to recode.