Cambelt + Rod change question

[<tuffty/>]

Just need to get the edge of the belt on first.... it will then go on easier...

<tuffty/>

 

[Tom93]

Cant quite get the ******* :/ its ever so close just not enough

 

[<tuffty/>]

I start at the front/top, pull the belt on like 5mm onto the cam pulley then work around to the bottom... you can then 'fold' the belt on by pushing it flat to the pulley then 'roll' it on... once once that 5mm all round then work it on round the pulley..

Also... watch out for it jumping a tooth as its VERY easy for the cam pulley to roll back off its TDC mark and you will get the belt on a tooth out causing a correlation fault code that you won't get until the engine has started at least once...

Double check the marks before pulling the pin on the damper as it will be a ballache to sort after

<tuffty/>

 

[Tom93]

So i need to make sure the belt is tight across crank/water pump/cam run, before i pull the pin otherwise that could pull the cam back? Also in the amk engine is there a mark on the crank? I couldnt see one but a local mechanic said theres definately a mark on the timing cover and the harmonic balancer/ bottom pulley :/

 

[<tuffty/>]

Sorta... the belt needs to be tight from the crank pulley across the waterpump and onto the cam pulley... but its not this that cause the cam pulley to rock back...

There are timing marks as your mechanic said... with CYL 1 at physical TDC there is a notch on the harmonic damper that should line up to an indentation on the lower tin cover...

You just need to make sure the bottom end is at TDC (can be checked via the timing mark on the pulley, the mark on the flywheel and also using a stick/long screw driver through cyl 1 plug hole to determine physical TDC)

As you have fitted the head I assume you made sure the cams where set to TDC using the timing marks? I leave the cam cover off in cases like this to double check that the cam hasn't moved....

<tuffty/>

 

[Tom93]

Definately both at TDC. Also seen a video on youtube about removing the tensioner to let the pulley swing round further to get more room...

 

[Tom93]

Staying in today

 

[<tuffty/>]

Wear a hat....

<tuffty/>

 

[Tom93]

Gah this is dping my head in, been out there this morning took all the engine mount apart tried to get the tensioner off but then i realised that its way too much juggling of bits the engine mount would have to remain inside the belt run throughout the process of removing the tensioner getting the belt on and timed and then putting it back again so i dont think thats going to work. I just dont seem to ave the strength to get the belt on any other way :/

 

[Tom93]

Ok so with a little help from a mechanic mate across the road im here




Thats after being spun over twice. Can someone confirm thats right and i can pull the pin?

 

[badger5]

looks aligned

 

[Tom93]

So if that were a car you were doing youd be happy with that?..

 

[badger5]

looks aligned

 

[Tom93]

Hope so because ive pulled the pin and put the covers back on.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Soon find out... scan for fault codes after second start...

<tuffty/>

 

[Tom93]

No code after first start (shut off, removed key, reinserted key then checked codes) and sounded good. except the exhaust is blowing like ****, and its ******* all its water out, wah

 

[<tuffty/>]

from where?

<tuffty/>

 

[badger5]

Blowing, from raised insert, combiend with excessive length bolts 75mm, would be 70mm max on chinafold usually. Coolant coming from top banjo. Tight but debris around and under the washers/sealing face.

 

[Tom93]

Thanks to Bill the car is now running well ive began breaking it in. I just have a couple Q's, Im going to use the car daily and my commute is about 8 miles of dual carriage way, constant speed no load driving.

Now my question is how many miles should i put on the engine before i switch to a fully synthetic oil? Ive just done 20 miles of high load driving and the engine seems pretty happy. Should i dump the oil and do more? When can i start commuting?