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A3 1.8 20v big issues!

azzamr2 Dec 4, 2012

  1. azzamr2

    azzamr2 Member

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    hate my first post to be a technical one but hey all!

    basically my 20v wont start! put simply lol!

    have replaced crank sensor as i was lead to belive all my symptoms lead to this car cutting out not starting etc, then it just got worse and worse untill it didnt start at all!

    scanned with a Vag com and throttle position malfunction code was thrown, have no replaced the throttle body and ADP.OK is confirmed on vag com....all good no codes thrown at all now!

    BUT car still wont fire up, battery fully charged engine cranks over but doesnt fire up,

    did an ouput test to hear if the fuel pump primed and sure enough it does! so any input on this issue would be very much appreciated before i send the car off to a local specialist


    PLEASE IGNORE ALL ALARM FAULTS AND LOW SIGNAL IVE RECTIFIED THESE:



    Friday,30,November,2012,16:58:05:36856 VCDS Version: Release 11.11.4 (x64) Data version: 20120807 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Chassis Type: 8L - Audi A3/S3 Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 57 75 76 Mileage: 221710km/137764miles ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail! Part No: 06A 906 018 C Component: 1,8l R4/5V MOTR HS V04 Coding: 04000 Shop #: WSC 00000 VCID: 224B51F7AE400908171 1 Fault Found: 01165 - Throttle Body Control Module (J338) 11-00 - Control Limit Not Reached Readiness: 0010 0000 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.lbl Part No: 1J0 907 379 A Component: ABS/EDS ITTAE 20 GI V00 Coding: 03604 Shop #: WSC 06435 VCID: 2F6DA8C3ED92B46088F No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8L0-820-043-2D.lbl Part No: 8L0 820 043 B Component: A3 KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT_D72 Coding: 03141 Shop #: WSC 06313 VCID: 275D40E3C562EC2040F 1 Fault Found: 01273 - Fresh Air Blower (V2) 17-10 - Control Difference - Intermittent ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8L0-919-xxx-17.lbl Part No: 8L0 919 910 A Component: AB-KOMBIINSTR. VDO D07 Coding: 00442 Shop #: WSC 00000 VCID: 326BA1B7FEA09988E71 Subsystem 1 - Part No: IMMO Component: IDENTNR: AUZ7Z0T0021637 IMMO-IDENTNR: AUZ7Z0T0021637 1 Fault Found: 01176 - Key 07-00 - Signal too Low ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 8D0-862-257.lbl Part No: 8LO 862 257 Component: ZV-Pumpe, DWA, Funk Coding: 10056 Shop #: WSC 06317 VCID: 11290E3B5BE68290BEB 8 Faults Found: 01367 - Central Locking Pump Run Time Exceeded (Likely Leak) 35-00 - - 01371 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Driver's Side 35-00 - - 01372 - Alarm triggered by Door Contact Switch; Rear Passenger Side 35-00 - - 01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15 35-00 - - 01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring 35-00 - - 01369 - Alarm triggered by Hood Switch 35-00 - - 01368 - Alarm triggered by Luggage Compartment Switch 35-00 - - 01373 - Alarm triggered by Radio Ground Contact 35-00 - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: 4B0-951-173.lbl Part No: 8L0 951 173 Component: Innenraumueberw. D01 Coding: 00001 Shop #: WSC 00000 VCID: EED3F5C7AA187D68439 No fault code found. End ---------------------------------------------------------------------
     
  2. TDIQ

    TDIQ 8L > 8P > 8V

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    That log is very hard to read, can you attach it to your post maybe?

    It looks like it's something to do with the immobiliser:
    "Part No: IMMO Component: IDENTNR: AUZ7Z0T0021637 IMMO-IDENTNR: AUZ7Z0T0021637 1 Fault Found: 01176 - Key 07-00 - Signal too Low"

    Looks like the culprit if that car won't fire.

    Have a look at:
    01176 - Ross-Tech Wiki
     
  3. azzamr2

    azzamr2 Member

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    Na as stated above bud I've rectified this issue new battery's in the key did the trick there, sorry for it being difficult to read copy and paste never went as planned lol!
     
  4. TDIQ

    TDIQ 8L > 8P > 8V

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    The immobiliser chip in the key isn't powered. If you clear all the codes, try to start again and re-scan do any persist?

    Maybe take one of the spark plugs out and see if it's sparking?
     
  5. azzamr2

    azzamr2 Member

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    No codes are return, I will try the spark plugs tomorrow I guess I take one out plug it back into the lead and turn ignition and watch?
     
  6. Lewis583

    Lewis583 Active Member VCDS Map User

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    What brand crankshaft sensor did you use?
     
  7. azzamr2

    azzamr2 Member

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    Original Bosch
     
  8. Lewis583

    Lewis583 Active Member VCDS Map User

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    Using VCDS go into engine /measuring blocks/ then any group that shows engine rpm. Watch the rpm as you are cranking the engine over. It should show a reading. >200rpm
     
  9. azzamr2

    azzamr2 Member

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    shed some new light on the situation, wellllll i put the car onto my mom n dads smax spacker wagon, and at first still didnt start just turned over n nothing, next i pissed about with the leads pulled each one off one by one replaced ..same order ...... car started!!!

    WTF! then went through vag com looking at idle speed etc voltages blah blah all seemed fine, idles at 800rpm

    then it has a dicky fit sounded like it was running on 3 cyclinders and cut out! not started again since!
     
  10. JudderMan

    JudderMan Well-Known Member

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    Duff spark plug/lead? If it started after you man-handled them and then once running (vibrations) it fluffed on one cylinder then it sounds like a duff lead/spark plug. Maybe do a compression test on all cylinders, though, just to check.
     
  11. dancuz

    dancuz Member

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    It could be a problem with the loom? Not unheard of on these engines. Check all wiring
     
  12. azzamr2

    azzamr2 Member

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    Borrowing new leads and buying new plugs tomorrow if its leads also am luckily getting 70% off as leads aren't cheap as I've just noticed lol! Took one lead apart n cleaned up the contacts never started after that man handling either doh! This car game isn't fun anymore lol
     
  13. azzamr2

    azzamr2 Member

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    just brought some new plugs, waiting for them so another thing i can rule out then, it started this morning in the freezing ass cold but i never ran it long enough to see if it cut out!

    am really hoping its new plugs cause i dont fancy replacing the whole of the ignition coil pack leads and plugs its just racking up! had new coil pack on there in 2010 i went thru all my reciepts i had with the car which was alot to be fair its had new leads plugs etc but that was back in 2010, so the plugs are more than due to be changed i wouldve thought! this is probably my own fault of abit of neglect i must start liking this car some how lol!
     
  14. JudderMan

    JudderMan Well-Known Member

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    TBH it sounds like a duff wire either from one of the coil packs/leads or it might have just not been fitted correctly (vibrations wiggled it out hence the cut out) and now you've pushed them back in it works again. Might be wrong but hopefully that's all it is. Doesn't hurt to give it new plugs and a once-over remember 2010 was almost 3 years ago.
     
  15. azzamr2

    azzamr2 Member

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    thanks for your quick replys, itugged like a ***** to get the plug off the coil pack seem's tight but i did notice one time the car cut out that the 3rd plug wire had popped off the spark plug! ...random, another note .... should there be oil in any of the spark plug holes .... my guess is no ....new head gasket? or seals?
     
  16. Lewis583

    Lewis583 Active Member VCDS Map User

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    No there shouldn't be any. New cam cover gasket required to fix the leak.
     
  17. Lewis583

    Lewis583 Active Member VCDS Map User

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    Have you tried rescanning with VCDS since you got it running again?
     
  18. azzamr2

    azzamr2 Member

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    yeah not a single code thrown! bah! new plugs in now, started as i expected it to but, low and behold after 20 minutes not even at full temp ...cut out! do coil packs throw error codes? i took a lead off when it cut off turned the engine and got no noise from the plug or spark
     
  19. Lewis583

    Lewis583 Active Member VCDS Map User

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    It could mean the coil pack is dying. But it could also not be sparking because it doesn't know when to fire I.e camshaft/crankshaft sensor(s)/reluctor rings have issues. The only way to know for sure would be to have the sensors checked with an oscilloscope when the car won't start.
     
  20. azzamr2

    azzamr2 Member

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    Got a new crank sensor fitted on there that was first thing I changed! Fires up just doesn't last very long about 20 minutes! Just brought a new coil pack fitted tomorrow if it ain't that then lol I completely give up!
     
  21. azzamr2

    azzamr2 Member

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    right problem solved after replacing the whole ignition, plugs leads and coilpack its back to 100% health, shame it wasnt so simple to diagnose with no error codes etc! bloody cars!

    thanks everyone for your input its been more than helpful and has rectified my issues! lets hope it lasts a whole lot longer this time!
     
  22. azzamr2

    azzamr2 Member

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    To add to this that also was the background of my main problem was the fuel pump! Now replaced with a 1.8 turbo fuel pump ( I shoulda changed the engine to that as well lol) but its in fine working order now and chugging along again!
     

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