Remote power door lock problem

[ct1211]

Hi everyone! Does anyone here have a suggestion? I have a 99 A4 1.8T the remote door locks stopped working recently. I tried the reset procedure in the manual after putting new batteries in the remote and still they dont work. I have a Vag-com is it possible to look up that issue there if there is no other suggestions for a quick fix. Thanks ever so much!!
Craig

 

[ajmackie]

Does the central locking still operate on the key in the door?
If it does, then it could only be the transmitter / receiver most likely.
If it doesn't, then it could be a fuse or worse!
Depending how technically minded you are, you could check the unit in the boot. I'm not sure whether your car still has vacuum operated locks (quiet (can hear a whirry pump noise from boot when operated) and can see the lock travel smoothly up and down). Check that the vacuum hose is on correctly and all the connectors are still on. (the unit in my '95 A4 is located under the lining of the boot into the drivers side arch. If you have a multimeter and a haynes manual central locking diagram, you could try testing the voltages on each connector.

So I would firstly eliminate what is faulty.

1) Does key operate central locking - if it does the transmitter / receiver suspect
Try a different key fob and check that it is coded to vehicle
- if it doesn't, check fuses etc
if you can hear the whirring noise when you try to lock /
unlock but nothing happens, check vacuum air hoses.

I've no experience of vag-com myself, but I'm sure someone else could spread some light on that!

Let us know how you get on

 

[ct1211]

Thanks for the info. Yes i can use the locks fully with thkey in the door central lock and all. I did not think it could be a fuse, I will check that. I also have no idea where the transmitter is located. Thanks again perhpas someone has another idea!
Craig

 

[sos]

Along the same lines of this topic...can anyone help??

My central locking has stopped working, no noise from the pump etc when using the key, have changed the pump for another one, but it's still the same. All the fuses are tested ok.

Any other clues?

Cheers.

 

[ajmackie]

ct1211 - at least you now know that it can only be your remote transmitter or the receiver. The receiver is located under the rear seat. Try getting another transmitter off ebay. i doubt it will be a fuse if the central locking still works. The GOOD NEWS is that you can buy a replacement remote locking kit from Vagparts for £100. I bought one as my car didn't have remote locking as standard. It is really easy to install though! However with you have a '99, you'll prob want to get your existing remote fixed so you have the integrated key in the fob. Try putting a post on the Vagcom part of the forum.

sos - I had this problem when I incorrectly configured an aftermarket remote locking kit and it blew something. I tested every fuse and they were all okay. I then got out the Haynes manbual and studied the wiring diagram. I tested all of the voltages on the connector of the pump and found that the main power feed wasn'r present. I couldn't work out where the problem was without taking up the carpet and tracing the cables. So instead I ran my own wire from the fuse box and joined it to the connector. All works fine now!
So my advice would be to get a hanyes manual and a multimeter and check the voltages on the connector. 1 of the pins should have +12v all of the time. If you ar enot sure how to do it, I'd take it to an auto electricans. Don't bother with Audi if it's not in warranty as they'll just charge the earth by replacing the whole thing instead of just the problem!

Let us know how you get on

 

[sos]

That's great...will keep me busy tomorrow.

 

[sos]

ajmackie,

If you could tell me which lead/colour it was, it would be appreciated.


Cheers.

 

[ajmackie]

There are 3 connectors on the pump.

Connector A has 12 pins
Connector B has 6 pins
Connector C has 16 pins

A/1 - Black/Blue - 12v
B/2 - Red/Black - 12v
B/1 - Red/Blue - 12v

Each pin of the connector should be numbered. Put your multimeter on a dc voltage range and connect the negative test lead to an earth point B/3 Brown is earth but i'd rather connect it to the bolt on the top of the boot.

If you find one of these wires doesn't have 12v on and you are sure that it is the correct one (!!). Try running a fused lead (15A) straight to the pin. Under the steering part of the dash there is a bank of connectors where 12v can be sourced.

This might be your answer if central locking doesn't work at all, i.e. lock from inside or passenger or driver and totally caput!

Good luck

 

[sos]

Mmmm at trip to the auto electricians it is I think....have just applied 12v to all of the above connectors....only B was working.

Still didn't help though....

Thanks for your help though... i will pass on the info to them to give them a starting point.