KKK BV50 Turbo…

Gmac

Gmac

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Morning all,

long shot, but I’m wondering does anyone know if this turbo, specifically the VNT part can taken apart like many of the other VNT turbos? I can’t find any evidence online/YouTube etc. Many videos on other ones that are different but not this one.. Attached is a photo of mine. Started pulling off the turbo yesterday afternoon.. Was a bit trickier than it first appeared… German/polish YouTube videos just about got me there! Haha…There was a fair build up of carbon on surfaces..
IMG 3010
IMG 3009
 
Usually the vnt unit is screwed down, be careful as they've been under extreme heat, so any tension may snap them in place & it's a pain to resolve as I've been there, so lube these up numerous times before attempting to undo the screws, work screws back & forth, don't undo in one go as again the tension may snap them, then if you have a tap to suit the screws, run that through the threads to clean them before refitting.
 
NHN said:
Usually the vnt unit is screwed down, be careful as they've been under extreme heat, so any tension may snap them in place & it's a pain to resolve as I've been there, so lube these up numerous times before attempting to undo the screws, work screws back & forth, don't undo in one go as again the tension may snap them, then if you have a tap to suit the screws, run that through the threads to clean them before refitting.
Click to expand...
Yeh, thats what most of the videos online show, but there is no way of getting the top ring off on mine, (screws are underneath the outer ring) three of the paddles don’t move out of the way, therefore not allowing the ring to be lifted off. They aren’t moving because there is something specific which doesn’t allow them to turn, nothing to do with being stuck. The others move freely out of the way.
 
just clean it in the housing, the part is removable but if you manage to get it out it probably will break something ( been there done that) so this is far enough. Spray the cleaner in the splits first, than spray the whole thing... let it sit for an hour rinse with hot water, and repeat until you are satisfied it's clean enough... than try to move the mechanism by hand... it should be very easy and almost no pressure needed (it should give some resistance but not that much that it leaves an indentation in your finger tip). but since you got it open one clean probably is enough but repeat just to make sure... you don't want to be having to do this again anytime soon.

I would normally clean it with the ovencleaner 3 times in a row... just to make absolutely sure it was clean... ( it's also the reason why i ended up with a NA engined car this time around lol)
 
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As he said, but it should swivel back & forth with the lobes, something maybe is obstructing movement, debris usually, just don't snap anything ;)

Actually mines about due for a clean aswell but holding of as need to swap the head too.
 
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NHN said:
As he said, but it should swivel back & forth with the lobes, something maybe is obstructing movement, debris usually, just don't snap anything ;)
Click to expand...

This is the reason it acted up in the first place... the cleaner will eventually get to it and you'll notice those stuck lobes will start moving out of the way... after the first rinse... just don't take it apart any further and clean it again to make sure. And repeat as many times as you see fit.
 
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I put some ‘Gunk’ on it yesterday and all the lobes were moving freely, just the three of them that can’t. Having had a look online at replacement parts i can see that there are three screws from the back side, this is what i could see was stopping those three lobes moving out of the way of the ring., but I’ve no idea how one is supposed to get to those screws. The ring was moving freely enough after some gunk and a general working of the part. The Mr muscle will finish the job nicely! Thanks for tips…. I’m definitely not going to disassemble it any further!
 
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How many miles on this turbo? Doesn't look too dirty...seen a hella lot worse!
 
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@northpole i’ve not got time to get another gasket for between hot side and exhaust downpipe, what do you reckon, should be fine to reuse the gasket that was there?
 
If it hasn't lost it shape than it's fine to reuse, it is that metal thin gasket you are on about right? In my years of owning a tdi I've never replaced it. And I did the vnt cleaning every big service.
 
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Yep, that’s the one. All gone back on now. Hopefully see an improvment..fingers crossed
 
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Mate you've taken it mostly apart... it'll be spot on, no more holding back, full power restored.
 
northpole said:
Mate you've taken it mostly apart... it'll be spot on, no more holding back, full power restored.
Click to expand...
unfortunately no improvement. So the issue must lye elsewhere. Thinking perhaps boost pressure sensor maybe? I’ll try and get some live vcds logs of expected boost and actual boost. But always tricky with just me in the car haha!
 
What you didn't clean the map sensor? Yeah always clean that too... warm soapy water, rinse repeat maybe use a toothpick to clean the carbon residue off but do not spray it with any cleaner aggressive solvent cleaner or you'll remove the protective wax layer which inturn will cause an early demise to the nap sensor.
 
northpole said:
What you didn't clean the map sensor? Yeah always clean that too... warm soapy water, rinse repeat maybe use a toothpick to clean the carbon residue off but do not spray it with any cleaner aggressive solvent cleaner or you'll remove the protective wax layer which inturn will cause an early demise to the nap sensor.
Click to expand...
I didn’t because I’ve not done this before… where is the map sensor? Is this the boost sensor? And different to maf sensor?
 
Yes it is in a boostpipe just before the intake on the engine could also be on one of the intercoolers... not to sure on location as I don't have a tdi with your engine and I'm not home.at the moment to do a quick check.

But in any case it will be on one of the pipes after the turbo (cold compressed air) and before the intake on the head
 
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Quick google and it appears it’s a combined sensor with IAT (known as a thrust sensor!) and is located under the nearside headlight, so bumper and headlight off to get at it! Haha, theres a theme here.. bumper off bumper on bumper off bumper on..
 
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It gives you the chance to change those orange indicators too since you forgot them lol
 
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So … I think my problem may be with how the actuator arm, and placement of said part, has gone back on. My problem with boost lag has gotten worse since ive had the whole turbo off and back on again. I think it’s likely to be a misaligned ‘snail part’ and therefore the actuator arm isn’t where it previously was. The arm itself is a fixed rod.
I’m going to have to google how to set up the actuator correctly using vcds. I think theres a way to see what the values are. I’m sure ive previously read about them being between 20 and 80. But not too sure.
 
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bobby singh said:
I've replaced at least 3 KKK actuators with success. If you buy a actuactor whereby the positions have been set then you need VCDS to see if the movement is within range.
There are 3 bolts (10mm) which can be loosened to make these adjustments. Best to mark the old unit before removing it.

Also, the motor on the actuator can burn out if the VNT is sooted and therefore its putting extra load on the motor.
The KKK turbos are known for this issue. Most replace the actuator and find it works fine for a while as the motor is new, but then fails again.

Finally before fitting a new item mark the current position, loosen the 3 10mm bolts and move the actuator fully a few times, set back to home position and tighten the bolts.

Cheers
Click to expand...

TurboJeff said:
I set about fitting the replacement actuator last night. I set the actuator bracket.bolts to the same position as the faulty unit but when turning on the car it was showing a fault on the VCDS of electrical malfunction on the actuator again, I worked out that the position the new unit had been set at 20% and 80% was different to the old unit and the stop point on the turbo VNT arm was outside of this range. So I loosened the bolts and performed an output test on the actuator with it connected to the turbo to then get the stop points in the right place and after a few goes it was set up ok and stopped bringing the faults up on VCDS on start up.

I never actually started the car during this time just set to position 2 on the key. Once I came to start the car I found that my battery had gone flat from having my auto lights on for a few hours! I charged it up overnight and then this morning tried to start but it just turned over and wouldnt start, VCDS is showing 4 of 6 glow plugs open circuit, It already had 3 O/C but now one more must have gone dead whilst doing the actuator. It started fine last night, so guess only two glow plugs is not enough! Going to change all 6 see what happens.

Oh and my bonnet gas struct decided to loose its pants last night also, fix 1 break 2, classic Thursday Night Tuning....
Click to expand...
Found this thread about the kkk BV50, so yeh, will have to have a go with vcds tomorrow and see if i can glean anything about where the actuator and the three bolts a currently sitting.
 
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Hmmm.. rather worryingly i found this on the garage floor this morning, right under the engine …. Must have fallen from somewhere when i removed the turbo.. any ideas?
Going to try and look at a parts diagram see if that sheds any light…
 
I don't see a picture so not sure what you are talking about? it's not the little clamp that holds the actuatorrod on the VNT mechanism arm? that likes to come off if it's not pushed all the way down...
 
northpole said:
I don't see a picture so not sure what you are talking about? it's not the little clamp that holds the actuatorrod on the VNT mechanism arm? that likes to come off if it's not pushed all the way down...
Click to expand...
Oops, didn’t attach it!
here

IMG 3036
IMG 3037
 
https://superetka.com/etka/

create a new account and you'll have full access.... (TIP: open the link in a new tab and keep it open, than save it to your favorites in your browser as you'll use it more often from now on)
than use this here link it's an exploded view of your turbo in elsawin online but you'll need to be logged on in etka first (same server so uses same accounts)

yeah your welcome :D
 
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No, what i meant was i can’t find the part on any of the diagrams! Haha. Thanks though! I’ll start Using that as it looks better than 7zap. Cheers lol
 
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Gmac said:
No, what i meant was i can’t find the part on any of the diagrams! Haha. Thanks though! I’ll start Using that as it looks better than 7zap. Cheers lol
Click to expand...
Elsawin is the electronic workshop manual the dealer uses.... so you should try and go through it you'll find it in there.
 
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