Fault Code Reappearing

rraghvani

Whoever does not try, does not learn.
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Having not driven the car for a while, ABS, ESP and Red Brake symbol appeared when engine was started. Replaced the old battery with a new one and all faults were cleared. However, I keep getting the following faults appearing which I'm unable to resolve.

Any help would be appreciated.

Code:
Tuesday,30,October,2018,20:43:02:06092
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 7 x64
VCDS Version: 18.9.0.2 (x64)
Data version: 20180927 DS296.0
www.Ross-Tech.com

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chassis Type: 8L (8L - Audi A3/S3 (1997 > 2005))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 57 75 76
VIN: WAUZZZ8L931204596   
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine        Labels: 06A-906-032-BAM.lbl
   Part No: 8N0 906 018 BH
   Component: 1.8L R4/5VT     G   0001 
   Coding: 10710
   Shop #: WSC 02629 
   VCID: 78FFC92B58C4878AED-5140
   WAUZZZ8L931204596     AUZ7Z0B2120938

1 Fault Found:
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus
            P1649 - 35-10 - Missing Message from ABS Controller - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 8N0-907-379-MK20-E.clb
   Part No: 8N0 907 379 E
   Component: ESP     20    CAN  V005   
   Coding: 18448
   Shop #: WSC 01236 
   VCID: 3E731F333A6079BAE7-4B04

2 Faults Found:
65535 - Internal Control Module Memory Error
            00-00 -  -
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
            49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 22: AWD        Labels: 02D-900-554.lbl
   Part No: 02D 900 554 C
   Component: HALDEX LSC  ECC     0010 
   VCID: 204FC14BA0D42F4AF5-4B04

1 Fault Found:
01316 - ABS Control Module
            49-00 - No Communications

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 03:43)--------------------------
 
Hi there,


I've just found this thread. Did you manage to resolve this?

I'm having the same codes come up!
 
Hi,

After doing a lot of research, it seems like the ABS Controller is knackered and the fault can not be cleared with vag com. I've removed my ABS Unit and will be sending the ABS Controller to a company called http://www.bba-reman.com (recommended by Audi Epsom), who hopefully should be able to repair it, fingers crossed.
 
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Hi,

After doing a lot of research, it seems like the ABS Controller is knackered and the fault can not be cleared with vag com. I've removed my ABS Unit and will be sending the ABS Controller to a company called http://www.bba-reman.com (recommended by Audi Epsom), who hopefully should be able to repair it, fingers crossed.
Let me know how you get on.

Im beginning to think after all my diagnostics that my module is dodgy too.

Be interesting to see what the cars like once the unit comes back
 
Hi All,

I've managed to source a second hand one from eBay, which I've tested, just needed to be reprogrammed and the steering wheel sensor needs to be re-calibrated. I'm not looking forward to brake bleeding :(

By the way, are you AntonS38l on forums.ross-tech.com?
 
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Hi All,

I've managed to source a second hand one from eBay, which I've tested, just needed to be reprogrammed and the steering wheel sensor needs to be re-calibrated. I'm not looking forward to brake bleeding :(

By the way, are you AntonS38l on forums.ross-tech.com?


I was wandering how you had got on. I've double checked a wiring diagram my friend pulled off of all data which shows I have power in the right places. I suspect like you, the module has ____ itself

You can change just the module, although it looks a fiddly job. I think it's some E sockets

I've just been driving around without abs for the last few days

Yes that's me
 
I ended up buying the whole unit for around £20 from eBay; bought a TX star socket set from ScrewFix and flare spanner from Halfords. I had to remove the entire unit from my car, it's fairly easy and you will lose brake fluid.

I've had to removed the ABS Controller from the aluminium block, just so that I can test it out, i.e. to make sure there's not fault codes or issues with the controller - for £20 I wasn't expecting it to work! I'm hoping this weekend, if it doesn't rain, to fit it all in - with the second hand ABS Controller (bottom left) and my original aluminium block with pump.

Plus I still need to post my unit off.

ABS Controller
 
Last edited:
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I ended up buying the whole unit for around £20 from eBay; bought a TX star socket set from ScrewFix and flare spanner from Halfords. I had to remove the entire unit from my car, it's fairly easy and you will lose brake fluid.

I've had to removed the ABS Controller from the aluminium block, just so that I can test it out, i.e. to make sure there's not fault codes or issues with the controller - for £20 I wasn't expecting it to work! I'm hoping this weekend, if it doesn't rain, to fit it all in - with the second hand ABS Controller (bottom left) and my original aluminium block with pump.

Plus I still need to post my unit off.

View attachment 191344


Did you manage to recode the s/h unit OK?
This was going to be my next step. It's just that the car has frustrated me recently so I couldn't be bothered lol.

In theory it's a fairly cheap fix for a relatively annoying issue.
 
Hi,

Just a quick update - I've installed the second hand ABS unit in my car, it's been reprogrammed and I had to re-calibrate the steering wheel sensor using vag-com. There's no fault codes appearing, which I'm really happy about. I had to brake bleed my car twice, brakes are not perfect, which is something that I need to look into. Seems like a common problem on VAG's.
 
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Hi,

Just a quick update - I've installed the second hand ABS unit in my car, it's been reprogrammed and I had to re-calibrate the steering wheel sensor using vag-com. There's no fault codes appearing, which I'm really happy about. I had to brake bleed my car twice, brakes are not perfect, which is something that I need to look into. Seems like a common problem on VAG's.
Did you bleed the brakes with vcds?

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
Did you bleed the master cylinder using the two bleed nipples on it?

<tuffty/>
 
Hi,

Just a quick update - I've installed the second hand ABS unit in my car, it's been reprogrammed and I had to re-calibrate the steering wheel sensor using vag-com. There's no fault codes appearing, which I'm really happy about. I had to brake bleed my car twice, brakes are not perfect, which is something that I need to look into. Seems like a common problem on VAG's.
Have you sent your other one off to bba ramen yet if not try this link much cheaper https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/293063773836 fixed my absolutely controller good as gold now.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
I haven't sent of the old unit to BBA Reman yet - just a bit lazy! I'll have a look at that repair service, thanks.

Vag-com as in VCDS

Master cylinder has been bleed (plus clutch), along with ABS unit and each brake calipers. When the engine is switched off, pressing the brake pedal a few times, it becomes firm, until it can't be pressed anymore. This implies that there's no air in the brake lines which can be compressed. However, when the engine is switched on, I have to press the brake pedal, about an inch of travel for the brakes to bite! This leads me to thinking there's an issue with the brake servo. I know the vacuum pipe to brake servo cracks, and I'll be testing for leaks this weekend.
 
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if the servo is leaking vacuum the pedal will go hard like it does when you pump the pedal with the engine off... this does not mean there is no air in the lines... this is just how the brake servo works...

As mentioned you need to use VCDS to cycle the ABS pump while bleeding to ensure that all the air in the valves is moved on... this is not something that needs doing everytime you change the fluid but is something that needs doing if you introduce air into the lines up stream of the ABS pump like when the ABS pump is replaced or the master cylinder is replaced etc to ensure any trapped air bubbles are removed

<tuffty/>
 
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Hi Tuffy,

The second time I did the brake bleeding, I used VCDS to cycle the ABS Unit as I had air trapped in it, and the pedal felt a lot better second time round. I use a pressure bleeder and one-way valve tubing - just can't figure out why it will take an inch of travel for the brakes to bite!
 
Never known an 8L pedal not to have a bit of travel tbh...

Standard brake calipers?

<tuffty/>
 
Yep, all standard brake calipers. It's been like this for several years, and I can't remember how they were before - before I started fixing my car.

I think I'll need to test the brake pedals on another car!?
 
Yep, all standard brake calipers. It's been like this for several years, and I can't remember how they were before - before I started fixing my car.

I think I'll need to test the brake pedals on another car!?
The same here just felt different after I fixed it as I forgot to check it before the fix but it's all working fine now.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
When I got my brembo calipers on we bleed the system by me pumping the pedal a few times while the mechanic bleed each caliper and my breaks have been fine since fitting.
I know people will say you will wreck the master cylinder but it worked fine for me.
 
When I got my brembo calipers on we bleed the system by me pumping the pedal a few times while the mechanic bleed each caliper and my breaks have been fine since fitting.
I know people will say you will wreck the master cylinder but it worked fine for me.
It's usually a two man job where the abs has been removed a combination of vcds. pedal pumping. and bleeding valves. as long as the bleed Lines are submerged in a container a brake fluid I didn't need a non-return valve.and of course the self bleeding top up the flush all the fluid out completely then left it for a while and repeated the process

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
pumping the pedal should be ok... its the letting it down to the floor part that seems to cause issues (seals can catch the drillings in the cylinder potentially damaging the seal lips)... tbh not actually had the issue or seen the issue first hand so there could well be a little internet myth involved but pressure bleeding with the odd pedal pump should be fine

<tuffty/>
 
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pumping the pedal should be ok... its the letting it down to the floor part that seems to cause issues (seals can catch the drillings in the cylinder potentially damaging the seal lips)... tbh not actually had the issue or seen the issue first hand so there could well be a little internet myth involved but pressure bleeding with the odd pedal pump should be fine

<tuffty/>
not a myth.
I did this to my mk4 when I had it
 
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